ACL

ACL (pronounced eh-see-elle)

The abbreviation for anterior cruciate ligament, one of a pair of cruciate ligaments in the human knee.

1887 (in Italian); early 20^th century (in English): The construct was anterior + cruciate + ligament. Anterior was from the Latin anterior (that is before, foremost).  Cruciate was from the Latin cruciatus, the perfect passive participle of cruciō, from crux (cross).  Ligament was from the Middle English ligament, from the Latin ligāmentum, from ligō (tie, bind).  The vital but unexciting body part sounds much better if spoken in other European languages including Portuguese (ligamento cruzado anterior), Spanish (ligamento cruzado anterior), Catalan (lligament encreuat anterior), French (ligament croisé antérieur) and especially Italian (legamento crociato anteriore).  Anterior cruciate ligament is a noun; the noun plural is anterior cruciate ligaments.

In the world of acronyms and abbreviations, there are literally dozens of other ACLs including the American Classical League which promotes the study of Antiquity and the classics, the Association for Computational Linguistics, a professional organization for those working on natural language processing, the Australian Christian Lobby, a right wing Christian pressure group which disapproves of the last three centuries-odd, the Access Control List, an element in computer security, ACL2, a modular software noted for its theorem prover, as code ACL, Akar-Bale language, an extinct Great Andamanese language (ISO (International Standard) 639-3), allowable combat load, in military aviation, the inventory of weapons system for which an airframe is rated and the wonderful anthroponotic cutaneous leishmaniasis, a form of Old World cutaneous leishmaniasis, usually with a prolonged incubation period and confined to urban areas.

The long and painful history of the anterior cruciate ligament

Ligaments of the right knee.

Descriptions of the anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) appear in some surviving medical texts from Antiquity, the earliest known reference thought to be in the drawings of the physician Galen (Claudius Galenus or Aelius Galenus; 129-216) although he made no mention of injuries associated with this body part, the aspect for which it’s now best known although there is evidence of corrective surgery being undertaken in Ancient Egypt.  Presumably, during the many centuries when falling from horses was far from uncommon, such injuries were frequent but because neither surgical correction nor sophisticated rehabilitation regimes had evolved, victims had to suffer or perhaps retire from more rigorous pursuits.  The Irish surgeon Robert Adams (1791-1875) in 1837 noted a clinical case of an ACL tear but in an age when treatments rightly were conservative because the risk death from any surgical intervention was high, Dr Adams’ report was purely observational.  The literature was augmented in 1850 by the Scottish GP (family doctor) James Stark (1811-1890) who published two cases of cruciate tears, describing the different manifestations of knee instability in patients with damaged ACLs but the first record of ACL repair was an operation performed in 1895 by the English surgeon Sir Arthur Mayo-Robson (1853-1933).  The early approach was the use of primary open sutures but while this produced good initial results, decoration was rapid.  No substantive improvements in method were reported so the suturing approach was abandoned and the profession turned to reconstruction.

Lindsay Lohan's knees.

The Russian-born surgeon Ivan Grekov (1867-1934) is credited with having in 1914 been the first to adopt the use of autologous tissue (of cells or tissues obtained from the same individual) for ACL rupture reconstruction in 1914, the technique also documented by the English professor of orthopaedic surgery, Ernest Hey Groves (1872-1944) who performed a number of procedures between 1917-1920.  The Hey Groves approach is strikingly modern and essentially the technique used today but the efficacy clearly wasn’t understood because in the following decades what the historians describe as “…a period of startling ingenuity which created an amazing variety of different surgical procedures often based more on surgical fashion and the absence of a satisfactory alternative than any indication that continued refinements were leading to improved results.  It is hence not surprising that real inventors were forgotten, good ideas discarded and untried surgical methods adopted with uncritical enthusiasm only to be set aside without further explanation.”  That to some extent may explain why ACL reconstructions became rare and it wasn’t until the 1970s when, as the implications of broadcasting allowed professional sport to become a multi-billion dollar industry that with sports medicine becoming a mainstream medical discipline that the operation became common; it was certainly a common injury.  Still, innovation continued and just as there was experimentation with xenografts (tissue graft taken from a species different from that of the recipient.) & allografts (a tissue graft between genetically different individuals of the same species) before the autologous prevailed.  Even synthetic graft materials enjoyed some popularity in the 1980 and 1990s, apparently because in laboratory testing artificial ligaments appeared to be more durable and better able to withstand stresses and strains; real-world experience proved otherwise.

Torn ACL: Exactly what it says.

