Goth

Goth (pronounced goth)

(1) A member of an East Germanic people from Scandinavia who settled south of the Baltic early in the first millennium AD. They moved on to the Ukrainian steppe, first raiding and later invading many parts of the Roman Empire between the third and fifth centuries.

(2) In historic slang, a person of no refinement; barbarian.

(3) A genre of rock music, first popular in the 1980s and characterized by morbid themes and dreary melodies.

(4) A person part of a sub-culture favoring this style of music and whose tastes tend to be dark and morbid.

(5) In fashion, a descriptor of dark (usually black or purple) clothing and heavy make-up intended to create a ghostly appearance.

Pre-900: From the Middle English Gothe and Late Latin Gothī (plural); which supplanted the Old English Gota (plural Gotan), cognate with Gothic Gut (as in Gut-thiuda (Goth-people)).  Word in Greek was Gothoi.  In the nineteenth century, use in English became common to describe both architecture (often written as Gothick) and the literary style of certain novels; an adherent of either style was sometimes called a Gothicist.  Modern use to describe the fashion and music emerged in the 1980s, considered still a fork of the punk aesthetic.

The Visigoths

The Visigoths were the western branches of the old nomadic tribes of Germanic peoples referred to collectively as the Goths.  These tribes flourished and spread throughout the Roman Empire in Late Antiquity, an era known as the Migration Period.  It was the Visigoths under Alaric I who sacked Rome in 410, an act which made Europe’s descent into medievalism inevitable although there are historians who dispute the detail of that.

The term Visigoth was a geo-etymological error made by Cassiodorus (Flavius Magnus Aurelius Cassiodorus Senator, circa 485–circa 585).  Always known as Cassiodorus, he was a Roman statesman, renowned scholar of antiquity, and a bureaucrat in the administration of the Ostrogoth king, Theoderic the Great.  Confusingly for students of the epoch, Senator was part of his surname; he was not a member of any senate.  His mistake was thinking Visigoth meant "west Goths".  Visigoth is from the Latin Visigothus, probably deriving from the Proto-Germanic Wīsagutô, a construction of wīsaz (wise, knowledgable) +‎ gutô (a Goth) or from the primitive Indo-European wesu (good).

Battle of Guadalete, circa 1890, by Salvador Martínez Cubells (1845–1914)).

It happened in what is now southern Spain but it’s not known exactly where the Battle of Guadalete was fought and even the date is disputed, most sources saying it was in 711, others a year later although all agree it lasted, on and off, for days.  There had been earlier engagements but Guadalete, fought between the Umayyad Caliphate and Roderic, Visigothic King of Hispania, was the first major battle of the Umayyad conquest of Hispania.  Against the Christian Visigoth army under Roderic, the invading force of the Muslim Umayyad Caliphate was comprised mostly of Berbers and a smaller number of Arabs.  The significance of the battle, not wholly realized at the time, is that it was a set-piece culmination of the earlier skirmishes which had weakened the structure and lines of communications of the Visigoth army.  The Umayyad victory marked the beginning of their conquest of Hispania,  Roderic and many of his generals killed in the battle, opening the way for the capture of the Visigothic capital of Toledo.

Modern-sounding geopolitical concepts like political economy were important influences in the Islamic expansion in North Africa and the Iberian Peninsula.  North African politics and economics influenced the early Muslims’ decision to cross the Strait of Gibraltar because the Arab armies which had conquered North Africa found themselves drastically outnumbered by the Berbers (Amazigh), many of whom were either Christian or somewhere in the pagan tradition and the invaders’ rules were unambiguous: Christians, a “People of the Book,” were expected to pay the jizya, an additional tax not imposed on Muslims while pagans were offered the choice of conversion or the blade of the sword.

Clear though the theocratic rules may have been, the realities of an small occupying force attempting to exploit a local population which was hostile and greatly outnumbered the conquerors meant the triumph of politics over ideology, both the collecting of tax and conversions of heathens soon haphazard.  But, the lands of North Africa were vast and their defense and administration required money and if it couldn’t locally be collected, it would have to come from the spoils of war new conquests will bring.  To the south lay the seemingly endless deserts of the Sahara and to the north, the waters of the Mediterranean and whatever dangers lay in the sea-crossing to Iberia, they were preferable to attempting to push through the Sahara.

