1570–1580: From the Middle French chapin, from the Old Spanish chapín (type of high shoe or clog, raised by means of a cork sole), from chapa (plate of metal), the construct being chap(a) (from the Middle French chape) + -in (the adjectival suffix). The original, the Old Spanish chapín, was probably imitative of the sound made by the shoe when walking. Dictionaries note a number of cognates of chopine including choppins & chapiney but, as might be imagined, it must have been a word in limited use (by cobblers, fashionistas etc) because there are no entries for the word (or similar forms such as cioppino or choppino) in English / Italian dictionaries of the late sixteenth or early seventeenth centuries; perhaps it was at the time: "The shoe that dare not speak its name". It's possible the equivalent in Renaissance Italian was zoccolo (familiar as the English plural "clogs") which may come from the Italian zocco (stump or block of wood) but adding to the murkiness, in one English / Italian dictionary, the word chopinos appears in the definition of the plural zoccoli. Chopine is a noun; the noun plural is chopines.

Portrait de Chopin en Dante (drawing of Chopin as Dante, 1849),
graphite pencil on paper by Eugène Delacroix (1798–1863), Eugène Delacroix
National Museum, the Louvre, Paris.
Inscribed Cher Chopin (Dear
Chopin), the drawing is believed to have been sketched on 31 October, 1849,
upon the artist learning of the composer's death some two weeks earlier. It remained in Delacroix's bedroom until his
death. Unfortunately,
chopiner is not an English noun
meaning “one who makes or wears chopines” but a French verb meaning “to drink
to excess” while the English adjective Chopinian carries the sense “of or
pertaining to the Polish composer & virtuoso pianist Frédéric Chopin
(1810-1849)”. A macabre footnote in
Chopin's story is that Hans Frank (1900–1946; Nazi lawyer and governor of the
General Government (1939-1945) in German-occupied Poland during World War II),
whose rule in Nazi-occupied Poland was an appalling and bloody tale of corruption
and depravity, when on trial for war crimes and crimes against humanity, in
all seriousness (as an experienced trial lawyer) offered in mitigation for his
conduct the fact he'd established in Kraków a Chopin Museum, something he
noted: “the
Poles had never managed to do”.
The belated attempt at redemption came apparently at the instigation of Dr
Joseph Goebbels (1897-1945; Nazi Minister of Public Enlightenment and
Propaganda 1933-1945) who, although as evil as any of the Nazis, was at least
clear-headed enough to understand carrots were in occupied territories at least
as useful as sticks.

Acting
under instruction from Berlin, Frank’s regime actively had attempted to eradicate
Polish culture and while his methods were never subtle, the worst excesses included
mass-murder of “the intelligentsia” (writers, artists, journalists, academics,
priests etc) but the governor-general, bizarrely, had a personal obsession with
Chopin, based on a genuine fondness for the music and many had been drawn to
what been described as its “quasi-improvised” quality; the French composer
Georges Bizet (1838–1875) spoke of Chopin’s work as “…charming, strange, unique, inimitable”. Frank too clearly was charmed but understood
the long dead composer would need to be “Germanized” to be acceptable in the Third Reich
(1933-1945), taking measures such as spelling his name in a Germanic-sounding “Schopping” and banning performances of
his compositions for Polish audiences.
The centrepiece of this improbable Nazi attempt at cult-creation was
what Frank called the “temporary” Chopin Museum in his official headquarters at
Wawel Castle in Kraków, a permanent structure to be erected once Germany had
won the war. In typical Nazi style,
Frank dispatched his (by then well-experienced) agents to loot occupied Europe
for Chopin artifacts, manuscripts, letters, death masks and memorabilia, managing
to acquire (ie steal) even an original Pleyel grand piano that had belonged to the
composer. Despite that interest, in May
1940 he had made only a token attempt to prevent the destruction of the famous
bronze Chopin Monument in Warsaw's Łazienki Park, the 16-ton statue cut into
pieces and melted down for the benefit of the German war machine.