The increasing participation of female participation in elite-level (often professional) sports such as the various football codes and basketball has in recent years seen a striking rise in ACL injuries.  While to reported volume of incidents is still less than those suffered in gymnastics, long the most common source, it’s in these team sports where the rate of increase has been greatest.  Although the male & female knee look much the same, the physiological differences exist and, given there are differences between almost every human cell which is in some way specifically male or female, that shouldn’t be surprising.  Anatomists note certain structural divergences such as those in the alignment of the leg & pelvis and the muscular protection of the knee joint, added to which the hormone estrogen is known to influence all ligaments but probably of greater consequence are the variations in neuromuscular behavior which human movement studies have documented.  Essentially, these focus on the different positions of the knee and the upper body (compared to the typical male) and a striking predilection when landing to apportion most weight to one rather than both feet.  Theories have been offered to account for this but the most obvious consequence is that the forces generated by landing are less absorbed by the foot and lower leg muscles (analogous with the “crumple-zones” in modern automobiles), meaning a higher proportion of the stress impacts upon the ACL of the “landing knee”.  Added to this, because the typical female tends to land with the upper body tilted to the side of the “landing knee”, this imposes a greater rotational force on the ACL at the same time a vertical impact is being absorbed.  This crucial aspect of behavior is known as the “ankle-dominant strategy”

Some novel research however emerged in 2024 and it may be a candidate for one of the ten Ig Nobel Prizes, awarded annual by the Annals of Improbable Research (AIR) to acknowledge “unusual or trivial achievements in scientific research”.  What the study hypothesized was there might be a link between the sports bras and ACL injuries.  Impressionistically, the connection is not immediately obvious and what the researchers found was not, as might be imagined, simply a product of weight distribution and the effective “multiplier effect” of mass in movement, the further it is from the pivot point, illustrated by the recommendations provided for placing weight in trailers when being towed.  The physics of both are presumably vaguely similar but the interplay of factors relating to women's ACL injuries seems to be more complex. 

Lindsay Lohan in "low-impact" sports bra.

It transpires the multiplier effect of the upper-body mass wasn’t the issue.  What the international team of experts in biomechanics and sports medicine did was study 35 female recreational athletes, finding that the more supportive were the sports bras (the so-called “high-impact” designs), the greater the decrease in the common risk factors associated with ACL injuries, the “knee flexion angles” reducing, meaning the knee didn't have to bend as much on landing.  Additionally, there was a reduction in “dynamic knee valgus”, the knee moving inwards from the foot, something of mechanical significance because females tend to have more inward collapsing knees (increased dynamic knee valgus) during landing activities.  Dynamically, what the study revealed was that when there was no or only minimal breast support, the greater was the tendency to adopt the “ankle-dominant strategy” which had the effect of transferring the stress to the knee and thus the ACL.

Bravissimo Ultra-Perform High-Impact sports bra in grey & pink.

By contrast, when wearing a high-impact sports bra, females Used a more “hip-dominant” strategy which puts less strain on the ACL.  The mechanics of the “hip-dominant” approach is that the trunk moves less, making pelvic control easier the “…movement patterns at the trunk, pelvis and lower extremities… all connected.”  The study was published in the Journal of Applied Biometrics and the study cohort of 35 included women with bra cup sizes between B & D, the findings suggesting the larger the cup size, the higher the risk of traumatic knee injury although, perhaps counter-intuitively, the researchers weren’t prepared to say that “…definitively say breast size drives injury risk…” because (1) it was a small number of participants in the study and (2) there are “…so many differences in movement patterns from person to person.”  In the spirit of good research, one reviewer noted the study “…scratches the surface…" of an area that needs “…further investigation.” 

Comfyorthopedic telescopic hinged Knee brace for post surgery rehabilitation.

Human movement studies have a long history but the bulk of the research has been on men and the presence of breasts is the most obvious difference in the bio-mechanics of movement and something which might yet have implications not yet understood.  The physics of it is breasts move up and down and side-to-side during exercise and in a sixty minute session of running, they can bounce in a figure-eight pattern some 10,000 times.  Traditionally, for the sports bra manufacturers the focus in advertizing has been on comfort but there are also performance effects which at the elite level can be vital because the difference between success and failure can be measured in thousands of a second and fractions of an inch.  The appropriate bra can actually reduce oxygen consumption when running which translates into running economy (the distance traveled per volume of oxygen consumed) and the oxygen can be better used by the brain and muscles; also, if the breast movement minimized, the strides become longer, another aspect of economy.  Those matters were known but the apparent explanation of the wrong choice of sports bra being a factor in the higher incidence of ACL injuries in women is something new.

Abrosexual

Abrosexual (pronounced ab-ruh-seks-uhl (U) or ab-roh-sek-shoo-uhl (non-U))

Describing, noting, acknowledging or relating to a person whose sexual orientation is fluid and may from time to time fluctuate.

2013: The construct was abro- + sexual.  Abro- was not a standard suffix but was an adaptation of the Ancient Greek ἁβρός (feminine ἁβρᾱ́, neuter ἁβρόν) (habrós) (graceful, delicate, pretty) which scholars of the Classics note appeared usually in verse (though never in epic poetry) and was rare in early texts written in prose.  In abrosexual it was used in the sense of “graceful, delicate, pretty” (presumably because in Antiquity it was used especially of the human body) but originally it could also describe something splendid in appearance, an elegance of style or (often in a derogatory manner), dainty, luxurious or effete, thus the transferred sense of “delicate”, applied often to those from the Orient.  The construct of abrosexual appears one of English’s linguistic novelties and is unrelated to abrogate (now best known from the use in administrative law) which, dating from 1526, was from the Middle English abrogat (abolished), from the Latin abrogātus, the perfect passive participle of abrogō (repeal), the construct being ab (away) + rogō (ask, inquire, propose).

