Pouch

Pouch (pronounced pouch)

(1) A bag, sack or similar receptacle, especially one for small articles or quantities and historically closed with a drawstring although in modern use zips and other fasteners are common.

(2) A small, purse-like container, used to carry small quantities of cash.

(3) A bag for carrying mail.

(4) In the jargon of household textiles (Manchester), as “pillow pouch”, an alternative name for a pillowslip or pillowcase (archaic).

(5) As “diplomatic pouch”, a sealed container (anything from an envelope to a shipping container) notionally containing diplomatic correspondence that is sent free of inspection between a foreign office and its diplomatic or consular posts abroad or between such posts.

(6) As “posing pouch”, a skimpy thong (G-string) worn by male strippers, bodybuilders and such (known also as the “posing strap”, in certain circles, it's now an essential accessory).

(7) In the industrial production of food, as retort pouch, a food packaging resistant to heat sterilization in a retort, often made from a laminate of flexible plastic and metal foils.

(8) In military use, a container (historically of leather) in the form of either a bag or case), used by soldiers to carry ammunition.

(9) Something shaped like or resembling a bag or pocket.

(10) In physics, as “Faraday pouch”, a container with the properties of a Faraday cage (a conductive enclosure that blocks external static and non-static EMFs (electromagnetic field) by redistributing electric charges to the outer surface, preventing them affecting the interior; it was named after the inventor, the English physicist & chemist Michael Faraday (1791–1867)).

(11) A pocket in a garment (originally in Scots English but of late widely used by garment manufacturers).

(12) In nautical design, a bulkhead in the hold of a vessel, to prevent bulk goods (grain, sand etc) from shifting (a specialized form of baffle).

(13) A baggy fold of flesh under the eye (more commonly as “bags under the eyes”).

(14) In zoological anatomy, a bag-like or pocket-like part; a sac or cyst, as the sac beneath the bill of pelicans, the saclike dilation of the cheeks of gophers, or the abdominal receptacle for the young of marsupials.

(15) In pathology, an internal structure with certain qualities (use restricted to those fulfilling some functional purpose): any sac or cyst (usually containing fluid), pocket, bag-like cavity or space in an organ or body part (the types including laryngeal pouch, Morison's pouch, Pavlov's pouch & Rathke's pouch).

(16) In botany, a bag-like cavity, a silicle, or short pod, as of the “shepherd's purse”.

(17) In slang, a protuberant belly; a paunch (archaic and probably extinct).

(18) In slang, to pout (archaic and probably extinct).

(19) In slang, to put up with (something or someone) (archaic and probably extinct).

(20) To put into or enclose in a pouch, bag, or pocket; pocket.

(21) To transport a pouch (used especially of a diplomatic pouch).

(22) To arrange in the form of a pouch.

(23) To form a pouch or a cavity resembling a pouch.

(24) In zoology, of a fish or bird, to swallow.

1350–1400: From the Middle English pouche & poche, from the Old Northern French pouche, from the Old French poche & puche (from which French gained poche (the Anglo-Norman variant was poke which spread in Old French as “poque bag”), from the Frankish poka (pouch) (similar forms including the Middle Dutch poke, the Old English pohha & pocca (bag) and the dialectal German Pfoch).  Although documented since only the fourteenth century, parish records confirm the surnames “Pouch” & “Pouche” were in use by at least the late twelfth and because both names (like Poucher (one whose trade is the “making of pouches”)) are regarded by genealogists as “occupational”, it’s at least possible small leather bags were thus describe earlier.  In the 1300s, a pouche was “a bag worn on one's person for carrying things” and late in the century it was used especially of something used to carry money (what would later come to be called a “coin purse” or “purse”).  The use to describe the sac-like cavities in animal bodies began in the domestic science of animal husbandry from circa 1400, the idea adopted unchanged when human anatomy became documented.  The verb use began in the 1560s in the sense of “put in a pouch”, extended by the 1670s to mean “to form a pouch, swell or protrude, both directly from the noun.  The Norman feminine noun pouchette (which existed also as poutchette) was from the Old French pochete (small bag).  Surprisingly, it wasn’t picked up in English (a language which is a shameless adopter of anything useful) but does endure on the Channel Island of Jersey where it means (1) a pocket (in clothing) and (2) in ornithology the Slavonian grebe, horned grebe (Podiceps auritus).  The organic pocket in which a marsupial carries its young is known also as both the marsupium & brood pouch, the latter term also used of the cavity which is some creatures is where eggs develop and hatch.  Pouch is a noun & verb, pouchful & poucher are nouns, pounching is a verb, pouchy is an adjective and pouched is a verb & adjective; the noun plural is pouches.

Diplomatic pencil pouch.