Dame Laura Knight’s large canvas The Nuremberg Trial, 1946, now hangs in the Imperial War Museum in London and is one of the most re-produced images from the trial. An unusual blend of two aspects of realism achieved by a juxtaposition of defendants in the dock and a devastated Nuremberg cityscape (including corpses), the artist did change a few details to suit her didactic purposes, Hans Frank seated not in his usual place but at the painting’s bottom-right, presumably better to show the wrists damaged by a failed suicide attempt. In court, Frank wore gloves to conceal the effect but these Dame Laura choose to remove. Curiously for such an accomplished artist, some of the likenesses achieved of those in the dock are not impressive but it remains one of the trial’s most memorable images, despite at the time being received by the critical establishment without enthusiasm.
Sketch of Frank in the dock by New Zealand-born political cartoonist David Low (1891-1963).
For the
museum’s opening ceremony, Frank personally selected Ludmilla Berkwic (1910–2005), a
fine Polish concert pianist and piano teacher who, on Chopin’s Pleyel, preformed
several pieces for an audience of high-ranking Nazis, the recital very
well-received. Unfortunately, Frank’s
staff hadn’t dug too deep and what they failed to detect was that Ms Berkwic had
since the start of the war being living under false papers because her father's
family was Jewish. That might have gone
undetected were it not for Dr Goebbels having arranged for the performance to be filmed
and, in an attempt to show how benign was Nazi rule in Poland, distributed throughout Europe on propaganda newsreels. By
1943 he probably realized that might be a futile project but his energy for the Sisyphean task never waned. However, an unexpected
consequence of the publicity was it prompted one of Ms Berkwic’s jealous rivals
to denounce her for having Jewish heritage. That forced her and her mother to obtain from
the Polish Underground new sets of forged papers and, strange as it sounds,
they fled to Germany where they could be absorbed into the millions of captive
Polish workers. Hiding, as it were, “in
plain sight”, she survived the war working in a munitions factory and in 1947 emigrated
to the US, setting in New York. Frank’s
gesture did not make much impression on the judges of the IMT (International
Military Tribunal) sitting for the first Nuremberg Trial (1945-1946): They
convicted him on counts three (war crimes) and four (crimes against humanity)
and handed down a sentence of death by hanging.
As a trained lawyer, Frank was at least a realist, the prison
psychologist recording that when asked his reaction to the verdict, Frank had
smiled when answering: “I deserved it and I expected it.” Unlike the most recalcitrant of the
defendants, he seemed aware too of the magnitude of the crimes being tried,
admitting: “A
thousand years will pass and still this guilt of Germany will not have been
erased.” Some of what Frank
stole for “his” Chopin Museum was recovered and today, the most comprehensive
collection of the composer's memorabilia is housed in the official Fryderyk
Chopin Museum in Warsaw, established in 1954 and operated by the Fryderyk
Chopin Institute.
The ultimate platform shoe
How they worked. Chopines were a kind of wonder bra for the feet. Chopines
began as a purely functional device; a means of raising women’s shoes and the
hems of their dresses above the dirt and filth in which they were often
compelled to walk; in the age of horse-drawn transport, streets sometimes were "rivers of blood, mud and horseshit". It's said the chopines were brought to Europe by traders from the Ottoman Empire where they'd been worn in bath houses by concubines, courtesans and others, the speculation being they were originally a modestly proportioned device designed as a health measure, a means of protecting the feet from infection, bath houses being warm, dark and moist, the perfect incubation environment for bacteria. As sometimes happens, they became
a status symbol with prestige determined by their elevation, the tallest extant examples reaching 20 inches (508 mm) although some historians claim they were built as much as ten inches (254 mm) higher. Students of the art suspect that if true, such things may have been constructed for shop-window displays rather than being worn because at that height they're really "stilts". Beyond a certain height, practicality (ie stability) would certainly have become marginal but there's evidence highly stylized examples were worn outside the bath house on ceremonial occasions, the wearer presumably "mostly static". Chopines were most popular in Spain and Italy in the late sixteenth century and when they spread to England, they were sometimes referred to as "the Venice" because of the perception that was their city of origin, a notion that seems to have arisen because of their mention in widely-read travel journals of the age; Venice was a popular destination for such travellers. Their impracticality must have made them a niche item because they never became part of any defined English costume or style of dress but whether alpha-males objected to women suddenly appearing taller is lost to history.