The word –sexual was a noun or adjective describing a state or style of sexuality, the construct being sex + -ual.  Sex was from the Middle English sexe (gender), from the Old French sexe (genitals; gender), from the Latin sexus (gender; gender traits; males or females; genitals), from the Proto-Italic seksus, from the primitive Indo-European séksus, from sek- (to cut, cut off, sever), thus the meaning “section, division (into male and female)”.  The use as it applied to women was influenced by the Middle French le sexe (women), traces of this development noted in the late sixteenth century.  The usage for third and additional sexes was calqued from the French troisième sexe (third gender), which was applied first to “masculine women” in 1817 and male homosexuals in 1847 (the first such reference in English apparently to in reference to Catholic clergy, a theme which continues, one of the internal criticisms of the Roman Curia (the Holy See’s ecclesiastical cum bureaucratic apparatus, the establishment which runs the Vatican) that it is a “gay cabal”.  Perhaps surprisingly, the use of the word “sex” to describe “sexual intercourse” seems not to have appeared in print until 1899 when was used in that context in HG Wells’ (1866-1946 and a noted proponent of “free love”) novel Love and Mr Lewisham; obviously an abbreviation rather than a euphemism and etymologists presume the use would for some time have been “verbal shorthand” in oral use.  Modernity arrived in 1929 when DH Lawrence (1885–1930) introduced the phrase “have sex” to idiomatic English; it caught on.  The –ual suffix was a back-formation from Latin adjectives ending in –uālis (formed from fourth-declension nouns suffixed with –ālis) and an alternative form of –al.  Abrosexual is an adjective and a (non-standard) noun; the noun plural is abrosexuals.  The companion word is the (non-standard) abroromantic.

Abrosexual seems first to have appeared on-line in 2013 but interest has recently spiked for reasons not immediately clear, sexual fluidity hardly a new idea; the current feeling seems to be it has become increasingly popular as a form of self-identification, one which has the advantage of infinite variability (no consistency demanded).  One early criticism of the word was it was unnecessary because the “P” in the LGBTQQIAAOP glossary referred to “pansexual” (those attracted to a person because of their personality; sex and gender both irrelevant) which seemed to cover the behavior.  The difference however is that pansexuality is a permanent state whereas abrosexuality is an identity in which orientation may shift, the implication presumably that whatever might be the orientation to which one has shifted, as long as it lasts, it is exclusive although how that maps onto some states has never been explained.  For example, a bisexual may be attracted almost exclusively to one gender and may then shift to favor almost exclusively the other: is that an example of fluidity within the rubric of bisexuality, an instance of abrosexuality or both.  In other words, must the shift be only between the LGBTQQIAAOP categories or can it also refer to degrees of intensity, a definitional puzzle complicated further by the multisexual umbrella which covers those whose preference span a number of categories.

The Abrosexual Pride flag.

The annual Abrosexual Pride Day is 2 July and of course, by definition, abrosexuals are not restricted to than one celebration.  An asexual might mark International Asexuality Day on 6 April and then shift to become a lesbian, thus enjoying also Lesbian Visibility Day on 26 April, Lesbian Day on 8 October and Coming Out Day 72 hours later.  There is also an acknowledged abrosexual flag although the origin of the design is contested as is the meaning represented by the choice of colors; the most popular suggestion being green signaling queer attraction, the fade to and from white the effortless transition and the pink the actual shift.  The hues are those of a watermelon, the use of which is analogous with the contemporary use of the N-word which is permissible only by (certain) people of color (PoC) in that it should be spoken only by those who identify was abrosexual, use by others a slur or micro-aggression depending on context.  It's not the first time "watermelon" has been co-opted: in Thailand the word is used to describe soldiers who are "green on the outside, red on the inside", the reference being to (1) the green military fatigues they wear and (2) red being the color of the political opposition (the establishment using the yellow of the royal family).  So abrosexuality is a permanent state of orientational flux.  Even if one switches from one to another only once in one’s life, one remains at least a latent abrosexual, however much one may rationalize such things as “just a phase” because the modern politics of sexuality are predicated on the “born like this” paradigm; the shifts inherent in abrosexuality are an inherent part of one and not a lifestyle choice like becoming a vegan or joining the Freemasons.  Phases might exist but they’re part of the whole and all are equally authentic but abrosexual doesn't belong in the LGBTQQIAAOP glossary; it is a process, not a category.

Just a phase: Lindsay Lohan with former special friend Samantha Ronson.

