Bikini

Bikini (pronounced bih-kee-nee

(1) A two-piece bathing suit for women.

(2) A style of brief fitted low on the hip or slightly below.

(3) The name of an atoll in the North Pacific; one of the Marshall Islands and the site of two-dozen odd US nuclear weapon tests between 1946-1958 (with initial capital).

(4) As Bikini State, the UK Ministry of Defence's alert state indicator (1970-2006).

(5) In the retail coffee trade, barista slang applied to smaller variations such as a demitasse (or demi-tasse (half cup), used traditionally to serve espresso).

1946:  Although known as the Eschscholtz Atoll until 1946, the modern English name is derived from the German colonial name Bikini, adopted while part of German New Guinea and was a transliteration from the Marshallese Pikinni (pʲi͡ɯɡɯ͡inʲːi), a construct of Pik (surface) + ni (coconut or surface of coconuts).  Bikini is a noun & proper noun; the noun plural is bikinis. 

Proliferation; variations on the theme of bikini

Bikinis: Lindsay Lohan with former special friend Samantha Ronson (both with bare feet), Los Cabos, Mexico, October 2007.

The swimwear was first so named in 1946, the brief as a stand-alone garment adopting the term in 1960 while the trikini, dating from 1967, was a variation with separate bra cups fastened by Velcro.  A lack of structural integrity doomed the design for the mass-market but trikinis continue to be used by the fashion industry, mostly in static photography where movement is minimalized.  Trikini was at the time etymologically wrong because falsely it presumed bikini a compound with a bi prefix, an assumption not unreasonable because the English prefix bi is derived from the Classical Latin bi, which, like the Ancient Greek counterpart di, means “two”.  However, trikini is now etymologically correct because (1) bikini and its variations have been wholly been absorbed into English with compounds coined as needed and (2) progress in the fashion industry proved so prolific a new suffix (apparently first suggested by US author Bill Safire (1929–2009)), emerged: -kini.  Thus far seen have been:

Monokini (a one-piece swimsuit)

Bikini (a two-piece swimsuit with top & bottom)

Trikini (a type swimsuit which uses three, strategic-placed fabric triangles)

Facekini (a piece of swimwear worn on the head and covering the face and head)

Burkini (a full body bathing suit which includes a hood; a kind of figure-hugging Burqa for swimming of which not all muftis & mullahs (and certainly no ayatollahs) approve)

Mankini (a kind of sling bikini for men)

Bandkini (a swimsuit consisting of strapless bandeau top and bikini bottom)

Halterkini (a swimsuit consisting of halter top and bikini bottom)

Tankini (a bathing suit composed of tank top and the lower half of a bikini)

Skirtini (a two-piece swimsuit consisting of top and short, skirted bottom)

Microkini (a very skimpy bikini)

Slingkini (a one-piece swimsuit resembling the Y-shape frame of a slingshot which is supported by fabric at the neck)

Stringkini (a two-piece swimsuit attached by strings that is scantier and more revealing than a regular bikini)

Sidekini (a swimsuit designed to optimize the side-boob effect)

Camikini (a swimsuit consisting of thin-strapped camisole top and bikini bottom)

Flagkini (a swimsuit top informally created by the wrapping of a flag)

Duckini (a swimsuit made of a stick-on material (not to be confused with Kim Kardashian's endorsement of gaffer’s tape for use as ad-hoc corsetry))

Numokini (a bikini worn without the top (also called Unikini))

Underkini (a swimsuit designed to optimize the under-boob effect (not suitable for all))

Seekini (a translucent or semi-translucent swimsuit)

Hikini (s swimsuit with a higher-profile bottom)

Poligrill's helpful bikini identification chart.

Louis Réard (1896-1984) was a French engineer who took over his mother's lingerie business and the bathing ensemble he designed debuted in 1946.  As a concept it wasn’t new, such things documented by many cultures since antiquity but Réard’s design was minimalist by the standards of the time.  Although it was suggested he choose the name because an exploding A-bomb was his preferred simile for the effect on men, in subsequent interviews he claimed his mind was focused on what he expected expected to be an "explosive commercial and cultural reaction" to his design.  Although originally Réard’s registered trademark (patent number 19431), bikini has long been generic. When first displayed at Paris's Piscine Molitor (a large swimming pool complex) in July 1946, so scandalous did the established catwalk models find the notion of exposed navels that all declined the job so Monsieur Réard was compelled to hire Mademoiselle Micheline Barnardini (b 1927), then an exotic (ie nude) dancer from the Casino de Paris.  For Mlle Barnardini even the skimpiest bikini was more modest than her usual professional lack of attire.   

Le Monde Illustré in August 1947 applied a little of their bourgeois intellectual thuggery in comparing the denuding of the surface of Bikini Atoll by the bomb’s blast wave with the near-elimination of flesh-covering material in the swimsuit:  “Bikini, ce mot cinglant comme l’explosion même...correspondait au niveau du vêtement de plage à un anéantissement de la surface vêtue; à une minimisation extrême de la pudeur”.  (Bikini, a word now of explosions, compares the effect of the state of the clothing at the beach to an annihilation of the dressed surface; an extreme minimization of modesty.)  Even then however it wasn't something all that novel, two-piece swimwear often seen since at least the 1930s and French fashion designer Jacques Heim (1899–1967) early in 1946 had staged a re-launch of his pre-war two-piece swimsuit which he named the Atome, (atoms then much in the public imagination as something very small yet possessing great power) advertising it as "the world's smallest bathing suit".  However, unlike Réard's creation, it covered the navel, most of the buttocks and more of the breasts, enabling M. Réard truthfully to claim the bikini was "smaller than the smallest bathing suit".  The rest is history.