Some toxicity in Visigothic politics was also a factor in the invasion.   The Visigoths had ruled almost all of Hispania since 415 when they drove out the Vandals who taken control of the province from Rome; ironically it was to North Africa the Vandals fled.  The Visigoth king had once been elected but, as happens in kingdoms, dynastic habits evolved and had become the practice for the crown to be passed to a son although, that inheritance was subject to the veto of the aristocracy.  Usually the nobles concurred but not always and in 710, upon the death of a king, they intervened to replace the dynasty with new blood.  Conflict between the clans ensued and, although in battle the new king prevailed, it appears part of the settlement was the division of the kingdom.

At that point, matters cease to be history and become the stuff of myth and legend.  From Arabic sources is the story that the Muslims invaded Hispania at the behest of Count Julian of Ceuta, the last Christian governor in North Africa. Ceuta lies on the African coast just south of Gibraltar and Julian, who may have been Berber, or Germanic, or Greek and was either a vassal of the Visigoths or a Byzantine governor of North Africa, the records to establish the truth are lost.  Julian had somehow succeeded in holding Ceuta against the Muslim advance and, secure in his city, sent his daughter to Toledo to study at the court of Roderic, the new Visigoth king, which seemed a good idea at the time but within months, Julian was told she was pregnant with Roderic’s child.  Enraged, in 710 Julian approached his former enemies and suggested an invasion of Hispania.  Improbable though this may be, the PR machines on the Muslim and Christian sides were cranked up and offered their own embellishments, the former saying the evil Roderic had raped the poor girl, the latter that the little harlot had seduced poor Roderic.

Julian, it is said, provided provisions, logistical support and intelligence for the assault but little more is known other than it was the name of the general leading the invasion force, Ṭāriq ibn Ziyād (طارق بن زياد in the Arabic) from which the Rock of Gibraltar gained its name, Jabal Ṭāriq (جبل طارق), meaning “mountain of Ṭāriq”.  The invasion was a success but the scale of the military operation is uncertain, medieval writings mentioning forces on both sides in the hundreds of thousands but most historians believe the Muslims had no more than 20,000 troops and the Visigoths perhaps twice that number.

Whatever the numbers, the Visigoths were defeated, Roderic killed in battle.  After the fog of war cleared, the fog of history drifted in and there are many tales to explain how a big army with all the advantages which accrue to defenders could be defeated by a smaller expeditionary force.  Some suggest Roderic didn’t enjoy the loyalty of all his men, many unhappy at his usurpation of the throne but this is contradicted by those who claim the old king was despised by all and that Roderic’s enthronement had been widely celebrated.  Apart from the legal point about the nobles exercising their right to elect a king so it could hardly be said to be a usurpation, the truth of any of this is unknown.  Nor is much known about the battle, military historians tending to conclude the most likely reason for the Arab success was the deployment of fast, mobile, cavalry against static defencs lines in an unrelenting succession of attacks which simply overwhelmed the Visigothic army.

After victory at Guadalete, Ṭāriq didn’t pause, marching on to the Visigothic capital, Toledo before his enemy had time to regroup.  At that point, Musa bin Nusayr, Ṭāriq’s commanding officer, shocked at the rapidity of the advance and anxious to grab for himself the glory of victory, assembled “reinforcements” and hastened across the strait to assume personal command.  Musa didn’t long get to bask in the glow of Ṭāriq’s triumph, the Caliph, Ibrahim ibn al-Walid (ابراهيم ابن الوليد بن عبد الملك‎), soon recalling them both to Damascus where they would live out their days.  This narrative, though widely told, is disputed, some claiming the two soldiers had a harmonious relationship and some saying that while there were disputes, they were later reconciled.  Again, it’s all lost to history.

One military legacy of the conquest of their conquest of the Iberian Peninsula was one hardly noticed at the time and dismissed as insignificant by those who did.  The one area which did not fall to them was the tiny northern kingdom of Asturias and it was from this postage stamp of a renegade province that one day would form the political and geographic base for the Reconquista, the eventual re-imposition of Christian control over Iberia.

American Sapphic, Lindsay Lohan & former special friend Samantha Ronson by Ben Tegel after American Gothic (1930) by Grant Wood (1891-1942).

Cybernetic

Cybernetic (pronounced sahy-ber-net-ik)

(1) Of or relating to cybernetics (the theoretical study of communication and control processes in biological, mechanical, and electronic systems, especially the comparison of these processes in biological and artificial systems).