There are however those who have suggested such things could be a purely situational occurrence; a thing of time and place.  Interviewed in January 2018, Lindsay Lohan was asked about if she considered herself “sexually fluid” to which she responded with an unambiguous “No, I definitely like men”.  Probed further about her sometimes tempestuous relationship with former special friend Samantha Ronson she seemed amused and replied “I was living in LA.  I'm not saying it's a bad thing…” and that expanded a little on her observation in 2013: “I know I’m straight. I have made out with girls before, and I had a relationship with a girl.  But I think I needed to experience that and I think I was looking for something different.”  She concluded her 2018 comments by noting she was “having a break from relationships at the moment… not forever, but just for now."  In Ms Lohan’s case the fondness for women may just have been an “LA induced” phase and (now a married mother) she’s permanently straight but “not forever, but just for now” is the essence of abrosexuality.

Velvet

Velvet (pronounced vel-vit)

(1) A fabric fashioned from silk with a thick, soft pile formed of loops of the warp thread either cut at the outer end or left uncut.

(2) In modern use, a fabric emulating in texture and appearance the silk original and made from nylon, acetate, rayon etc, sometimes having a cotton backing.

(3) Something likened to the fabric velvet, an allusion to appearance, softness or texture,

(4) The soft, deciduous covering of a growing antler.

(5) In informal use (often as “in velvet” or “in the velvet”), a very pleasant, luxurious, desirable situation.

(6) In slang, money gained through gambling; winnings (mostly US, now less common).

(7) In financial trading, clear gain or profit, especially when more than anticipated; a windfall profit.

(8) In mixology, as “Black Velvet”, a cocktail of champagne & stout (also made with dark, heavy beers).

(9) A female chinchilla; a sow.

(10) An item of clothing made from velvet (in modern use also of similar synthetics).

(11) In drug slang, the drug dextromethorphan.

(12) To cover something with velvet; to cover something with something of a covering of a similar texture.

(13) In cooking, to coat raw meat in starch, then in oil, preparatory to frying.

(14) To remove the velvet from a deer's antlers.

1275–1325: From the Middle English velvet, velwet, veluet, welwet, velvette, felwet veluet & veluwet, from the Old Occitan veluet, from the Old French veluotte, from the Medieval Latin villutittus or villūtus (literally shaggy cloth), from the classical Latin villus (nap of cloth, shaggy hair, tuft of hair), from velu (hairy) and cognate with French velours.  The Latin villus is though probably a dialectal variant of vellus (fleece), from the primitive Indo-European wel-no-, a suffixed form of uelh- (to strike).  Velvet is a noun, verb & adjective, velvetlike & velvety are adjectives, velveting & velveted are verbs & adjective; the noun plural is velvets.

The noun velveteen was coined in 1776 to describe one of first the imitation (made with cotton rather than silk) velvets commercially to be marketed at scale; the suffix –een was a special use of the diminutive suffix (borrowed from the Irish –in (used also –ine) which was used to form the diminutives of nouns in Hiberno-English).  In commercial use, it referred to products which were imitations of something rather than smaller.  The adjective velvety emerged in the early eighteenth century, later augmented by velvetiness.  In idiomatic use, the “velvet glove” implies someone or something is being treated with gentleness or caution.  When used as “iron fist in a velvet glove”, it suggests strength or determination (and the implication of threat) behind a gentle appearance or demeanor.  “Velvet” in general is often applied wherever the need exists to covey the idea of “to soften; to mitigate” and is the word used when a cat retracts its claws.  The adjective “velvety” can be used of anything smooth and the choice between it and forms like “buttery”, “silky”, “creamy” et al is just a matter of the image one wishes to summon.  The particular instance “Velvet Revolution” (Sametová revoluce in Czech) refers to the peaceful transition of power in what was then Czechoslovakia, occurring from in late 1989 in the wake of the fall of Berlin Wall.  Despite being partially in the Balkans, the transition from communism to democracy was achieved almost wholly without outbreaks of violence (in the Balkans it rare for much of note to happen without violence).

Ten years after: Lindsay Lohan in black velvet, London, January 2013 (left) and in pink velour tracksuit, Dubai, January 2023 (right).

The fabrics velvet and velour can look similar but they differ in composition.  Velvet historically was made with silk thread and was characterized by a dense pile, created by the rendering of evenly distributed loops on the surface.  There are now velvets made from cotton, polyester or other blends and its construction lends it a smooth, plush texture appearance, something often finished with a sheen or luster.  A popular modern variation is “crushed velvet”, achieved by twisting the fabric while wet which produces a crumpled and crushed look although the effect can be realized also by pressing the pile of fabric in a different direction.  It’s unusual in that object with most fabric is to avoid a “crumpled” look but crushed velvet is admired because of the way it shimmers as the light plays upon the variations in the texture.  The crushing process doesn’t alter the silky feel because of the dense pile and the fineness of the fibers.  Velour typically is made from knit fabrics such as cotton or polyester and is best known for its stretchiness which makes its suitable for many purposes including sportswear and upholstery.  Except in some specialized types, the pile is less dense than velvet (a consequence of the knitted construction) and while it can be made with a slight shine, usually the appearance tends to be matte.  Velour is used for casula clothing, tracksuits & sweatshirts and it’s hard-wearing properties mean it’s often used for upholstery and before the techniques emerged to permit vinyl to be close to indistinguishable from leather, it was often used by car manufacturers as a more luxurious to vinyl.  The noun velour (historically also as velure & velours) dates from 1706 and was from the French velours (velvet), from the Old French velor, an alteration of velos (velvet) from the same Latin sources as “velvet”.