Le Yacht de la Route "Bikini" by Henri Chapron on the chassis of a 1937 Packard Super Eight.

The term “land yacht” came into use in the 1970s to describe the truly huge luxury automobiles which the major US manufactures all produced for most of the decade before emission control legislation and fuel-efficiency standards doomed the breed.  The Cadillacs and Lincolns were the most emblematic but on the basis of length, at 235¼ inches (5975 mm), the 1973 Imperial was actually the biggest.  All were highly inefficient and, despite the dimensions, were frequently comfortable transport only for two although once inside they were enveloped by leather or velour and the driving experience, although not fast by the standards of today (or even years gone by), was truly effortless, smooth and quiet.  So isolated were the occupants from the outside environment that a frequent comment was they seemed “to float down the road”, hence the term “land yacht”.  The dinosaurs of the 1970s however weren’t the first of the breed.

1937 Packard Super 8 Formal Sedan.

Before in 1940 taking over his mother’s lingerie business Louis Réard was an automobile engineer and one with a flair for publicity so he commissioned coach-builder Henri Chapron (1886-1971 and in the 1960s to become famous for his line of Citroën DS & ID coupés & cabriolets) to build what he called Le Yacht de la Route (the yacht of the road).  Chapron’s design included an actual boat bow, a cabin with portholes, a mast from a yacht and a rear deck where models would pose in bikinis when the car was taken around France on promotional tours.  Originally the coachwork was mounted on the chassis of a 1948 Hotchkiss Artois but its 3.5 litre (212 cubic inch) straight-six proved inadequate to propel to heavy load so it was swapped to that of a 1937 Packard Super Eight, the 6.3 litre (384 cubic inch) straight-eight able effortlessly to cope.

Model Adriana Fenice (b 1994) in bikini.

The curiously named "Bikini State" was the system by which an alert state was defined by the UK's Ministry of Defence (MoD) to warn of non-specific forms of threat, including civil disorder, terrorism or war.  Introduced in 1970, it was in use until 2006 and the MoD's official position has always be "bikini" was a code name selected at random by a computer; those who accept that story are presumably not familiar with the long military tradition of providing misleading answers, either to amuse themselves or confuse others.  There were five Bikini alert states: (1) White which meant essentially there was no indication of a specific or general threat, (2) Black which referred to a situation in which there was heightened concern about internal or external threats, (3) Black Special which indicated an increased likelihood of the conditions which triggered a Black Alert, (4) Amber which confirmed the existence of specific threats or the higher probability of entering a state of armed conflict and (5) Red which covered everything from a specific threat (including the target(s) to actually being in a state of war and at risk of a nuclear strike.  The need for a system which was better adapted to providing advice to the whole population rather than just the military & civil service was acknowledged after the 9/11 attacks in the US when it was recognised the threat environment had shifted since the Cold War and that the whole country should be regarded as "target rich" in much the way the security services treated Northern Ireland.  Accordingly in 2006, the Government adopted a new five layer system: (1) Low, last seen in the brief, optimistic era between the end of the "troubles" in Northern Ireland (1998) and the week of the 9/11 attacks, (2) Moderate which is about as close to "normal" as anyone now reasonably aspires to achieves and suggests folk should be "alert but not alarmed", (3) Substantial which indicates some event is likely, (4) Severe which indicates a heightened level of threat beyond the substantial and (5) Critical which suggests there is intelligence to indicate an imminent attack and security precaution should be elevated to their highest level.

Many countries have similar systems in place although most maintain different arrangements for civilian & military purposes, the latter always tied to specific protocols and procedures.  Some are trans-nation such as those used by the European Union (EU) and the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) and five-layers used to be the preferred option although this has changed.  In the US the military's DEFCON (defense readiness condition) uses five color-coded levels ranging effecting from "stand easy" to "global thermo-nuclear war is imminent or already begun".  The now defunct civilian Homeland Security Advisory System (HSAS; 2002-2011) used a five-level approach but it was much criticized and since 2011 the US has used National Terrorism Advisory System (NTAS) which is event specific and defined by start and end dates, rather than maintaining the country in some nominal state of alert.

Sala delle Dieci Ragazze (Room of the Ten Girls), a first century AD mosaic in Villa Romana del Casale, Sicily.  For whatever reason, it was a later addition, added atop what's thought to be a conventional geometric mosaic.  

The bikini might in the popular imagination be thought a symbol of Western freedom and something which liberated women from the demands they remain as invisible as possible but the concept of the garment is truly ancient.  Some 2 miles (3.2 km) from the Sicilian town of Piazza Armerina lie the ruins of what would once have been the impressive Roman villa, Villa Romana del Casale.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site thought to have been built early in the fourth century AD, it contains one of the most extraordinary collections of ancient Roman mosaics, all though the works of African artists and artisans.  One creation which has proved of great interest is that which sits in what is popularly known as the Sala delle Dieci Ragazze (Room of the Ten Girls), depicting ten women, nine of whom wearing something in the style of two-piece bathing suits, archeologists suggesting the bottom being a loincloth made cloth or leather and known as a subligaculum, a scanty version of the male perizoma worn both as underwear and sometimes by athletes and slaves.  It was a design which is thought to have spread throughout the empire because archaeologists in Britain discovered during the dig of an old well a leather “thong” that was found to date from shortly after the time of Christ.  Its size and shape was exactly that of a modern bikini bottom and it’s now an exhibit at the Museum of London.