Variations on a theme of chopine.
As
shoes, they had a short life because their sheer size dictated they be made
from lightweight materials like cork and wood although some surviving examples do have a metal
framework. The style, in a less extreme
form, was briefly revived with the cork-soled platform soles of the 1970s which
had the effect of creating a short-lived investment bubble in the Portuguese
cork industry although, as economic theory would predict, as the craze faded a Portuguese "cork glut" saw prices collapse. The
absurdity of the style attracted the attention of writers:
"It is ridiculous to see how these ladies crawl in
and out of their gondolas, by reason of their choppines [clogs]; and what
dwarfs they appear when taken down from their wooden scaffolds; of these I saw
nearly thirty together, stalking half as high again as the rest of the world." (John Evelyn, diary entry, June 1645)
"By'r lady, your ladyship is nearer to heaven than
when I saw you last by the altitude of a chopine." (Hamlet,
act 2 scene 2, William Shakespeare, 1602)
"He creaked to and fro, tiptoing up nearer heaven
by the altitude of a chopine... "(Ulysses, James Joyce, 1922).
Continuing the chopine tradition but with rather less elevation: Lindsay Lohan in Saint Laurent Billy leopard-print platform boots, New York, March 2019.
Shoes have
not since ascended to the heights of the chopines but the attractions of
elevation have endured. The lovely
elegance of a five-inch stiletto heel of course remains incomparable but while
as a piece of design they’re there to be admired, at a certain point a stiletto
becomes unstable. As a piece of math, heel
stability can be reduced to about as complex a problem in mechanics as one
cares to make it, the significant variables being the heel height, heel-tip
area, shoe geometry, the wearer’s centre of mass, foot position, ground
reaction force, and the stiffness of the shoe & ankle as an encapsulated system. So, the “tipping / stability problem” can be conceptualized
(even if individual human variations make it difficult to produce a simple
model) and the basic idea is that when standing, ground exerts a “vertical
ground-reaction force” through the foot; if the shoe is stable, resultant force
falls within the “support polygon” (essentially the area defined by the heel
and forefoot contact points). As a
general principle, a shoe’s sole being broad and long (thereby distributing
forces over a large contact area), what is critical is the heel, a structure
with a much smaller contact area.
Essentially, the remains stable as long as pressure doesn't move beyond
the available support area.

Saint Laurent Billy leopard-print platform boots from the Pre-
Fall 2018 collection. The large contact area of the kitten heel and height of the sole means stability is achieved but the style does
demand some practice because one's "walking technique would need slightly to be adjusted.
However, the
slenderness of the stiletto operates as a multiplier effect, the heel height
changes the geometry of the entire foot, not merely the size of the heel. As the heel’s height increases, the foot shifts
into plantar flexion causing a movement of the upper body, meaning the centre
of mass relative to the heel changes.
For any given individual, with enough data points quantified, it would
be possible to produce an equation that would find a “point of optimal
stability” before increasing a heel's height induces “tipping”. Beyond the “tipping point”, a shoe ceases to
be neutrally stable and achieving a static equilibrium isn't possible without
muscular compensation or movement. That
can be modelled in software but the practical complication is a human is not a
rigid object standing atop an always flat, unmoving surface, ankle, foot and leg continually make
corrections, often so minute and instinctive they’re imperceptible to the owner
of those body parts. Thus, a stiletto
can statically be geometrically stable yet dynamically unstable. That’s why heel-tip
diameter is so critical in achieving stability and to illustrate that, imagine an example demonstrating not all four-inch (100 mm) stilettos have the same
intrinsic stability. Consider two
otherwise identical 100 mm stilettos, one with an 8-mm heel tip, one with 20-mm,
the latter allowing a greater movement of the centre of pressure before the
ground-reaction force reaches the edge of the heel. Math nerds can no doubt run the numbers and
what they’d find is the intriguing result that doubling the heel height roughly
halves the angular tolerance, while doubling heel-tip radius roughly doubles
it. Women used to stilettos of course
don’t need an equation to tell them a shoe with an extremely narrow, high heel
has a very small stability envelope; the "heelprint" is a vital part of the "footprint".