US and European visions of luxury: 1974 Cadillac Fleetwood Talisman in velour (top left), 1977 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham in leather (top right), 1978 Mercedes-Benz 450 SEL 6.9 in velour (bottom left) & 1979 Mercedes-Benz 450 SEL 6.9 in leather (bottom right).  Whether in velour or leather, the European approach in the era was more restrained. 

In car interiors, the golden age of velour began in the US in the early 1970s and lasted almost two decades, the increasingly plush interiors characterized by tufting and lurid colors.  Chrysler in the era made a selling point of their “rich, Corinthian leather” but the extravagant velour interiors were both more distinctive and emblematic of the era, the material stretching sometimes from floor to roof (the cars were often labeled “Broughams”).  The dismissive phrase used of the 1970s was “the decade style forgot” and that applied to clothes and interior decorating but the interior designs Detroit used on their cars shouldn’t be forgotten and while the polyester-rich cabins (at the time too, on the more expensive models one’s feet literally could sink into the deep pile carpet) were never the fire-risk comedians claimed, many other criticisms were justified.  Cotton-based velour had for decades been used by the manufacturers but the advent of mass-produced, polyester velour came at a time when “authenticity” didn’t enjoy the lure of today and the space age lent the attractiveness of modernity to plastics and faux wood, faux leather and faux velvet were suddenly an acceptable way to “tart up” the otherwise ordinary.  At the top end of the market, although the real things were still sometimes used, even in that segment soft, pillowy, tufted velour was a popular choice.

1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham D'Elegance in velour (left) and a "low-rider" in velour (right).  The Cadillac is trimmed in a color which in slang came to be known as "bordello red".  Because of changing tastes, manufacturers no longer build cars with interiors which resemble a caricature of a mid-priced brothel but the tradition has been maintained (and developed) by the "low-rider" community, a sub-culture with specific tastes. 

At the time, the interiors were thought by buyers to convey “money” and the designers took to velour because the nature of the material allowed so many techniques cheaply to be deployed.  Compared with achieving a similar look in leather, the cost was low, the material cost (both velour and the passing underneath or behind) close to marginal and the designers slapped on pleats, distinctive (and deliberately obvious) stitching, extra stuffing, the stuff covering seats, door panels, and headliners, augmented with details like recessed buttons, leather grab-handles and the off chrome accent (often anodized plastic).  By the 1980s, velour had descended to the lower-priced product lines and this was at a time when the upper end of the market increasingly was turning to cars from European manufacturers, notably Mercedes-Benz and BMW, both of which equipped almost all their flagships destined for the US market with leather and real wood.

The Velvet Underground with Nico (Christa Päffgen; 1938–1988) while part of Andy Warhol’s (1928-1987) multimedia road-show The Exploding Plastic Inevitable (1966-1967 and known briefly as “The Erupting Plastic Inevitable” or The Exploding Plastic Invisible).  Unusually, the acronym EPI never caught on.

The (posthumously) influential US rock band The Velvet Underground gained their name from a book with that title, published in 1963, the year before their original formation although it wouldn’t be until 1965 the band settled on the name.  The book was by journalist Michael Leigh (1901-1963) and it detailed the variety of “aberrant sexual practices” in the country and is notable as one of the first non-academic texts to explore what was classified as paraphilia (the sexual attraction to inanimate objects, now usually called Objectum Sexuality (OS) or objectum romanticism (OR) (both often clipped to "objectum")).  Leigh took a journalistic approach to the topic which focused on what was done, by whom and the ways and means by which those with “aberrant sexual interests” achieved and maintained contact.  The author little disguised his distaste for much about what he wrote.  The rock band’s most notable output came in four albums (The Velvet Underground & Nico (1967), White Light/White Heat (1968), The Velvet Underground (1969) & Loaded (1970)) which enjoyed neither critical approval nor commercial success but by the late 1970s, in the wake of punk and the new wave, their work was acknowledged as seminal and their influence has been more enduring than many which were for most of the late twentieth century more highly regarded.

Veblen

Veblen (pronounced vebluhn)

A product (a good) for which demand increases as the price increases, an anomaly in the classical laws of demand in the science of economics.

1899: The name is from the author, US economist and sociologist Thorstein Veblen (1857–1929); his observation was first mentioned in his book The Theory of the Leisure Class (1899).

Hermes Pink Ostrich Handbag.