The top part was essentially a breast-band, known also to have been worn in Greece where the garment was known as a mastodeton or apodesmos (a strophium to the Romans).  In deference to comfort, mastodetons are thought often to have been made from linen.  The contribution to fashion is one thing but what interested historians was that the women are clearly participating in sports, their “bikinis” activewear and not swimwear.  Some of the activities are ambiguous but it’s obvious some are running, another is in the throes of throwing a discus while two are engaged in some form of ball sport.  Interestingly, the ball is multi-colored but whether this reflected the nature of sporting equipment in Antiquity or was a piece of artistic license isn’t known.  Of political interest are the young ladies with crowns of roses and palm-fronds, traditionally the prizes awarded to those victorious in athletic competitions so the events were, to some degree, apparently structured.  It’s a myth women in the Roman Empire were always banned from sport although there were restrictions in that men and women competed separately and while, in Athenian tradition, men generally competed naked (something outside the home not permitted for women), the ancient “bikinis” were a compromise which afforded comfort while avoiding unduly exciting any man whose glance might fall upon female flesh.

That the US nuclear tests at Bikini Atoll made the swimsuit a world-wide success was noted by one Australian entrepreneur who, after the British conducted their own tests in October 1952 in the Montebello Archipelago, some 60 miles (100 km) off the north-west coast of Western Australia, attempted to promote his own variation: the Montebello suit (actually a bikini under another name.  The tests, known as Operation Hurricane, came about because the British, fearful of (1) a nuclear-armed Soviet Union, (2) a possibly resurgent Germany and (3) a one-day un-interested United States, were anxious to possess their own independent nuclear deterrent.  The British project proved a success and the UK to this day maintains a boutique-sized but strategically significant array of nuclear weapons and a delivery system which permits them to be aimed at any target on the planet.  The Montebello swimsuit of the early 1950s was not a success but the name has be revived and bikinis using the name are now available.

Burkini

Burkini (pronounced boo-r-kee-nee or burr-kee-nee)

A type of bathing suit for women covering the torso, limbs, and head, leaving exposed the face, hands and feet.

2004: The construct was a portmanteau of bur(k)a + (bi)kini (by extraction from bikini, in interpreting the "bi" as a prefix "bi-), thereby creating the new suffix "bur-").  Burka (other spellings including burkha & burqa) was from 1836, from the Hindi बुरक़ा (burqā) (برقع‎ (burqā) in Urdu), from the Persian برقع‎ (borqa), from the Arabic بُرْقُع‎ (burqu).  The -kini was an adoption of the –kini in the Bikini, first noted in 1946.  Although known as the Eschscholtz Atoll until 1946, the modern English name is derived from the German colonial name Bikini, adopted while part of German New Guinea and was a transliteration from the Marshallese Pikinni (pʲi͡ɯɡɯ͡inʲːi), a construct of Pik (surface) + ni (coconut or surface of coconuts).  The alternative spelling is burqini.  Burkini is a noun; the noun plural is burkinis.    The name is proprietary and trademarked name (as Burkini and Burqini) owned by its inventor, Aheda Zanetti (b 1967), a Lebanese-born Australian fashion designer, so technically should be used with an initial capital in that context but lower-case is correct if used in the generic sense to describe similar swimwear.

Lindsay Lohan in burkini, Thailand, April 2017.  Note the exposed feet which would have attracted the disapprobation of Afghan Taliban’s Ministry for the Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vice.

Although most associated with those who adopt the style for religious reasons, it works functionally for anyone seeking to maximise skin protection.  The suits are made of SPF50+ fabric, generally using a finely-knit polyester swimsuit fabric rather than the heavier neoprene used for wetsuits.  The design is intended to respect Islamic traditions of modest dress but its acceptability is debated; few Muftis have seemed impressed and no Ayatollah is known to have commented although it’s known influential Hanafi scholars at Al-Azhar University in Cairo, Egypt, reject full-body swimsuits as allowable wear in mixed company.  Appeal is however cross-cultural; burkinis proving popular in Israel, among both Jewish-Haredi and Muslims and there is the functional appeal, especially for those with fair skin, of protection from harsh sun.  In France, where there had been controversy since 2009, in 2016 a number of French municipalities banned the burkini, citing concerns about the repression of women.  The Burkini was released in 2004, following Zanetti’s earlier creation, the Hijood (a portmanteau of hijab and hood) designed permit participation in sports by Muslim girls whose practice of observance didn’t allow the clothing traditionally used in the West.

Esthetic

Esthetic (pronounced es-thet-ik)

(1) An alternative spelling of aesthetic (mostly North American).

(2) In US commercial use, a term applied to cosmetic surgery (as esthetic surgery) and other fields in the beauty business.

1920s: A re-purposing of an existing word (originally in the form “esthetic surgery” by a US doctor as a means of product differentiation (plastic surgery for cosmetic rather than reconstructive purposes).  Esthetic is an adjective (and when used as an alternative spelling of aesthetic the comparative is more esthetic, the superlative most esthetic) and esthetician is a noun; the noun plural is estheticians.  The alternative spelling esthetic began life as one of those Americanisms which annoy some but it reflected simply the wholly sensible approach in US English that it’s helpful if spelling follows pronunciation and esthetic remains the alternative spelling of aesthetic, used predominately in North America although, as the internet has achieved for so many variants, it is now an internationalism.