The Vienna Convention on Diplomatic Relations (UNVCDR; United Nations (UN) Treaty Series, volume 500, p 95) was executed in Vienna on 18 April 1961, entering into force on 24 April 1964.  Although the terminology and rules governing diplomatic relations between sovereign states had evolved over thousands of years, there had been no systematic attempt at codification until the Congress of Vienna (1814-1815), held to formalize the political and dynastic arrangements for post-Napoleonic Europe.  There were also later, ad-hoc meetings which dealt with administrative detail (some necessitated by improvements in communication technology) but it was the 1961 convention that built the framework that continues to underpin the diplomatic element of international relations; little changed from its original form, it's perhaps the UN’s most successful legal instrument.  With two exceptions, all UN member states have ratified the UNVCDR; the two non-signatories are the republics of Palau and South Sudan.  It’s believed the micro-state of Palau remains outside the framework because it has been independent only since 1994 and constitutionally has an unusual “Compact of Free Association” arrangement with the US which results in it maintaining a limited international diplomatic presence.  The troubled West African state of South Sudan gained independence only in 2011 and has yet to achieve a stable state infrastructure, remaining beset by internal conflict; its immediate priorities therefore remain elsewhere. The two entities with “observer status” at the UN (the State of Palestine and the Holy See) are not parties to the UNVCDR but the Holy See gained in Vienna a diplomatic protocol which functionally is substantially the same as that of a ratification state.  Indeed, the Vatican’s diplomats are actually granted a particular distinction in that states may (at their own election), grant the papal nuncio (a rank equivalent to ambassador or high commissioner) seniority of precedence, thus making him (there’s never been a female nuncio), ex officio, Doyen du Corps Diplomatique (Dean of the Diplomatic Corps).

Lindsay Lohan in SCRAM bracelet (left), the SCRAM (centre) and Chanel's response from their Spring 2007 collection (right).

A very twenty-first century pouch: Before Lindsay Lohan began her “descent into respectability” (a quote from the equally admirable Mandy Rice-Davies (1944-2004) of MRDA fame), Lindsay Lohan inadvertently became of the internet’s early influencers when she for a time wore a court-ordered ankle monitor (often called “bracelets” which by convention of use is dubious but rarely has English been noted for its purity).  At the time, many subject to such orders concealed them under clothing but Ms Lohan made her SCRAM (Secure Continuous Remote Alcohol Monitor) a fashion statement, something that compelled the paparazzi to adjust their focal length to ensure her ankle of interest appeared in shots.  The industry responded with its usual alacrity and “ankle monitor” pouches were soon being strutted down the catwalks.

Chanel's boot-mounted ankle pouch in matching quilted black leather.

In one of several examples of this instance of Lohanic influence on design, in their Spring 2007 collection, Chanel included a range of ankle pouches.  Functional to the extent of affording the wearing a hands-free experience and storage for perhaps a lipstick, gloss and credit card (other than a phone the modern young spinster should seldom need to carry more), the range was said quickly to "sell-out" although the concept hasn't been seen in subsequent collections so analysts of such things should make of that what they will.  Chanel offered the same idea in a boot, a design borrowed from the use by military although they tended to be more commodious and, being often used by aircrew, easily accessible while in a seated position, the sealable flap on the outer calf, close to the knee.   

The origin of the special status of diplomats dates from Antiquity when such envoys were the only conduit of communication between emperors, kings, princes, dukes and such.  They thus needed their emissaries to be granted safe passage in what could be hostile territory, negotiations (including threats & ultimata) often conducted between warring tribes & states: the preamble to the UNVCDR captures the spirit of these traditions:

THE STATES PARTIES TO THE PRESENT CONVENTION,

RECALLING that peoples of all nations from ancient times have recognized the status of diplomatic agents,

HAVING IN MIND the purposes and principles of the Charter of the United Nations concerning the sovereign equality of States, the maintenance of international peace and security, and the promotion of friendly relations among nations,

BELIEVING that an international convention on diplomatic intercourse, privileges and immunities would contribute to the development of friendly relations among nations, irrespective of their differing constitutional and social systems,

REALIZING that the purpose of such privileges and immunities is not to benefit individuals but to ensure the efficient performance of the functions of diplomatic missions as representing States,

AFFIRMING that the rules of customary international law should continue to govern questions not expressly regulated by the provisions of the present Convention have agreed as follows…

US Department of State diplomatic pouch tag.

The diplomatic pouch (known also, less attractively, as the “diplomatic bag”) is granted essentially the same protection as the diplomat.  Historically, the diplomatic pouch was exactly that: a leather pouch containing an emissary’s documents, carried usually on horseback and in the modern age it may be anything from an envelope to a shipping container.  What distinguishes it from other containers is (1) clear markings asserting status and (2) usually some sort of locking mechanism (the origin of which was an envelope’s wax seal and if appropriately marked, a diplomatic pouch should be exempt from any sort of inspection by the receiving country.  Strictly speaking, the pouch should contain only official documents but there have been many cases of other stuff being “smuggled in” including gold, weapons subsequently used in murders, foreign currency, narcotics, bottles of alcohol and various illicit items including components of this and that subject to UN (or other) sanctions.  For that reason, there are limited circumstances in which a state may intersect or inspect the contents of a diplomatic pouch.  The protocols relating to the diplomatic pouch are listed in Article 27 of the UNVCDR:

(1) The receiving State shall permit and protect free communication on the part of the mission for all official purposes. In communicating with the Government and the other missions and consulates of the sending State, wherever situated, the mission may employ all appropriate means, including diplomatic couriers and messages in code or cipher. However, the mission may install and use a wireless transmitter only with the consent of the receiving State.

(2) The official correspondence of the mission shall be inviolable. Official correspondence means all correspondence relating to the mission and its functions.

(3) The diplomatic bag shall not be opened or detained.

(4) The packages constituting the diplomatic bag must bear visible external marks of their character and may contain only diplomatic documents or articles intended for official use.

(5) The diplomatic courier, who shall be provided with an official document indicating his status and the number of packages constituting the diplomatic bag, shall be protected by the receiving State in the performance of his functions. He shall enjoy person inviolability and shall not be liable to any form of arrest or detention.