The Veblen effect is one aspect of conspicuous consumption; it describes individual or corporate spending of money on goods and services for the purpose of displaying their financial resources, usually as a means to manifest social power and prestige.  It's related to the dealer's saying in the antique business: "If something doesn't sell, keep putting up the price until it does".  As a phenomenon the behavior obviously pre-dates social media but TikTok, Instagram and such have proved the ideal platform for both the flaunting of wealth and faking it.  Veblen goods are those which (at least to a certain point), behave differently from the classic demand curve of orthodox economics in that demand for them rises as the price increases.  They are usually luxury products (a thing something inherently a product of their price) but there are cases where transitory shortages not always directly related to cost can create scarcity and thus a desirably; the diabetes drug Ozempic which is used by those attracted to its appetite-suppressing side effect is an example.  The retail price at which most luxury goods are sold can contradict classic economic theory as demand, instead of increasing with a decrease in price, follows the opposite curve although the demand curve does not increase indefinitely with the price.  Once a certain threshold has been reached, demand will drop or fall away completely but the propensity to purchase goods and services on account of the higher rather than lower price differential compared to average prices in a generic category is one of the principal characteristics of the luxury domain.  

Lindsay Lohan with Hermes Pink Ostrich Birkin, London, 2017.

One interesting reaction by manufacturers or retailers to a price threshold being reached (at which point demand begins to fall), is artificially to create an impression of a supply-side shortage.  When it appears a price-point is exceeding what even conspicuous consumers will pay for a certain handbag, manufacturers sometimes claim they’re limited-production items available only to selected clients.  This is rarely true, the handbag being just another part-number, manufacturers producing as many as required to meet demand.  Economists provide some nuance to the Veblen effect by noting the influence of what they call “income and substitution effects”.  The income effect suggests that as the price of a Veblen good rises, individuals with higher incomes may actually experience an increase in real income (since they can still afford the more expensive item) and therefore demand more of the luxury item; the substitution effect is overridden by the desire for the specific status or prestige associated with the higher-priced item.  The professionals also caution the Veblen effect is not universal and both between and within cultures it can’t be relied upon always to appear as some manufacturers and retailers has discovered.

Purple

Purple (pronounced pur-puhl)

(1) Any color having components of both red and blue (often highly saturated), the darker the hue, the more likely to be described thus.

(2) In color theory, any non-spectral color on the line of purples on a color chromaticity diagram or a color wheel between violet and red.

(3) A dye or pigment producing such a colour

(4) Cloth or clothing of this hue, especially as formerly worn distinctively by persons of imperial, royal, or other high rank.

(5) In the Roman Catholic Church, a term at various times used to describe a monsignor, bishop or cardinal (or their office), now most associated with the rank, office or authority of a cardinal.

(6) Imperial, regal, or princely in rank or position.

(7) Any of several nymphalid butterflies including the red-spotted purple and the banded purple)

(8) Of or pertaining to the color purple (or certain things regarded as purple).

(9) In writing, showy or overwrought; exaggerated use of literary devices and effects; marked by excessively ornate rhetoric (purpureal).

(10) In language, profane or shocking; swearing.

(11) In modern politics, relating to or noting political or ideological diversity (in the US based on the blending of Democrat (blue) and Republican (red); in other places red & blue indicate different places on the political spectrum).

(12) In drug slang; the purple haze cultivar of cannabis in the kush family, either pure or mixed with others, or by extension any variety of smoked marijuana (“purple haze” a popular name for commercially available weed in those places where such thing are lawful.  Purple haze was originally slang for LSD.

(13) In agriculture, earcockle, a disease of wheat.

(14) To make or become purple (or, in ecclesiastical use, to put on one’s purple vestments) .

Pre 1000: From the Middle English noun and adjective purple, purpel & purpur, from Old English purpuren & purpul, a dissimilation (first recorded in Northumbrian, in the Lindisfarne gospel) of purpure (purple dye, a purple garment), from the adjective purpuren (purple; dyed or colored purple), from purpura (a kind of shellfish, Any of various species of molluscs from which Tyrian purple dye was obtained, especially the common dog whelk; the dye; cloth so dyed; splendid attire generally), from the Ancient Greek πορφύρα (porphýra or porphura) (the purple fish (Murex)), perhaps of Semitic origin.  Purpur continued as a parallel form until the fifteenth century and was maintained in the rules of heraldry until well into the nineteenth.  The verb purple (to tinge or stain with purple) was from the noun and emerged circa 1400.  The earlier form was purpured, a past-participle adjective.  The adjective purplish (somewhat purple, tending to purple) was from the noun and dates from the 1560s.  Purple is a noun, verb & adjective, purpled & purpling are verbs, purplish, purpler, purply & purplest are adjectives and purpleness is a noun; the noun plural is purples.