(2) Of or relating to computers and the Internet (largely archaic (ie "so 1990s").

1948 (in English): From the Ancient Greek κυβερνητικός (kubernētikós) (good at steering, a good pilot (of a vessel)), from κυβερνητική τέχνη (kubernētikḗ tékhnē) (the pilot’s art), from κυβερνισμός (kubernismós) or κυβέρνησις (kubérnēsis) (steering, pilotage, guiding), from κυβερνάω (kubernáō) (to steer, to drive, to guide, to act as a pilot (and the ultimate source of the Modern English "govern").  Cybernetic & cybernetical are adjectives, cybernetics, cyberneticist & cybernetician are nouns and cybernetically is an adverb; the noun cybernetics is sometimes used as a plural but functions usually as a as singular (used with a singular verb)  

Although it's undocumented, etymologists suspect the first known instance of use in English in 1948 may have been based on the 1830s French cybernétique (the art of governing); that was in a paper by by US mathematician and philosopher Norbert Wiener (1894-1964) who was influenced by the cognate term "governor" (the name of an early control device proposed by Scottish physicist James Clerk Maxwell (1831–1879)), familiar in mechanical devices as a means of limiting (ie "governing") a machine's speed (either to a preferred rate or a determined maximum).  That was obviously somewhat different from the source in the original Greek kubernētēs (steersman) from kubernan (to steer, control) but the idea in both was linked by the notion of "control".  The French word cybernétique had been suggested by French physicist and mathematician André-Marie Ampère (1775-1836), (one of the founders of the science of electromagnetism and after whom is named the SI (International System of Units) unit of measurement of electric current, the ampere (amp)) to, describe the then non-existent study of the control of governments; it never caught on.  From cybernetics came the now ubiquitous back-formation cyber which has, and continues, to coin words, sometimes with some intellectual connection to the original, sometimes not: cybercafé, cybercurrency, cybergirlfriend, cybermania, cybertopia, cyberculture, cyberhack, cybermob, cybernate, cybernation, cyberpet, cyberphobia, cyberpunk, cybersecurity, cybersex, cyberspace, cyberfashion, cybergoth, cyberemo, cyberdelic et al.

Feedback

MIT Professor Norbert Wiener was an American mathematician and philosopher and one of the early thinkers developing the theory that the behaviour of all intelligent species was the result of feedback mechanisms that perhaps could be simulated by machines.  Now best remembered for the word cybernetics, his work remains among the foundations of artificial intelligence (AI).

The feedback loop at its most simple.

Cybernetics was an outgrowth of control theory, at the time something of a backwater in applied mathematics relevant to the control of physical processes and systems.  Although control theory had connections with classical studies in mathematics such as the calculus of variations and differential equations, it became a recognised field only in the late 1950s when the newly available power of big machine computers and databases were applied to problems in economics and engineering.  The results indicated the matters being studied manifested as variants of problems in differential equations and in the calculus of variations.  As the computer models improved, it was recognised the theoretical and industrial problems all had the same mathematical structure and control theory emerged.  The technological determinism induced by computing wasn’t new; the embryonic field had greatly been advanced by the machines of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Cybernetics can be represented as a simple model which is of most use when applied to complex systems.  Essentially, it’s a model in which a monitor compares what is happening with what should be happening, this feedback passed to a controller which accordingly adjusts the system’s behavior.  Wiener defined cybernetics as “the science of control and communications in the animal and machine”, something quite audacious at the time, aligning as it did the working of machines with animal and human physiology, particularly the intricacies of the nervous system and the implication the controller was the human brain and the monitor, vision from the eyes.  While the inherently mechanistic nature of the theory attracted critics, the utility was demonstrated by some success in the work of constructing artificial limbs that could be connected to signals from the brain.  The early theories underpinned much of the early work in artificial intelligence (AI).

Of cyberpunks and cybergoths

A cyberpunk Lindsay Lohan sipping martinis with Johnny Depp and a silver alien by AiJunkie.