(6) The sending State or the mission may designate diplomatic couriers ad hoc. In such cases the provisions of paragraph 5 of this article shall also apply, except that the immunities therein mentioned shall cease to apply when such a courier has delivered to the consignee the diplomatic bag in his charge.

(7) A diplomatic bag may be entrusted to the captain of a commercial aircraft scheduled to land at an authorized port of entry. He shall be provided with an official document indicating the number of packages constituting the bag but he shall not be considered to be a diplomatic courier. The mission may send one of its members to take possession of the diplomatic bag directly and freely from the captain of the aircraft.

Former US Ambassador to Pretoria, Lana Marks (b 1953).

Some ambassadors have been more prepared than most for handing the diplomatic bag, notably Ms Lana Marks, the South African-born US business executive who founded her eponymous company specializing in designer handbags.  In 2018, Donald Trump (b 1946; US president 2017-2021 and since 2021) nominated Ms Marks as US ambassador to South Africa, a role in which she served between January 2020 and January 2021 when, under the convention observed by political appointees, she resigned her office.  Although Ms Marks had no background in international relations, such appointments are not unusual and certainly not exclusive to US presidents.  Indeed, although professional diplomats may undergo decades of preparation for ambassadorial roles, there are many cases where the host nation greatly has valued a political appointee because of the not unreasonable assumption they’re more likely to have the “ear of the president” than a Foggy Bottom (a metronym for the State Department, the reference to the department's headquarters in the Harry S Truman Building which sits in the Foggy Bottom neighborhood of Washington DC) apparatchik who typically would be restricted to dealing with the secretary of state.  That was apparently the case when Robert Nesen (1918–2005, a Californian Cadillac dealer), was appointed US ambassador to Australia (1981-1985), by Ronald Reagan (1911-2004; US president 1981-1989), a reward (if that’s how being sent to live in Canberra can be described) for long service to the Republican Party fundraising rather than a reflection of Mr Reagan’s fondness for Cadillacs (Mr Nesen’s dealership also held other franchises) although it was Mr Reagan who "arranged" for Cadillac to replace Lincoln as supplier of the White House limousine fleet.

The Princess Diana by Lana Marks is sold out in emerald green but remains available in gold, black and chocolate brown.

Uniquely, South Africa has three cities designated as capitals: Pretoria (administrative/executive), Cape Town (legislative, parliament), and Bloemfontein (judicial, Supreme Court of Appeal).  In diplomatic protocol, ambassadors are accredited to the Republic of South Africa and present their credentials to the president and in practice this is done in Pretoria (Tshwane).  Ms Marks’ connection to the Trump administration’s conduct of foreign policy came through her membership of Mr Trump’s Mar-a-Lago Club (annual membership fee US$200,000, the "world-renowned Trump International Golf Club, West Palm Beach" a five minute drive), an institution which also produced the country’s ambassador to the Dominican Republic.  Ms Marks seems to have fitted in well at Mar-a-Lago, telling South Africa's Business Live: “It's the most exclusive part of the US, a small enclave, an island north of Miami.  One-third of the world's wealth passes through Palm Beach in season. The crème de la crème of the world lives there.”  One trusts the people of South Africa were impressed and perhaps even grateful.

Recto & Verso

Recto (pronounced rek-toh)

(1) A right-hand page of an open book or manuscript (almost always bearing the odd numbers); the front of a leaf.

(2) The front of a loose sheet of printed paper

1815–1825: A clipping of the Late Latin phrase rēctō foliō (on the right-hand (leaf or page)), ablative of the Latin rēctus (in this context “right”).  Recto is a noun; the noun plural is rectos.  The Latin rēctus (past participle of the verb “regere” (to rule; to guide; to straighten) and perfect passive participle of regō (to keep or lead straight, to guide)) was from the Proto-Italic rektos, corresponding to the primitive Indo-European hreǵtós (having moved in a straight line), from reǵ- (to move in a straight line; to direct).  It was used to mean “straight”, “upright” and “correct” as well as “right”.  In general use it was used in the sense of “right, correct, proper, appropriate, befitting with a particular emphasis on “morally right, correct, lawful, just, virtuous, noble, good, proper, honest”.  The association with “straightness” and “rightness” also influenced other derivatives in Latin and Romance languages, such as rectum (straight (and its use in anatomy)), rectitude (moral uprightness) and words in modern languages (rectify, direct etc).

Verso (pronounced vur-soh)

(1) A left-hand page of an open book or manuscript (almost always bearing the even numbers); the back of a leaf.

(2) The back of a loose sheet of printed paper.

(3) In numismatics, the side of a coin opposite to the obverse (the reverse)

1830–1840: A clipping of the New Latin phrase versō foliō (the leaf having been turned; the turned side of the leaf; on the turned leaf), the construct built with the Latin verb vertere (to turn; to revolve; to change) + folium (a leaf). 

Vertere ultimately was from the primitive Indo-European root wert- (to turn; to rotate).  Verso was the ablative form of versus (turned; facing; a line or verse in poetry, (originally meaning “a turning of the plow”), thus, as used in versō foliō , the reference was to the back (reverse) side of a page in a book or manuscript (as opposed to the recto (the front side).  The primitive Indo-European root wert- also provided the ultimate source of a number of related words in Indo-European languages, all of which is some way emphasize the concept of “turning” or “change”, the modern descendants including verse, invert, revert, and versatile, all of which preserve the idea of turning or changing orientation.  Verso is a noun; the noun plural is versos.