Lindsay Lohan in Christian Louboutin Madame
Butterfly black bow
platform booties with six-inch (150 mm) stiletto heel. What the elevated sole does is change the foot's angle, meaning a similar stability is attained as would be achieved with a 100 heel used in conjunction with a conventional sole.
Hence the
frequent use of thicker soles and while opinion can be divided on the look, the
elevated platform mechanically is interesting because it allows the heel to be
higher while keeping the foot at a less extreme angle; it’s a fudge and not
always admired by those for whom the acute angle of the wearer’s foot is one of
the most alluring aspects of the stiletto’s aesthetic but if done well, it can
be pleasing; it’s not the classic look but needs to be judged on its own
terms. An example of the math is one of
differentiation: A 120-mm heel with a 30-mm platform doesn't behave like a 120-mm heel on a flat platform; because of the additional height in the sole, the effective
pitch (and thus stability) will be something like a shoe with a 90-mm heel and
conventional sole. Engineers call this the TBA (true biomechanical angle) and in the practical mechanics of the human foot it's of significance because the foot safely can tolerate only a certain maximum angle of incline angle before the ankle undergoes structural plantarflexion failure (where the foot is extended so straight the ankle loses all lateral muscle control). All this was once a
rarely explored exercise in equation-making because shoe designers could tell
by looking at design whether it would be practical to wear; they didn’t need
the math. Engineers building humanoid
robots did however need to do the sums even though they could, if need be, emulate millions of years of evolution and make feet and ankles more accommodating. As the recent Humanoid Robot Olympics
(August 2026) in Beijing demonstrated, the billions of dollars invested under the watchful
eye of the CCP (Chinese Communist Party) must have resulted in many correct
calculations because what was achieved was impressive (including breaking the world record for the men's 100 metre sprint). While the CCP surely is interested more in robots
for factories and the military than “making a better stiletto”, it’s not
impossible a Chinese scientist might gain a Ig Nobel Prize by publishing a
by-product of humanoid robot research: the equation for the “perfectly stable
stiletto”, designers able to “plug-in” their angles and dimensions meaning the “stability
threshold” ceases to be theoretical and becomes just another metric.

Flamingo's Exotic Dancer's boots in baby pink are an example of what can be done if one can cast adrift what's possible from the moorings of what's practical. Available in calf (left), ankle (centre) and thigh (right) length in a variety of heel and sole heights, there's both a commonality of design elements and interchangeability of components, meaning a high degree of production-line rationalization, making the range economic to produce. It should be noted "exotic dancer" is a vocational euphemism so the target market is limited but there may be some demand from non-professionals who can see the potential for "home use".
Style by
necessity, Paris circa 1942: The chopine's methods of construction and use of materials staged a partial comeback in occupied
France (1940-1944). The sculptured heel
both lent style and reduced weight.
Wartime shortages of leather forced French
cobblers to turn to more readily available materials such as wood or cork when
repairing or replacing heels and soles and the improvisation quickly became characteristic
of French footwear during the Nazi Occupation. Of course, being French, mere functionalism
wasn’t enough and identifiable styles emerged, creating a unique “fashion
language”; in other words, a fine example of wartime
necessity becoming fashion. Supplies of
leather for civilian consumer goods greatly were restricted in many countries
during wartime but in places subject to Nazi occupation the deprivations were
most severe with the German war machine absorbing the bulk of what was
available. Consequently, French
shoemakers increasingly substituted wood, cork, textile, straw and whatever artificial
materials could be adapted or re-cycled with wooden clogs becoming a common
sight.