The youth subcultures “cyberpunk” and “cybergoth” had common threads in the visual imagery of science fiction (SF) but differ in matters of fashion and political linkages.  Academic studies have suggested elements of cyberpunk can be traced to the dystopian Central & Eastern European fiction of the 1920s which arose in reaction to the industrial and mechanized nature of World War I (1914-1918) but in its recognizably modern form it emerged as a literary genre in the 1980s, characterized by darkness, the effect heightened by the use of stark colors in futuristic, dystopian settings, the cultural theme being the mix of low-life with high-tech.  Although often there was much representation of violence and flashy weaponry, the consistent motifs were advanced technology, artificial intelligence and hacking, the message the evil of corporations and corrupt politicians exploiting technology to control society for their own purposes of profit and power.  Aesthetically, cyberpunk emphasized dark, gritty, urban environments where the dominant visual elements tended to be beyond the human scale, neon colors, strobe lighting and skyscrapers all tending to overwhelm people who often existed in an atmosphere of atonal, repetitive sound.

Cybergoth girls: The lasting legacy of the cybergoth's contribution to the goth aesthetic was designer colors, quite a change to the black & purple uniform.  Debate continues about whether they can be blamed for fluffy leg-warmers.

The cybergoth thing, dating apparently from 1988, thing was less political, focusing mostly on the look although a lifestyle (real and imagined) somewhat removed from mainstream society was implied.  It emerged in the late 1990s as a subculture within the goth scene, and was much influenced by the fashions popularized by cyberpunk and the video content associated with industrial music although unlike cyberpunk, there was never the overt connection with cybernetic themes.  Very much in a symbiotic relationship with Japanese youth culture, the cybergoth aesthetic built on the black & purple base of the classic goths with bright neon colors, industrial materials, and a mix of the futuristic and the industrial is the array of accessories which included props such as LED lights, goggles, gas masks, and synthetic hair extensions.  Unlike the cyberpunks who insisted usually on leather, the cybergoths embraced latex and plastics such as PVC (polyvinyl chloride), not to imitate the natural product but as an item while the hairstyles and makeup could be extravagantly elaborate.  Platform boots and clothing often adorned with spikes, studs and chains were common but tattoos, piercings and other body modifications were not an integral component although many who adopted those things also opted to include cybergoth elements. 

Although there was much visual overlap between the two, cyberpunk should be thought of as a dystopian literary and cinematic genre with an emphasis on high-tech while cybergoth was a goth subculture tied to certain variations in look and consumption of pop culture, notably the idea of the “industrial dance” which was an out-growth of the “gravers” (Gothic Ravers), movement, named as goths became a critical mass in the clubs built on industrial music.  While interest in cyberpunk remains strong, strengthened by the adaptability of generative AI to the creation of work in the area, the historic moment of cyberpunk as a force in pop culture has passed, the fate of many subcultures which have suffered the curse of popularity although history does suggest periodic revivals will happen and elements of the look will anyway endure.

Chic

Chic (pronounced sheek)

(1) Attractive and fashionable; style and elegance, especially in dress (particularly when applied to women).

(2) Modishness, a casual and understated style, as in dress or décor, that expresses a specified trendy lifestyle or activity.

(3) As a noun, when used with an attributive noun or adjectival modifier, a descriptor for just about any defined style (shabby chic, boho chic etc).

1856: Adopted in English with the general sense of “style in fine art, artistic skill, faculty of producing excellence rapidly and easily”, from the French chic (stylishness; elegant (the original sixteenth century meaning was "subtlety")), of unknown origin but probably from the German Schick (elegant appearance; tasteful presentation) & Geschick (tact, skill, aptness), from Middle Low German schikken (arrange appropriately), from the Middle High German schicken (to outfit oneself, fit in, arrange appropriately), causative of the Middle High German geschehen & geschēn (to happen, rush), from the Old High German giskehan (to happen), from the Proto-West Germanic skehan, from the Proto-Germanic skehaną (to run, move quickly), from the primitive Indo-European skek- (to run, jump, spring).  The Germanic forms were akin to the Dutch schielijk (hasty) & schikken (to arrange) and the Old English scēon (to happen).  The alternative etymology is a link to the French chicane, from chicanerie (trickery) which in the 1610s English picked up as chicanery (legal quibbling, sophistry, mean or petty tricks).