Recto is the front (right) and verso the back (left) side of a leaf of paper in something assembled permanently (ie bound or in some way joined permanently at the spine) in a book, codex or such.  The terms have always been used to refer to the finished article, not the material used in production.  This was not something of significance when books were assembled from single sheets which then were bound but in mechanical printing, it became common for larger sheets (the folium) to be printed with many pages, later to be folded (prior to binding) so the numbers on those larger sheets weren’t sequential when the page was flat but became so when folded.  Rēctō foliō (on the right side of the leaf) and versō foliō (on the back side of the leaf were thus created in the bindery, not by the scribe).  The use of the terms for loose leaf sheets came later.

Recto & Verso are sometimes referred to as part of the architecture or archeology of printing, correctly, they’re an aspect of codicology (the study of codices) and there is some academic dispute about the origins, the Australian historian Martyn Lyons (b 1946) suggesting the term rēctum (right, correct, proper) for the front side of a leaf was derived from the use of papyrus in late antiquity, based on a different grain running across each side with on one suitable for writing upon (the “correct”, smooth side).  In an echo of that, even modern paper has a “grain” (by virtue of the way the pulp is laid in the production process) and when using heavily textured bond paper, the most fastidious technicians ensure the stock is “laid” the “correct” way.  Recto and verso are reversed when language read right-to-left are used (so regardless of language, the verso is read first).  In publishing, the convention is for the first page of a book (page 1) to be a recto so almost all recto pages have odd numbers and all versos even numbers.

On-line editions of publications are not simply digital replications of the layout used in print where the recto-verso model remains in use.  The migration to screens has been cited as the prime reason the “two-page spread” is now less common in print.

With the coming of computers, pages came to be viewed on screens and as technology improved, it became possible to display two pages, side-by-side, thereby permitting publications such as pictorial magazines to maintain the recto-verso model and for readers to consume the content presented in the same visual format as the printed edition.  However, the screens of eBook readers, smartphones and tablets have a smaller surface area than the typical computer monitor and tend to be optimized for single-page display (although may do have a two-page option).  For that reason, publications which maintain both traditional print editions and on-line versions, have been compelled to create a different visual model for each format (there can be several) because the old “two-page spread” simply doesn’t work was well, viewed a page at a time.  The layout of on-line content is not simply a replication of a print edition (which follows the classic recto-verso model) and it seems clear the small has had a great influence on the large.

Louis Vuitton Recto Verso in Monogram Empreinte leather (left) and Louis Vuitton Pochette Cles (Vivienne collectors edition). 

Lindsay Lohan with Louis Vuitton Pochette Cles (key pouch) from LV’s Vuitton Monogram Charms collection.  

Among the many problems troubling the world, some have to ponder whether to buy a Louis Vuitton Recto Verso card holder or a Louis Vuitton Pochette Cles (key pouch), two items similar in size and function.  LV describes the Pochette Cles as a “…playful yet practical accessory that can carry coins, cards, folded bills and other small items, in addition to keys. Secured with an LV-engraved zip, it can be hooked onto the D-ring inside most Louis Vuitton bags, or used as a bag or belt charm.”  The Recto Verso is said to be a “…versatile accessory offers multiple practical features, including a flap pocket, a zipped compartment with a wide, L-shaped opening, and four card slots. It also has a concealed hook and chain which allow it to be attached to a bag or belt.”

Amber Ashleigh’s guide to choosing between Louis Vuitton's Retro Verso and Pochette Cles (Key Pouch).

The retail price of the Retro Verso is between US$590-720 while the Pochette Cles lists between US$320-410 (the price varying with the material used in the construction) and while the solution obviously is to buy at least one of each, not all modern young spinsters can afford that so they should watch Amber Ashleigh’s invaluable guide.  Ms Ashleigh says this is among her “most requested videos.”

Snood

Snood (pronounced snood)

(1) A headband once worn by young unmarried women in Scotland and northern England.

(2) A headband for the hair.

(3) A pouch or net-like hat or part of a hat or fabric that holds or covers the back of a woman's hair.

(4) In zoology, a long fleshy appendage of pendulous red skin that hangs over the upper beak of male turkeys.

(5) A short line of horsehair, gut, monofilament etc, by which a fishhook is attached to a longer (and usually heavier) line; a snell.

(6) A piece of clothing to keep the neck warm; a neck-warmer.

(7) To bind or confine (the hair) with a snood or (in other contexts) to put on a snood.

Pre 900: From the Middle English snod (fillet, ribbon (the plural was snoden)), from the Old English snōd (headdress, fillet, ribbon for the hair), from the Proto-Germanic snōdō (rope, string), from the primitive Indo-European snohtéh (yarn, thread), from sneh & snehi- (to twist, wind, weave, plait).  It was cognate with the Scots snuid (snood) and the Swedish snod & snodd (twist, twine) and related in various ways to the Old Saxon snōva (necklace), the Old Norse snúa (to turn, twist) & snúðr (a twist, twirl), the Old Irish snathe (thread) and the English needle.  The alternative spellings were snod & sneed, both now obsolete.  In Dutch, snood means “villanous and criminal.  The Dutch form was from the Middle Dutch snôde, from the Old Dutch snōthi, from the Proto-Germanic snauþuz (bald, naked, poor), from the primitive Indo-European ksnéw-tu-s, from the root ksnew- (to scrape, sharpen) and cognates included the German schnöde and the Old Norse snauðr.  Snood is a noun & verb and snooding & snooded are verbs; the noun plural is snoods.