Often, when an image appears in which a celebrity seems somewhat “changed”, Instagram lights up with speculation about possible esthetic surgery.  If there’s enough interest, this will spread to the mainstream celebrity sites which will deconstruct the possibilities and sometimes publish interviews with esthetic surgeons who will offer an opinion.  Once, esthetic interventions were almost always denied but now they’re sometimes admitted and even publicized.

In the early twentieth century the US cosmetic surgery industry (even then inventive and profitable), re-purposed the word; linguistic differentiation to create product differentiation: “esthetic surgery”, the business of performing surgery for aesthetic purposes rather than reasons strictly medical or reconstructive and the most significant figure in this was the German-Jewish cosmetic physician Jacques Joseph (1865–1934), now remembered as the “father of modern cosmetic surgery”.  Under the auspices of first the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS, 1931) and the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS, 1967), the business of esthetic surgery has since boomed and related (even if remotely) professions such as nail technicians, the lip-plumpers and the body-piercers also append “esthetic” to their advertising; the first “estheticians” were the skin care specialists (exfoliation, massage, aromatherapy, facials and such) but the title soon proliferated.

Forbes on Miami Swim Week 2024

With their coverage of Miami Swim Week (MSW 2024; South Beach, Miami, 29 May-5 June 2024), Forbes must have delighted etymologists looking for case studies.  MSW is self-described as “The premier fashion event of the year!” which may elicit a wry smile from some in New York, Paris, London or Milan but the phase “swim week” is no perhaps too modest from an event which has grown from being in 1998 essentially somewhere for manufacturers and retailers to display the new season’s swimsuits to a place where, in addition to hundred of vendor spaces and multiple runways (no catwalks at MSW) there are seminars, panel discussions and “beach lifestyle events” like yoga + mimosas; MSW is now very much a “vibe occasion”, noted for vendor hospitality and after-parties.  It has of course also moved with the times and those times have changed from when DEI (diversity, equity and inclusion) was achieved with a smattering of brunettes among the bronzed blondes on what then were the catwalks.  Now there is obvious ethnic diversity and some “plus-size” models (up to a certain point) and it’d be interesting to have an artificial intelligence (AI) engine review the footage of the last few MSW and similar events to calculate if there’s appears to be an industry “quota” for those not of the (still secretly) desired body type and skin color.  The suspicion is there may be such quotas and those numbers are “creeping up”, presumably to plateau at some “threshold of plausible acceptability”.

What Forbes explored in the headline: "Aesthetics meets Esthetics" was one of the panel discussions conducted at the Gabriel Hotel as part of the Art Hearts Fashion run of show which included runway shows from men’s swimwear line Hunk and The Black Tape Project with its conceptualized futurist swimwear designs.  On Friday, the intriguingly named “Snatched Plastic Surgery” hosted an intimate panel discussion exploring the symbiotic relationship between body trends and fashion.  On the panel were industry experts including designers & fashion house CEOs, magazine editors and a plastic surgeon specializing in cosmetic procedures (esthetic surgery).  The symbiosis explored was about (1) the part esthetic procedures (not all are surgical) contribute to demand for clothing which reveals more of the body’s surface (ie skin) of which swimwear is the most extreme example and (2) the demand for such procedures generated by the desire to wear such clothing.  There are technical aspects to that which involve the intricate details of surgeries which make certain cuts of swimwear wearable by those who would otherwise be precluded but that didn’t appear to make the panel’s agenda.

Structural determinism in action: At MSW 2024, rosettes came in sizes to suit the coverage required (or desired).

What MSW 2024 did reveal was that the trend which disproportionately was over-represented in the coverage continued to be the most minimal but one notable return was one of the industry’s older fig leaves: the rosette.  Having lost the association with high-society and neglected in political campaign wear (except in the UK and to some extent in New Zealand) since the advent of digital advertising, rosettes in fashion were last seen at scale (and occasionally en masse) in the years around the turn of the twentieth century but on the MSW runways they were back.  Although coverage in the press was limited, whether as a three dimensional attachment or a printed motif, rosettes appeared often on the swimwear designed actually to be worn in the water but what caught the eye of photographers were the most minimal, most of which would be unlikely long to survive secure in the surf.  Still, that was unlikely to have been a design objective and as a static display or worn while walking (carefully), they probably work well.

MSW 2024: External superstructure was more apparent al la the exposed plumbing in some of the architecture of mid-century modernism.

The other thing the critics noted was the increasing migration of the “cage bra” look to swimwear.  If well designed, the exposed superstructure can genuinely function as a structural device but the real attraction was that it permits the volume of material (already hardly generous) further to be reduced.  That certainly is a design objective but one which creates the problem of having less surface area with which to work to create something, hence the attraction of making the superstructure a feature.  It’s essentially an underwire which is shaped rather more than is required to fulfil the functional purpose and sometimes even a little wider (a rare case of a minimalist bikini’s component getting bigger) so accessories can be added or more of the fabric covering is displayed.

Gaffer & Duct

Gaffer (pronounced gaf-er)

(1) The chief electrician on the set of a movie or television show.

(2) In informal use, a boss, supervisor, or manager.

(3) In informal use, an old man, especially one living in the country (often used affectionately or patronizingly).

(4) A foreman or overseer in charge of a group of physical laborers; the coach or manager of a sports team.

(5) In glassmaking, a master glassblower responsible for shaping glassware.

(6) Slang for boy or youth (unique to Ireland); used in maritime regions to refer to the baby of the house.

(7) A type of tape used usually as a safety device to tape-down cables to reduce the risk of tripping hazards (technically gaffer’s tape).