Constructed on a wooden sole & heel with
a raffia upper, the shoe is embellished with a polka-dot ribbon, the only
leather component two small cuts for the contact areas of the sole and heel,
covered with re-cycled material. Although
a product of necessity, the raffia/word combo does sometimes appear still in
modern catalogues and, of course, polka-dots never really go out of style. So,
material supply was a problem but if anything that may have encouraged
designers to explore the possibilities offered by materials not previously
exploited. Rather than simply forming
blocks of wood or cork into a simple wedge that would have “done the
job”, the photographic record makes clear women were wearing raised soles (some
quite substantial platforms) and sculptural heels, some as extravagant as was
possible within the limitations imposed and augmenting this, ribbons provided
considerable scope for decorative variation; in a quirk of the wartime
economy, ribbons were for some time among the few materials not subject to rationing. Cobblers proved imaginative and French
commerce rose to the occasion, shoe shops developing a fashion vocabulary: semelles compensées (platform/wedge
soles) and semelles articulées
(articulated soles) among the coinings.

Semelles articulées, Paris, circa 1942. The look was soon in vogue. The articulated
creations were ingenious attempts to make wooden soles flexible enough for
walking and while it was not possible wholly to emulate the behavior of leather, there
were partial solutions, one using thin wooden strips and in 1941 there was the
more intricate Smelflex in which the articulation interacted with laminated or
hinged sections of wood; with dark irony, the occupying authorities noted the system
was derived from a German patent. In an
example of the way in which populations adapt to circumstances, the look became
a recognised fashion phenomenon of Occupation-era France and designers made no
attempt to disguise their creations as leather, the wooden soles and heels
presented explicitly as a blend of “ingenuity and Parisian elegance.” In an amusing footnote, the shortage of
leather and metal did answer the many pre-war complaints about the trend for extremely
high, thin talons-échasses (stilt
heels) that much pleased the men as they gazed at their drawing boards in
Parisian fashion houses but were far from comfortable to wear for much beyond a
photo-shoot for a glossy magazine.

Mr Putin
(Vladimir Vladimirovich Putin; b 1952; president or prime minister of Russia
since 1999, left) with Xi Jinping (b 1953; General Secretary of the CCP
(Chinese Communist Party) and paramount leader of the PRC (People's Republic of
China) since 2012, right) (far left), Carla Bruni-Sarközy de Nagy-Bocsa (b
1967, left) and her husband Nicolas Sarközy (b 1955; President of France
2007-2012, right) (centre left), Marco Rubio (b 1971; US secretary of state
since 2025) (centre right) and how it's done (far right).
In politics, the chopine lives on in the form of "elevator shoes" that can "add" as much a four inches (100 mm) to an individual's height through the mechanism of the "built-up" internal heel. Politicians are known to wear them including Mr Putin, Mr Sarközy and Mr Rubio, indeed the latter's use of the shoes was exploited by Donald Trump (b 1946; POTUS 2017-2021 and since 2025) who coined "little Marco" as his opponent's moniker during the 2016 Republican presidential debates although that use is in abeyance while they maintain their at least temporary friendship. As the elevation increases it's obviously necessary also to add to the upper so (1) the trick is concealed and (2) the ankle retains some lateral support; that's why many elevator shoes are really "elevator boots". Either way, they work best if trousers are cut accordingly; done well, worn by a well practiced wearer, they should be unobtrusive unless closely inspected.