In the Medieval period, snoods were most associated with young unmarried girls, the implication being “in a state of maidenhood or virginity” so were something like advertising one’s status on Facebook as “single”.  Merely adorning one’s hair with a snood was of course no guarantee of chastity so the system was open to abuse but social media profiles can be misleading so in a thousand or more years little seems to have changed.  Modern adaptations of the word have been opportunistic.  Since 1938 snood has been used to describe the pouch or net-like “bags” use to contain hear at the back of the scalp and these were well-documented as widely worn in the Middle Ages but nobody seems to have thought them snoods which were culturally specific.  The accessories dating from the late 1930s were sold in parallel with conventional hairnets and were worn almost exclusively by women, long hair for men not then a thing in the West.  Typically, they were a close-fitting hood worn over the back of the head but differed from a hairnet proper in that the fit was looser, and they were constructed with a noticeably thicker yarn, weaved in a coarser mesh.  The way they were worn varied greatly according to the preference of the user and the nature of the hair to be contained.  Sometimes, a tighter-mesh band around the forehead or crown, running over or behind the ears and under the nape of the neck held things in place, the woven “bag” containing the hair dangling at the back.  There were also snoods fashioned from a solid fabric, but the advertising of the era suggests these were for fashion rather than function and tended to be colored to match an outfit.  Snood-like constructions are also worn by some women in a variety of religions which demand some form of hair-covering although the interpretation varies.  In the post-war years as health regulations began more rigorously to be imposed in food production and other sensitive facilities, snood seems briefly seems to have been used to describe the hairnets which were being mandated for employees and others in the space.  There were “hair snoods” and “beard snoods” but it was a brief linguistic phenomenon and soon it was hairnets all the way down.

Samir Nasri (b 1987) in football snood.

In Association football (soccer), the word was for some years used to describe the specialized garments players used as “neck-warmers”.  Popular with some players and understandably so in a sport played in the depths of the northern winter, the team managers were divided on their desirability and there were reports that as recently as 2009, (male) media commentators (presumably from a nice warm commentary position) were recorded as saying snoods as neck-warmers were “unmanly”.  Use of such as word would now probably see a commentator cancelled (or worse) and if may be that if a player chose again to wear one on grounds of the ubiquitous H&S (health & safety), they might find officialdom too timid to react. 

Nike Football Snood.

Demand clearly exists because manufacturers continue to maintain the product lines despite bans on their use at the professional level, the International Football Association Board (IFAB) and the Fédération internationale de football association (FIFA, the International Association Football Federation) acting in 2011.  The concern apparently was on grounds of player safety, the suspicion that injuries might result from a snood being pulled from behind and in those circumstances the awarding a penalty for the infringement would not be sufficient because the need was to avoid injuries, not simply punish transgressors.  However, there was no empirical data and the risks were all theoretical so both authorities outlawed the things on the technical basis of them being “not an approved part of the football kit”.  The football snoods aren’t actually exclusively “neck-warmers” because, fully unfolded, they actually can cover the nose and ears, both vulnerable areas in cold conditions and in competitions where they’re not banned, they’re popular with goalkeepers, usually the most static position on the pitch.  So, instead of being thought of as neck-warmers, they’re really half-balaclavas and in the US, where “football” is something different, they’re often called “soccer scarfs”.

Lindsay Lohan illustrates the difference in a muffler (designed for warmth, left) and a scarf (designed to be decorative, centre).  A football player is a fully extended football snoot, worn in extended, half-balaclava style (right); in the US these are sometimes called “soccer scarfs”.

There is a logic to that although “soccer muffler” might be more precise although, lacking the alliterative punch, it’s unlikely to catch on.  Until well into the twentieth century, muffler and scarf were used interchangeably but with the introduction of the baffled mechanical device used to reduce the noise from car engines, the automotive use swamped the linguistic space and muffler became less associated with the neck accessory.  Historically, muffler was mostly British in use, Americans always preferring scarf but scarf is now almost universal although in the upper reaches of the fashion business however, the distinction is sometimes still drawn between the two, a scarf defined as an accessory to enhance the look and made from fabrics like silk, cotton or linen whereas a muffler is more utilitarian, bulkier and intended to protect from the cold and thus made from wool, mohair or something good at retaining body-heat.  Confusingly, muffler occasionally is used in commerce as a label of something which looks like a small blanket, worn over the shoulders and resembling an open poncho.

Crop

Crop (pronounced krop)

(1) In agriculture, the cultivated produce of the ground, both while growing and when harvested.

(2) In aggregate, the yield of such produce for a particular season.

(3) The yield of some other product in a season.

(4) A supply produced in a given (not necessarily annual or seasonal) period.

(5) A collection or group of persons or things appearing or occurring together (often as “current crop”, “this year’s crop etc”).

(6) The stock or handle of a whip.

(7) In equine use, variously (1) a short riding whip consisting of a stock without a lash (also called riding crop) or (2) less commonly, the lashing end of a whip, both styles used in the BDSM community.

(8) In zoology, a pouch in the esophagus of many birds, in which food is held for later digestion or for regurgitation to nestlings (also called the craw);  a chamber or pouch in the foregut of arthropods and annelids for holding and partly crushing food.