(8) A boat's crew member whose duty is to gaff (a tool consisting of a large metal hook with a handle or pole, especially the one used to pull large fish aboard a boat) a (large) fish once the angler has reeled it in.

(9) In slang, as “to gaff”, “gaffered” or ”to gaffer”, a description of some temporary or roughly improvised repair using gaffer tape or some other quick and dirty method; “to make a gaff” as a description of a mistake is a variation of this.

1565–1575: Thought likely to be a contraction of godfather, but with the vowels influenced by grandfather.  The use to describe “an elderly rustic" was apparently based on continental analogies (compare gammer and the related French compère and German Gevatter).  It seems originally to have been a term of respect, also applied familiarly; from "old man" and was by 1841 extended to foremen and supervisors generally.  In UK police forces, it’s common slang to describe the officer in charge of a particular section or squad and in Association Football (soccer), the head coach or manager.  In the early twentieth century, it was carried over to the electrician or technician in charge of lighting on a film set because the natural lighting on early film sets was adjusted by opening and closing flaps in the tent, these cloths called gaff cloths or gaff flaps.  Because the technician used a long pole with a hook known as a “gaff hook”, he came to be known as a “the gaff hooker” and, as English does when users find there are too many syllables, this was truncated to “the gaffer”.  The tape later used for electrical cables was almost exclusively in the gaffers' toolboxes and thus became “gaffer’s tape”.  Now it’s known almost always as “gaffer tape”.  Gaffer is a noun; the noun plural is gaffers.

Ad-hoc wrap: 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais two door coupe, "duct tape" version.

Duct (pronounced duhkt)

(1) Any tube, canal, pipe, or conduit by which a fluid, air, or other substance is conducted or conveyed.

(2) In anatomy and zoology, a tube, canal, or vessel conveying a body fluid, especially a glandular secretion or excretion.

(3) In botany, a cavity or vessel formed by elongated cells or by many cells.

(4) In the infrastructure of electricity, a single enclosed runway for conductors or cables.

(5) In a printing press, the reservoir for ink.

(6) Guidance; direction; quotation (obsolete).

1640-1650: From the Latin ductus (conveyance of water; a leading, a conduit pipe), noun use of the past participle of ducere (to lead) from dūcō (I lead, draw), from the primitive Indo-European root deuk (to lead).  Use has endured in the Medieval Latin aqueduct and the high rank of aristocracy, duke, drawn from the past participle of ducere (to lead); the construct was duc (variant stem of dūcere (to lead)) + tus (suffix of verbal action).  The meaning in an anatomical sense (vessel of an animal body by which blood, lymph etc, are conveyed) was first noted in the 1660s while that of a "conduit or channel" dates from 1713.  Use in a variety of architectural and engineering contexts to describe "tubes in a structure" developed after the use to describe an "air tube" in 1884.  Duct & ducting are nouns & verbs, ducted is a verb & adjective and ductal is an adjective; the noun plural is ducts.

Duct tape was in 1894 originally sold under the name duck tape, long, non-adhesive strips of plain cotton duck cloth used in various mechanical processes.  The name was transferred to a plastic-coated adhesive tape used by U.S. soldiers in World War II, probably because of its waterproof qualities (ie the sense of "water off a duck's back").  It continued in civilian use after the war, and the name shifted to duct tape by 1958, perhaps because the most common use was in air ducts, which also accounts for its still standard silver-gray color.

Duct and Gaffer Tape

Duct tape scene: Lindsay Lohan as Tess Conway in Freaky Friday (2003).

Often casually regarded as interchangeable, duct and gaffer tapes are constructed differently because they’re intended for different purposes.  Indeed, using one for the intended application of the other can cause messy or worse results.  They’re similar in that both are hand-tearable, conform well to uneven surfaces and tend to be sold in the same packaging and sizes.  Duct tape is constructed with a polyethylene (PE) cloth backing, a material that makes it waterproof and contains an aggressive, rubber-based glue, allowing it easily to adhere to many of surfaces.   Duct tape has (1) a shiny, reflective backing, (2) is for semi-permanent or permanent applications and (3) tends to leave an adhesive residue when removed.  A specialized variation is a heat-resistant foil (not cloth) duct tape, useful for sealing heating and cooling ducts.  For decades silvery gray, it’s now available in colors and even printed designs.

Duct tape fashion: Lindsay Lohan in duct tape cocktail dress.  Tape is 3M Utility Duct Tape 2929 (Silver) and the shoes are Jimmy Choo Patent Leather Sandals.

Gaffer tape is made with a coated cloth backing and a synthetic, rubber-based glue.  Because it doesn’t have the PE backing, gaffer tape is not waterproof but the barrier properties in the backing make it moisture resistant in most cases.  This means it shouldn’t be used for waterproofing but is suitable for temporary use in high-humidity and moist environments. The adhesive on gaffer tape is less aggressive than duct tape, rendering it more easily removed when temporary need is over.  Because of its origins in the theatre, gaffer tape traditionally had a matte white or black backing to reduce the reflection of light but is now available in colored gloss finishes.  It's important gaffer tape be (relatively) easy to remove because in most cases its use intrinsically is temporary, typically to render cables run here and there safe, ensuring they['re not a trip hazard.  Unfortunately, because the adhesive used needs still to be strong enough to stick to surfaces as long as is required, a residue can be left on some surfaces, notably carpets and this is more apparent on some colors.  Many techs have been shouted at by those upset at what's been done to their carpets.