The rhetorical use in reference to “the splendid; the gaudy” began as a description of garments (classically imperial regalia) and since the mid-eighteenth century, as “purple prose” of writing.  In US political discourse and commentary, purple has since been used (often in graphical or cartographic form) to indicating the sectional or geographical spaces in which the increasing division of the country into red (Republican) and blue (Democratic) was less apparent.  That this came into widespread use only by around 2004 is because the use of red & blue by the US news media became (more or less) standardized only by the 1990s, use have begun circa 1980, something without any relationship to the linking of the colors (red=left; blue=right) traditional in other parts of the English-speaking world.  One curiosity is the shade of purple known as magenta: It was so called because the dye of theat shade was created at the time of the Battle of Magenta (1559) in which the French and Sardinians defeated the Austrians.  Purple is widely used in zoology and botany to create common names of species to some extent colored purple.

Purple patch: 1970 Dodge Challenger (440 Six-Pack) in Plum Crazy (left) and 1971 Plymouth Hemi ‘Cuda in In Violet) (clone; right).  Chrysler had some history in the coining of fanciful names for colors dating from the psychedelic era of the late 1960s when the choices included Plum Crazy, In-Violet, Tor Red, Sub Lime, Sassy Grass, Panther Pink, Moulin Rouge, Top Banana, Lemon Twist & Citron Yella.  Although it may be an industry myth, the story told was that Plum Crazy & In-Violet (lurid shades of purple) were late additions because the killjoy board refused to sign-off on Statutory Grape.  The lurid colors soon disappeared, not only because fashions change but because at the time they depended on the use of lead which was banned from paint in the early 1970s.  Not until the early twenty-first century did manufacturers perfect ways economically to replicate the earlier colors without using lead. 

In idiomatic use, purple is popular.  One “born into the purple” was literally one of royal or exalted birth although it’s now often used even of those from families somewhere in the upper middle class.  The “purple death” was hospital slang for Spanish influenza and it was an allusion to the cyanosis which, because of the difficulty breathing, which would turn the skin purple.  In the early post-war years “purple death” was also used to describe a cheap Italian wine.   The phrase “once in a purple moon” was a variation of “once in a blue moon” and some dictionaries include an entry, apparently only for the purpose of assuring us that not only is it extinct but it may never have been in common use.  “Purple bacteria” (the form only ever used in the plural) are a proteobacteria which produce their own food using photosynthesis; they are all classed as purple, even though some are orange, red or brown.  In the analogue-era world of the phone phreaks (hackers who used the telephone networks for other than the intended purpose), a “purple box” was a device which added a hold facility to a telephone line.  It was an allusion to the general term “black box” used in engineering and electronics to describe small devices with specific purposes; not all “purple boxes” were actually purple.  “Purple gas” was a Canadian term which described the gas (motor spirit; petrol) colored with a purple dye to indicate it was sold subject to a lower rate of taxation and for use only in agriculture and not on public roads.  Anyone found using “purple gas” beyond a farm could be charged and many countries use similar methods though the dye is not always purple.  “Purple gold” was a synonym of amethyst gold (a brittle alloy of gold and aluminium, purple in colour).

1994 Porsche 911 Turbo 3.6  (964) in Amethyst Metallic over Classic Gray.

A “purple passage” (also as “purple prose”) was any form of writing thought showy or overwrought, using an exaggerated array of literary devices and effects or marked by excessively ornate rhetoric.  It was a criticism but the later “purple patch” which describes any particular good period or performance (in any context) was wholly positive.  The “purple pill” was an advertising slogan used by a pharmaceutical company but unlike “little blue pill” (Viagra), it never entered the vernacular.  “Purple plague” has specific meanings in chemistry and electronics (relating to a chemical reaction which produces an undesirable purple compound) but a more amusing use is by Roman Catholic bishops noting a unwanted number of monsignors (who wear a purple sash) in their dioceses, sent there by the Vatican.  In US politics a “purple state” is a “swing state”, one which, depending on this and that, may vote either Republican (red) or Democrat (blue).  The “purple star” was the symbol worn by Jehovah's Witnesses in concentration camps in Nazi Germany (1933-1945), one of a number of color-coded patches, the best-known of which was the yellow Jewish star.  The Jehovah's Witnesses were an interesting case in that uniquely among the camp inmates, they could at any time leave if they were prepared to sign a declaration denying their religious beliefs.  In international air-traffic management, a “purple zone” (also “purple airway”) describes a route reserved for an aircraft on which a member of a royal family is flying.  In US military use, the “Purple Heart” dating from 1932, is still awarded to service personnel wounded in combat.  It’s origin was a decoration in purple cloth first awarded in 1782 which came to be known as the “wound stripe”.  In the mid 1960s, “purple haze” was slang for LSD; it was later repurposed for various strains of weed.

Lindsay Lohan, admirer of all things purple.