(9) In agriculture, the act of cropping (including having animals crop by allowing them to eat what’s growing).

(10) A mark produced by clipping the ears (used with cattle and other livestock).

(11) In hairdressing, a close-cropped hairstyle or a head of hair so cut.

(12) An entire tanned hide of an animal.

(13) In mining, (1) an outcrop of a vein or seam or (2) tin ore prepared for smelting.

(14) To cut off or remove the head or top of plants, grass etc; to cut off the ends or part of something; to cut short.

(15) As crop-top (or crop top & croptop), a shirt or top cut high to expose the midriff.

(16) In photography and image manipulation, to cut off unwanted parts of a print, negative or digital image (historically those parts at the edges but the term has long been used for general editing).

(17) The entire tanned hide of an animal.

(18) In medicine and pathology, a group of vesicles at the same stage of development in a disease.

(19) In geology, the shortened form of outcrop.

(20) In architecture, the foliate part of a finial.

Pre 900: From the Middle English crop & croppe, from the Old English crop & cropp & croppa (sprout, or top of a plant, bunch or cluster of flowers, ear of wheat (or other grain), paunch, crown of a tree, craw of a bird, a kidney), from the Proto-West Germanic kropp, from the Proto-Germanic kruppaz (body, trunk, crop), from the primitive Indo-European grewb- (to warp, bend, crawl).  It was cognate with Dutch krop (crop), the German Low German Kropp (a swelling on the neck, the craw, maw), the German Kropf (the craw, ear of grain, head of lettuce or cabbage), the Swedish kropp (body, trunk), the Norwegian kröypa (to bend), the Old Norse kroppr (rump, body) and the Icelandic kroppur (a hunch on the body).  Crop was related to crap and was a doublet of group and croup.  The verb was from the Middle English croppen (to cut, pluck and eat), from the Old English croppian.  It was cognate with the Scots crap (to crop), the Dutch kroppen (to cram, digest), the Low German kröppen (to cut, crop, stuff the craw), the German kröpfen (to crop), the Icelandic kroppa (to cut, crop, pick); the sense of all was literally, to remove the crop (top, head, ear) of a plant.  Crop is a noun & verb, cropping & cropped (cropt was the archaic spelling); the noun plural is crops.

Lindsay Lohan in crop tops.  All these photographs have been cropped to render them in the same aspect ratio.

Crop started modestly enough for a word which evolved to enjoy such a definitional range and use idiomatic form: In the Old English it meant only (1) craw of a bird & (2) rounded head or top of a herb and while the latter is found also in High German dialects, the subsequent developments in the sense of “head or top” generally and of “produce to be harvested from the fields” appear exclusive to English.  The meaning "grain and other cultivated plants grown and harvested" (especially "the grain yield of one year"), having been in Anglo-Latin in the early 1200s, was adopted in Middle English a century later, the sense development thought something which happened under the influence of the early thirteenth century verbal meaning "cut off the top of a plant".  From the notion in agriculture of “top” cam the use to describe the "upper part of a whip" which evolved by the 1560s be the "handle of a whip" (1560s) and thus by 1857 "a kind of whip used by horsemen in the hunting field" (1857).  Unlike traditional whips (which were really one long lash), it proved useful in having a rigid handle and thus could be hand for things like opening gates or other tasks when a wand or stick helped.

Riding crops are a staple device in the BDSM (Bondage, Discipline (although some say Dominance & submission is more indicative of actual practice) & SadoMasochism) community.  The photograph at the right was a "mid-session" promotional shot and has been cropped. 

The general sense of "anything gathered when ready or in season" dates from the 1570s and the idea of the “thick, short head of hair" was from 1795, both developed from the late fourteenth century sense of "top or highest part of anything".  In Middle English, crop and rote (the whole plant, crop and root) was figurative of totality or perfection.  The concept of the crop-circle dates from a surprisingly recent 1974 although they had been noted before.  The verb in the sense of “cut off the top of a plant” evolved from the verb around the turn of the thirteenth century, extended by circa 1350 to animals (originally of sheep) feeding on plants.  The general meaning “to cut off” dates from the mid fifteenth century, used from circa 1600 to refer to the practice of “cutting off a part of the ear of an animal as a mark of identification and ownership”.  In tailoring, as a term to describe the clipping of cloth, it’s been in use since 1711 and surprisingly perhaps, in fashion the staple crop top seems first to have been described as such only after 1984.  Crop and harvest can for many purposes be used interchangeably to refer to a season’s produce.  Yield refers to the return in food obtained from land at the end of a season of growth and can also be used in highly technical ways to measure metrics of specific efficiency and output.  Crop also denotes the amount produced at one cutting or for one particular season while harvest denotes either the time of reaping and gathering, or the gathering, or that which is gathered: the season of harvest; to work in a harvest; a ripe harvest.  Produce once described little more than household vegetables and still has that sense but the use has expanded.

Top before & after: The undesirable part of the photo has been cropped-out.  Lower before & after: The undesirable part of the photo has been edited-out.

In photography and image manipulation, cropping is the cutting off of un-wanted parts of a print, negative or digital image.  Technically, a crop is performed only at the edges and the removal of any other part is an edit by "crop" has long been industry slang for just about any modification.