Piet Mondrian’s 1941 New York City 1 as it (presumably correctly) sat in the artist's studio in 1944 (left) and as it has since 1945 been exhibited (upside-down) in New York and Düsseldorf (right).  Spot the difference. 

The term “duct tape fashion” seems to have become a generic, possibly because of the dark association of the stuff with kidnappings and abductions but many of the products so described actually use different types of tape, such as the New York City series of abstract works created in the 1940s with multi-colored paper tape by the Dutch artist Piet Mondrian’s (1872-1944).  The critics responded well to the works although one version, first exhibited at New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) in 1945, has since 1980 hung upside down in the Düsseldorf Museum as part of the Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen’s collection.  The revelation critics and curators for 80 years discussed and interpreted Mondrian’s meaning despite it being upside down was greeted with glee by those sceptical of modern art but the piece was unsigned, sometimes an indication the artist deemed it unfinished but he left no notes.

On the catwalk: The Black Tape Project at Miami Swim Week, July 2023.

Predictably, the “duct tape bikini” was, in terms of publicity generated, the highlight of Miami Swim Week in July 2023 but for some it was a surprise to see the return of the (trademarked) Black Tape Project because in New York, not six months earlier, Joel Alvarez (creator of the project), announced the brand had staged its “final show”.  Stories duly were written but at Swim Week it transpired the “brand” being discontinued was “Joel Alvarez” and that having “…buried Joel Alvarez on that stage in front of the world”, henceforth he’d be known as “Drakhan Blackhart” and nobody denied that was a wonderful name.  On Instagram (@thekingoftape), Mr Blackhart informed the world he was the “…creator of the Black Tape Project™.  I am the world's only body tape expert, founder and pioneer of the Body Tape Art Genre.  Because of my concepts, I've been able to travel to over 42 countries and counting.”

Nice work if you can get it: An artist dedicated to his craft, Mr Blackhart “hand-applies” the black tape and studs.

Less became more during Mr Blackhart’s half-year hiatus from tape shows because what showed up on the Miami catwalk was even skimpier than what had been seen before; always minimalist, the results were now tending to the minuscule so as well as creating much interest, production costs were lowered because less tape was now required.  Of course, reducing the volume of tape brings artistic challenges because there’s less scope to introduce differences in the designs but it’s not for no reason the imaginative Mr Blackhart describes himself as the “King of Tape”: While conceptually all the installations (that does seem the right word) on the models were by definition “variations on a theme of black tape”, there was enough variety in the placement to keep the audience’s attention.  What the approach does mean is that the point must soon be reached where the possibilities have been exhausted so it may not be long before Black Tape Project models appear adorned with tapes of different colors and that could create a whole new language although there seems not reason why colors can't appear under the "Black Tape" brand.

The language of catwalk tape: From the Black Tape Project (left) and Miami Art Body Tape (right), Miami Swim Week, 2023.

The “duct tape fashion” business is also becoming crowded, Miami Art Body Tape presenting its debut show at a Miami Swim Week event in June.  While he discussed the aesthetic, brand founder Andrei Stamate also revealed interesting technical aspects about the use of the technique, explaining the tape is more difficult to apply than it is to remove and the peeling off “…doesn’t hurt as much as you’d think”; it’s assumed he was speaking from the models’ point of view.  The “body tape” used is of course different in construction and adhesive quality from industrial types such as gaffer or duct-tape but nor was it quite the same as medical grade tape or the famous “Hollywood tape”, the latter better known by the colloquial term “tit tape”.  Body tape “…sticks very well but if the models sweat it could come off” Mr Stamate revealed and has a better grip than the metallic types which he described as “sensitive”.

Implosion & Explosion

Implosion (pronoubced im-ploh-zhuhn)

(1) The act of imploding; a bursting inward (opposite of explosion).

(2) In phonetics, the occlusive phase of stop consonants; the nasal release heard in the common pronunciation of eaten, sudden, or mitten, in which the vowel of the final syllable is greatly reduced.

(3) The ingressive release of a suction stop.

(4) In clinical psychiatry, a type of behavior therapy in which the patient is repeatedly subjected to anxiety-arousing stimuli while the therapist attempts to extinguish the patient's anxiety and anxious behavior and replace them with more appropriate responses.

1829: The construct (modelled on explosion) was im- + (ex)plosion.  The im- prefix was from the Latin im-, an assimilated form of in- and used to express negation (not).  The prefix -in is quirky because it can act either to negate or intensify.  The general rule is that when pre-pended to a noun or adjective, it reinforces the quality signified and when pre-pended to an adjective, it negates the meaning, the latter mostly in words borrowed from French.  The Latin prefix in- was from the Proto-Italic en-, from the primitive Indo-European n̥- (not), the zero-grade form of the negative particle ne (not) and was akin to ne-, nē & nī.  In Modern English it is from the Middle English in-, from Old English in- (in, into), from the Proto-Germanic in, from the primitive Indo-European en.  Plosion was a word from the jargon of phonetics meaning the pronunciation of a consonant characterized by completely blocking the flow of air through the mouth and was a derivative of explosion, first coming into use in 1915–20 as a shortened form of explosion.  Implosion, coined as an opposite of explosion, was first published the Westminster Review in 1829.  There was a technical need for the word because, in popular use, many chemical reactions which resembled explosions were described thus, even though, as in the case of a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen, instead of an enlargement of bulk, a positive quantity, the result was is a negative one, tending towards a vacuum.

OceanGate’s diagram of Titan.