The dye tyrian purple (all the evidence suggests it would now be thought a crimson), was produced around Tyre and was prized as dye for royal garments, hence the figurative use in the sixteenth century of purple for “imperial or regal power” (it was also the color of mourning or penitence among royalty or the upper reaches of the clergy).  Tyrian purple (also known as shellfish purple) was for long periods the most expensive substance in Antiquity (often (by weight) three times the value of gold, the exchange rate set by a Roman edict issued in 301 AD.  By the fifteenth century when the intricate process to extract and process the dye was lost, Tyrian purple had for millennia been variously a symbol of strength, sovereignty and money and its use had spread from the Classical world to Southern Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia and was so associated with the civilization of the Phoenicians (the color named after their city-state Tyre) that they were known as the “purple people”.  What many didn’t know was that the dye associated with the illustrious came not from a gemstone or some vivid coral but from the slimy mucous of sea snails in the Murex family.  Debate continues about what must have been the process used in extraction and production although, given many factories and artisans were involved over the years, there may have been many variations of the method.

It was in 1453 when the Byzantine capital Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul) fell to the Ottomans that the knowledge of Tyrian purple was lost, something of a footnote to the end of the Eastern Roman Empire but still a loss.  Then, the infamously smelly dyeworks of the old city were the hub of purple production although, after a series of punitive taxes, the Catholic Church had lost control of the pigment which is the origin of the pope’s decision that red would become the new symbol of Christian power and this was adopted for the garb of cardinals; the story that the vivid red symbolized the blood cardinals mush be prepared to spill in the defense of their pope was just a cover story although one obviously approved of by the pontiff.

Beginning in 1968 with Shades of Deep Purple (left), the rock band Deep Purple sometimes used purple-themed album cover art and may have wished they'd stuck with that their eponymous third album (1969).  The original cover (centre), featuring a fragment of one panel of the triptych The Garden of Earthly Delights (1490-1510) by Hieronymus Bosch (circa 1450-1516), was declared "demonic" by the US distributors so an alternative needed hastily be arranged and whether because of the tight schedule or just wanting to play it safe, they stuck to purple (right).  They'd earlier had a similar difficulty with their US label when releasing their second album (The Book of Taliesyn (1968)), the objection that time that one song title (Wring That Neck) was "too violent" (it was an instrumental piece and the reference was to a technique used with the neck of a guitar but it was anyway changed to Hard Road).  Times have changed.

Pyjamas

Pyjamas or Pajamas (pronounced puh-jah-muhz or Puh-jam-uhz)

(1) Night clothes, consisting usually of loose-fitting trousers and jacket.

(2) Loose-fitting trousers, usually of silk or cotton, worn by both sexes in Asia, especially in the East.

1799:  The plural of pyjama, a Hindi variant of pāyjāma, from the Persian paejamah (leg clothing); construct being pāy & pae (leg) from the primitive Indo-European root ped-(foot) + jāma or jāmah (garment).  The early forms were pajamahs & pai jamahs (loose trousers tied at the waist) describing the style worn by Muslims in India and adopted by Europeans, especially for nightwear.  Under the Raj, a variety of spellings in English were noted including pai jamahs (1800); pigammahs (1834), peijammahs (1840) and interestingly, none were geographically specific.  The modern US spelling was almost universal there by 1845; pyjamaed and pyjama are the adjectives, both rare.

Lindsay Lohan in pyjamas, The Canyons (IFC Films, 2013)

Under the Raj, the British adopted many local customs, including a fondness for the Sharia Courts where colonial administrators found it much easier to be granted a divorce than under English law, English judges usually as tiresome as English wives.  The traditional clothing of India, known as angarakha and suthan provided the model for the early forms of pyjamas and pai jamahs, worn by Muslims in India, soon found British favour, both as nightwear and comfortable clothing in the hotter months.  Pajamas, the modern spelling, was a US invention from 1845; British spelling is now split between that and pyjamas with the US form becoming more common.  Pyjamas, both word and garment, spread from the Raj to the wider Western world during the Victorian era, becoming fashionable sleeping attire for men circa 1870.  Unsuccessfully introduced in England in the early 1800s as lounging attire, they were re-branded as mogul's breeches when they were referred to with that term in The Fair Maid of the Inn but soon fell from fashion. Their popularity from the 1870s followed them being marketed as simple, functional, convenient nightwear.

The comedy The Fair Maid of the Inn was an early seventeenth century stage play attributed to the Jacobean playwright John Fletcher (1579–1625).  It was originally published in the first Beaumont and Fletcher folio (1647) although uncertainties have always surrounded the work’s date and even authorship, making it among the most widely disputed works in English Renaissance drama.  Fletcher is remembered for his many collaborations with the dramatist Francis Beaumont (circa 1585-1616), the two working together for almost a decade.  Whether it was true or bitchy theatre gossip, the legend was the two men lived together, sharing clothes (possibly pyjamas) and having "one wench in the house between them."  A "wench" could of course be a housemaid there to do the cooking & cleaning and such or she may have included "added value" services.  If ever it existed, this modern-sounding domestic arrangement was sundered upon Beaumont's marriage in 1613 and their professional partnership ended after he suffered a stroke later that year.

Pink pots & pans.  Paris Hilton (b 1981, left) and her mother Kathy Hilton (b 1959) in Christmas themed pyjamas, promoting Paris' new line of kitchenware, December 2022.