Crop-up (to sprout, appear apparently without design from below the surface), although now most associated with agriculture was actually a mid-nineteenth century borrowing from mining where it referred to the geological phenomenon of the veins of ore or strata of rock “coming to the surface and becoming visible on the ground", that use noted since the 1660s.  The cropper dates from 1858 (usually as “come-a-cropper”) was a fall, originally from horseback and, as it usually involved the rider being thrown over the horse's head, there was always the connotation of failure but it now refers to a fall of any kind and elicits usually sympathy or myth depending on the severity of injury.  Also based on the idea of “head, sprout or top”, outcrop was first use in geology in 1801 to mean “exposure of rocks at the surface”.  The noun sharecropper (and share-cropper) was coined 1887 to describe the particular form of leasehold used in the southern US whereby a land-holder would lease land to a tenant to plant and harvest, also receiving a defined share of the crop. The noun share-crop came into use in 1867 and was used as a verb by 1871 although the noun sharecropping seems not to have been in use before 1936.  The cash-crop was one produced for sale rather than consumption; a bumper crop was a very good harvest (based on an old meaning of bumper as “big, full to the brim”); and crop rotation was a method of agricultural management designed to preserve the fertility of soil and limit the proliferation of pests; crop dusting was the spraying of crops with fertilizer or insecticide from low-flying aircraft dubbed crop-dusters; the cream of the crop is the best of any particular group.

Bourse

Bourse (pronounced boors)

(1) A stock exchange, the term used variously (depending on context): (1) as a synecdoche for “stock exchange”, (2) collectively of the stock exchanges of continental Europe and (3) specifically the Paris stock exchange (the Bourse de Paris, known usually in English as the “Paris Bourse”).

(2) Figuratively, any place, real, virtual or imaginary where (1) something of value is traded or (2) the value of something tradable is set or settled.

(3) In philately, a meeting of stamp collectors and or dealers where stamps and covers are sold or exchanged.

(4) In botany, the swollen basal part of an inflorescence axis at the onset of fruit development; it bears leaves whose axillary buds differentiate and may grow out as shoots.

1590s: From the mid sixteenth century French burse (meeting place of merchants), from the French bourse (meeting place of merchants (literally “purse”)), from the twelfth century Old French borse (money bag, purse), from the Medieval Latin bursa (a bag), from the Late Latin bursa (oxhide, animal skin and a variant of variant of byrsa (hide)), from the Ancient Greek βύρσα (búrsa or býrsa), (hide, wine-skin) of unknown origin.  Linked terms are used for other European stock exchanges including the Danish børs, the Swedish börs and the German Börse with the roots evident in Modern English words including bursar and reimburse.  Bursa in Late Latin meant “oxhide, animal skin” (reflecting the origins in the Greek) but, by association with use, in Medieval Latin came to mean “purse made of leather” and that meant it came also to mean “supply of money, cash, funds”, extending later to “pension”.  The modern sense of “exchange where stocks are registered and exchanged” dates from 1845, taken directly from the Bourse de Paris (Paris stock exchange).  In one legend, the use of the word “bourse” for such places was said to be derived from the House of Van der Buerse, a family in Bruges, Belgium.  There, merchants and bankers would gather to conduct financial transactions and the a variant of the name “Buerse” came to be used.  The alternative history relates how there was a sign on the front of the Buerse’s house adorned with a painting of three burses (purses).  Bourse is a noun; the noun plural is bourses.

A modern bull scrotum purse.

In French, bourse is also a slang term (usually in the plural) for the scrotum and from gift-shops and street markets around the world, one can buy coin purses (various with clasps, zips and tie-strings) made from the scrotums of various slaughtered creatures.  It appears also in the (usually affectionate) French vulgarity: “Ça remonte à quand, la dernière fois que tu t’es vidé les bourses?” (When was the last time you emptied your balls?  In more polite use, there the bourse d’études (educational scholarship, stipend, student allowance), bourse d’excellence (merit scholarship; fellowship) and boursicaut (small coin purse (mostly archaic though still a favorite among antique dealers).

A bull scrotum purse in a traditional style.

One linguistic development in French might explain something about why the fluctuations in financial markets came increasingly to send ripples throughout economies: In the sixteenth century the verb boursicoter meant “to set money aside” (ie keep it in one’s purse) but by the mid-nineteenth century (under the influence of bourse coming to mean “stock exchange”, it had shifted to mean “having a flutter on the markets; dabbling in the stock market”.  In a similar vein, a boursier (feminine boursière, masculine plural boursiers, feminine plural boursières) could be (1) a scholarship beneficiary, a recipient of a bursary or grant, (2) a stockbroker or trader or (3) one who makes purses and handbags.  In idiomatic use (which survives as a literary device there was sans bourse délier (literally “without opening one's purse”) which is English aligns with “without spending a penny” or “not spending a dime”.

The Modern English purse was from the Middle English purse, from Old English pursa (little bag or pouch made of leather, especially for carrying money), partly from pusa (wallet, bag, scrip) and partly from burse.  The Old English pusa was from the Proto-West Germanic pusō, from the Proto-Germanic pusô (bag, sack, scrip), from the primitive Indo-European būs- (to swell, stuff) and was cognate with the Old High German pfoso (pouch, purse), the Low German pūse (purse, bag), the Old Norse posi (purse, bag), the Danish pose (purse, bag) and the Dutch beurs (purse, bag).  The Old English burse was from the same source as the French bourse.  “Purse” (as a synecdoche for “financial matters generally” is widely used in idiomatic English and persists in the UK persists in the office of Keeper of the Privy Purse, a member of the royal household who manages the financial affairs of the sovereign.  The office dates from the early sixteenth century (things in the palace don’t often change) and can be understood as something like a CFO (chief financial officer) or FC (financial controller (comptroller the historic use)).  Purse had been used in the sense of “the royal treasury” as early as the late thirteenth century and the figurative sense of “money, means, resources, funds” emerged by the mid-1300s, this extending to specific defined instances (such as “prize for winning a horse race etc”) by the 1640s.  The thirteenth century use in Middle English to mean “scrotum” was indicative of the shape and size of the leather pouches used to carry coins.