In response to the questions raised after it was confirmed OceanGate's Titan submersible had suffered a catastrophic implosion event, US Navy sources commented on the process:  When a submarine collapses (implodes), the hull material moves inward at a speed of around 1500 mph (2400 km/h) or 2200 feet (670 m) per second and the time required for a complete collapse is about 1 millisecond.  Typically, the human brain responds instinctively to stimulus at about 25 milliseconds and those with untypically fast reaction responses can begin to act at around 150 milliseconds.  The atmosphere inside a submarine contains a relatively high concentration of hydrocarbon vapors and this contributes to the space behaving something like the compression cycle in a very large diesel engine: The air auto-ignites and an explosion follows the initial rapid implosion.  A human in these circumstances is transformed into large blobs of fats and these the extreme temperature incinerates and turns to ash in little more than a second.  Navy sources also expressed scepticism at the desirability of constructing a hull from a mixture of materials (titanium and carbon-fibre) in vessels operating at depths where the pressure is extreme (where the wreck of the Titanic lies it’s some 400 times that which prevails at sea level).  The argument is that wherever the two materials meet is the point at which, over time, a weakness is most likely to form.  Because the Titan's tubular hull was made from carbon fibre, it's thought that rather than behaving like the metals used in submarine construction, it would to some extent fragment although the nature of the disintegration won't be known until the wreckage is examined.

Engineers however noted the consequences of the explosion (for both machine and people) could differ greatly from the historic experiences of such events at depth because they all involved vessels made from metal which tends to retain its inherent integrity, even as the structural integrity of the construction fails.  Additionally, many of the previous examples were spherical so the internal forces were equalized for the split-second during the critical event whereas Titan was tubular with what would, under the stresses imposed, become detachable titanium end-caps.  Titan's hull was built from carbon-fibre which, under the specific pressure encountered would have behaved differently from metal and may have fragmented.  The physics of all of this means the temperatures and dynamic forces experienced within Titan in that split-second may have been very different from the models generated by historic experience but until the wreckage and any human remains are examined, the details of the brief event will remain unclear.  The incident however is anyway likely to discourage the use of carbon-fibre hulls in submersibles but whether it has any implications for use in aviation will be interesting.  Building the fuselages of passenger airliners from carbon-fibre has many advantages and the stresses imposed are very different to those at depth but there is no real-world data to assess how the material will behave over the decades the airframes may operate.        

Historically, the difference between a “submersible” and a “submarine” was that a submersible was a vessel which operated usually on the surface but was able to submerge for short periods for purposes such as launching attacks on other vessels or attempting to avoid detection while a submarine was able to operate underwater for extended periods.  The definitions were (more or less) formalized after 1945 when “true” submarines were developed, rendering obsolete the traditional submersibles which gained their name as a clipping of “submersible boat”.  When nuclear propulsion was adopted, the duration of the craft was extended further, the primary limitation being the volume of food able to be stored.

The definitions have shifted somewhat although traces of the older distinctions remain.  For practical purposes, a submarine is a large, complex vessel able to undertake independent and extended underwater operations and although most associated with navies, there are many civilian operators of submarines.  In recent decades, submersibles have no longer been designed for sustained surface use (although some of the recent creations by drug smugglers appear to be exactly that) and are dedicated to and optimized for the undersea environment.  They can be just about any type of vehicle or apparatus capable of operating underwater, crewed or un-crewed and in an array of sizes and configurations for use in fields such as scientific research, exploration or underwater photography.

Implosions: Implosions do occasionally afflict storage tanks and the Mythbusters television series (past masters at explosions, on this one episode they forsook blowing stuff up and imploded something instead) attempted to create the conditions which “naturally” would provoke the phenomenon.  It proved difficult and the implosion eventually was induced by artificially reducing the internal pressure.

Explosion (pronounced ik-sploh-zhuhn)

(1) An act or instance of exploding; a violent release of energy resulting from a rapid chemical or nuclear reaction, especially one that produces a shock wave, loud noise, heat, and light (or the noise itself).

(2) A sudden, rapid, or great increase.

1615-1625: From the French explosion, from the Latin explōsiōnis, a genitive form of explōsio, from explōdo (I drive out by clapping) from explōdere (to explode), the construct being ex- (the prefix from Middle English from words borrowed from Middle French from the Latin ex (out of, from), from the primitive Indo-European eǵ- & eǵs- (out). It was cognate with the Ancient Greek ἐξ (ex) (out of, from), the Transalpine Gaulish ex- (out), the Old Irish ess- (out), the Old Church Slavonic изу (izu) (out), and the Russian из (iz) (from, out of)) + plōdo (I clap or I strike).  The figurative of "going off with violence and noise" is from 1660s and some sources insist the sense of "rapid increase or development" wasn’t noted until 1953 when it came to be used in commerce (describing both the extraordinary proliferation of consumer products in what would later come to be known as the “affluent society” and spikes in demand).  In the mid 1940s, the US conducted a number of nuclear weapon tests at Bikini Atoll in the South Pacific and when asked about his choice of “bikini” as the name for the fetching swimwear he trademarked (patent #19431) in 1946, the designer is reported to have at the time remarked he expected an "explosive commercial and cultural reaction" as dramatic as one of the Pentagon’s A-bombs.  The figurative use thus dates from at least the 1940s and it would seem at least plausible that in that vein the word had been used for a long time, centuries of wars exposing millions to explosions surely likely to have inspired the linguistic imagination.

In Ancient Rome, at the conclusion of a play, the actors would turn to the audience and command plaudite! (literally "clap your hands!); that's the source of the English plaudits (a mark or expression of applause; praise bestowed) and of the idea of the plausible (something to be applauded).  However, if the performance was a dud, the audience would explodo (the construct being ex- (out) + plaudo (clap), the idea being the actors is the dreadful performance would be "clapped off then stage" and as late as the seventeenth century the phrase persisted, surviving reports from critics recording "the crowd exploded him off the stage".  Indeed, even now, phrases like "the theory has long been exploded" are still sometimes seen although whether the writer has in mind the idea or "clapped away" or "blown up" may be uncertain. 

Figurative use: Lindsay Lohan with former special friend Samantha Ronson, the photograph taken in Mexico and dating from October 2008.

In figurative use, "implosion" and "explosion" frequently are used to describe different events or phenomena, the former often related to sudden and dramatic changes and while the latter can be used in this way, implosions can be imagined as gradual things which unfold over a long time, sometimes even years.  That said, there are some “explosions” which are regarded so only because of their peculiar context, such as the “Cambrian explosion” which was sudden and dramatic only against the measure of the evolutionary history of life on Earth.  The Cambrian Period, while a relatively brief period in the planet's four and a half billion years-odd of existence still encompassed in excess of forty million years (circa 540-485 million years ago).  During this time, there was a remarkable diversification and proliferation of complex multi-cellular life forms in the oceans and it was “explosive” in the sense nothing like it had happened before and in evolutionary terms, the appearance and diversification of an array of complex organisms (including the first appearance of animal groups or phyla which remain extant) was rapid indeed.  Still, that sort of figurative use of “explosion” tends to be restricted to evolutionary biologists and their ilk and it’s more familiar when used to describe something short & sharp like the rapid acceleration of a running back on the football field.  That would be over in seconds but in sport, something like the innings of a cricketer might be called “explosive” even if it unfolds over an hour or more.  It’s all a matter of context and literal explosions tend by their nature to be fast, brief events.

Just about any dictionary would define an explosion as something like “a rapid and forceful outward expansion or release of energy”, conveying the idea of something bursting forth or erupting with great intensity, impact, or noise and that’s familiar from the event associated with impacts, bombs and even volcanic eruptions which, although they can last for weeks are really only an explosion of short duration, following by consequential events like mud or lava flows which can last weeks.  However, far away (and long ago by the time we find out), there are explosions which are on such a scale they can take months.  There are lots of stars and sometimes, they explode.  In a sense, nothing lasts forever, yet at the same time, matter is, in one form or another, eternal.  Explosions are part of this process.  Quite how many stars exist is unknown and given we can observe only part of the universe, any estimate beyond a certain point is meaningless although, given calculations based on observable data suggest that there are at hundreds of billions of galaxies, each of which probably contains millions or billions of stars.  So, estimates (guesses) vary but the fact 1 septillion (1 followed by 24 zeros) is thought credible is interesting, not for the specific value it represents but because it means whatever might be the answer, it’s a very big number.  The time it takes for a star to explode depends on the type of star and the point it’s reached in its evolution but the two most significant types of stellar explosions are (1) supernovae and (2) stellar novae.  The mechanics and time absorbed by each in their explosions varies greatly.

A supernova is a powerful and catastrophic explosion which occurs at the end of the life of a massive star (or in a binary star system) and it can take (as seen from Earth) from a few weeks to several months.  As a prelude, over millions of years, the star will undergoes various stages of nuclear burning and fusion, culminating eventually in a catastrophic collapse and explosion.  Less energetic is a stellar novae which occurs in binary systems where a white dwarf star accretes matter from its companion star.  The accumulation of matter on the surface of the dwarf can lead to a sudden and rapid release of energy, resulting in a nova explosion.  Novae typically brighten over a short period, reaching peak brightness in a matter of days or weeks, after which they gradually fade away over several months.  Not all stars end with an explosion.  Less massive bodies (like our Sun) don’t explode but kind of fade away through a process cosmologists call stellar evolution, expanding into red giants, shedding their outer layers, eventually to be become white dwarfs on the path to dark, dead obscurity.  Back on Earth, the figurative use extends from a rapid increase in popularity of someone or something to sudden outbreaks of violence by individuals or entire societies and something said or done which might induce either of the latter can be said to be “potentially explosive”.

Conversely, “implosion” is used figuratively to describe an internal collapse or inward sinking, rather than an outward burst although the latter may be consequent upon the former.  It’s suggestive of a situation or event where there is (suddenly or gradually) failure, disintegration, or decline, typically accompanied by a loss of control or power and implosions are often associated with the gradual accumulation of pressures or internal forces that eventually lead to a collapse or breakdown.  Individuals, institutions or societies may be said to have imploded because they lacked the strength, internal cohesion or resources to resist pressures which may be externally imposed, generated internally or a combination of both.  However, although both explosion and (probably more frequently) implosion are among the general population commonly used terms when discussing aspects of metal health (usually of others), they’re officially not part of the lexicon of clinicians or other professionals in the field.  It may be that the words are sometimes in their thoughts when faming a diagnosis but neither appears in the American Psychiatric Association's (APA) Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM) which for decades has provided a standardized classification and criteria for diagnosing mental disorders.

An explosion: A simulation of the detonation of the Soviet Union’s AN602 Царь-бо́мба (Tsar Bomba), a thermonuclear gravity bomb which was the most powerful nuclear weapon yet built (as far as is known) or tested.  It was detonated on 30 October 1961 on a remote island in the Barents sea and the Russian claim of a yield equivalent to 50 megatons of TNT is now generally accepted (the contemporary US estimate of 57-60 was based on more remote observations).