Lindsay Lohan illustrates the purse and the handbag: The clutch purse (left) would everywhere be understood as “a purse” but in the US such a thing commonly would be called “a clutch” because “purse” is used also of larger items.  The red one (centre) would often be called a purse in the US but elsewhere in the English-speaking world it is certainly a handbag.  By the time something assumes the dimensions of a Louis Vuitton Doctor's Bag (right), it is definitely a handbag, tote or something beyond a purse.

Purse was first used of a “woman's handbag” in the late 1870s.  Originally a purse was “a small bag for carrying money” and that use persisted even after purses became less scrotum-like but in the US it came to be used also of what would in the UK be called a “handbag” (a small bag carried usually by women and typically containing personal items (lipsticks, other makeup and often a “purse” (in the original sense)).  Not infrequently, in trans-Atlantic use, the terms “purse” and “handbag” are used interchangeably, but confusion can arise if there’s no accompanying visual clue which is why the term “clutch purse” has proved so useful.  A clutch purse is a small, often rectangular bag designed conveniently to be carried in one hand (although many are supplied with an (often detachable) chain or strap which can be slung over the shoulder or used in cross-body style.  In the industry, not only is there no set of parameters which defines where a purse ends and a handbag begins and shamelessly manufacturers will use the labels indiscriminately if they suspect it will stimulate sales.  The US usage has infected the rest of the world including places like the UK where once there was a clear distinction and now it’s something really in the eye of the beholder, perhaps recalling the judgment Potter Stewart (1915–1985; associate justice of the US Supreme Court 1958-1981) handed down (in another context) in Jacobellis v Ohio (378 U.S. 184 (1964)): “I shall not today attempt further to define… and perhaps I could never succeed in intelligibly doing so.  But I know it when I see it…”

Bear & bull statues outside the Börse Frankfurt (Frankfurt Stock Exchange, formerly known as the Frankfurter Wertpapierbörse), the world's third oldest stock exchange.  Located in the German state of Hesse, Frankfurt is the country's financial centre.

About the only thing which can be guaranteed of a stock market is it will fluctuate and the most famous terms used of bourses are “bear market” & “bull market”, describing respectively the market conditions as they respond to the central dynamics of the business: fear & greed, both of which tend to manifest in waves because of what is known as the “herd mentality” of investors (gamblers as some prefer to describe themselves).  The collective noun for a group of bulls is a herd (less commonly a gang while bears assemble (a less common behavior for them) in a sloth (or sleuth).  The bull & bear metaphors have been in use since the early eighteenth century and the origin of the “bull” is uncontested and refers to the habit aggressive bulls display in pushing forward and tossing their heads upward, the idea being a herd of “bullish investors” will drive up the prices of the stocks they’re pursuing, thus creating a “bull market”.  The math of these terms is not precisely defined but, as a general principle, the view seems to be they are used of a market in which prices rise (bull) of fall (bear) 20% or more from a recent trough or peak, usually over a period or weeks or months depending on the state of an economy.  The labels can be applied to a single asset, an asset class, a group of securities, or a market as a whole and if the trends are mild or seem tentative, things can be called “bullish” or “bearish”.

One of several bull statues, DPRR (Democratic People's Republic of Rockhampton), Queensland, Australia.

The origin of the bestial analogy of the bear is contested.  The oldest story concerns the London trader who sold a shipment of Canadian bearskins sometime before they had come into his possession, his strategy being a gamble the market would fall and he’d just have to pay less for something he’s already sold at a higher price, thus gaining from “the spread” (the difference between the cost and selling prices and a variation on the mechanism used today by the “short sellers”).  These traders came to be known as “bearskin jobbers”.  The alternative history is more directly from behavioral zoology: the way bears with their powerful limbs and big, sharp claws will, if in the mood “claw stuff down”.

Lindsay Lohan with Valentine’s Day stuffed teddy bear.

The use may also have been influenced by the unfortunate history in England of bull and bear-baiting, gruesome, fight-to-the-death contests between the beasts which seem first to have been held during the thirteenth century and reaching an apex of popularity during the reign of Elizabeth I (1533–1603; Queen of England & Ireland 1558-1603).  An audience would bet on the outcome and the link with stock exchanges is that while markets may percolate for sometimes long periods, there will always be battles between “the bears” and “the bulls” and it’s during these events that great fortunes are made and lost.  The language appealed to writers and was used by the English poet & satirist Alexander Pope (1688-1744) in Book II of The Dunciad (1728), a work mocking the greed and folly of investors (gamblers) associated with the South Sea Bubble, a financial scandal of the early eighteenth century and one of many examples of herd mentality and “irrational exuberance”:

Come fill the South Sea goblet full;
The gods shall of our stock take care:
Europa pleased accepts the Bull,
And Jove with joy puts off the Bear.