The meaning "Parisian elegance and stylishness combined with originality" emerged in English by 1882, used to convey the sense of a style which was tied specifically to the most identifiably elegant street wear of the ladies of Paris, the influencers of the day noting chic was "an untranslatable word, denoting an indispensable quality"; something of the je ne sais quoi then.  The use as an adjective to describe the appearance of individuals dates from 1879 in English but interestingly, the Oxford English Dictionary (OED) pointed out the use of chic was nowhere near as frequent among French speakers in France although Gustave Flaubert (1821-1880) in Madame Bovary (1857) used chicard (one who is chic), the then current Parisian slang for "classy" before waspishly adding that it was “bourgeoisie”, one indication of why it's as rewarding (and less time-consuming) to read Flaubert as it is Proust (Marcel Proust (1871–1922; author of the multi-volume À la recherche du temps perdu (In Search of Lost Time (1913-1927))).

One adjectival variation was chi-chi (extremely chic, sophisticated) which by 1908 was recorded also as a noun meaning “pretentious fussiness", from the French chichi (airs, fuss).  Etymologists think this, like frou-frou (showy or frilly ornamentation but in its original sense "the rustling of a woman's skirt as it swishes around the legs"), likely imitative.  Chic is either used invariably, in which case the spelling of the plural is chic, or has the plural chics for both the masculine and the feminine forms.  While the spelling chic is correct for the uninflected adjective, all inflected forms are nonstandard (to be correct, inflected forms must be derived from the preferred spelling schick).  The accepted homophones are sheik & sheikh, the pronunciation “chik” is non-standard except when used facetiously.

Lindsay Lohan, 2013 Jingle Ball, New York City.

Chic fills a most narrowly specific niche and is thus without no exact synonym.  Words like exclusive, mod, modern, current, sharp, smart, dap, dapper, dashing, faddish, modish, natty, with it, elegant, stylish, dapper, fashionable, natty, trendy, voguish, fancy, posh, or swank tend in the direction and in many cases run at least in parallel but none quite capture the sense of chic.  Nor are the likely antonyms (inelegant, unfashionable or unstylish helpful; there is unchic but is so rare as to be probably obscure and it’s unnecessary: someone or something is either chic or not.  Chic is a verb & noun, chicly an adverb, chicness a noun and chicer & chicest are adjectives.  The noun chic is very often used with an attributive noun or adjective modifier, indicating the kind of style, such as boho-chic, heroin-chic, shabby-chic, eco-chic, geek-chic, radical-chic, porno-chic, communist-chic, terrorist-chic, Ayatollah-chic, scruffy-chic, super-chic, uber-chic, goth-chic, ultra-chic, industrial-chic et al.  There were also forms designed deliberately to insult such as chav-chic (also in the form council house-chic), gypsy-chic & hillbilly-chic.  Chiconomics was a clever coining which deconstructed the ways of looking chic on a budget and très chic was a way to emphasize the French connection.

Heroin chic

Anjelica Huston photographed by Bob Richardson, 1971.

Heroin chic, an aesthetic characterized by a painfully thin (preferably tall) build, pale skin, dark circles under the eyes, disheveled hair and a vacuous, haunted expression, was first noted in the late 1980s before the following decade becoming prominent in the modeling industry, an allusion not only to (a not actually typical) the look of an addict but also the alleged popularity of the drug in the business.  However, the look wasn’t new, examples existing from the early twentieth century and Bob Richardson (1928-2005) photographed Anjelica Huston (b 1951) very much in the mode as early as 1971.

When first coined, heroin chic was intended as a criticism but, in the democratic way English works, it was quickly embraced by popular culture and soon, even in the early days of the internet and long before even embryonic social media platforms, guides were soon circulating, detailing how to achieve the look which, proved so popular they were reprinted in mainstream magazines.  Had it been just a fashionable look it might not have attracted the disapprobation but, for all sorts of reasons (in part related to the symbiotic economics of drug production, distribution and enforcement regimes), the look happened at a time when heroin use in the West spiked, along with a sudden increase in overdoses and drug-related deaths.

Echoes of an earlier chic:  Models at the BCBGMAXAZIRA show, New York Fashion Week, 2012.  BCBGMAXAZIRA (bon chic, bon genre max azira) was created as a Max Azira sub-brand.  Bon chic, bon genre (literally "good style, good attitude") in this context translates as something like the philosophical statement  “dress stylishly and you'll feel self-assured and project confidence".

Itself a reaction to the more voluptuous models in the 1980s, heroin chic departed the catwalks rather abruptly, 1997 noted as the end-point, induced by what was a classic moral panic, ostensibly in reaction to a general concern about heroin use and overdoses but really triggered by the drug-related deaths of a number of white pop-culture celebrities.  Although seemingly oblivious to the the death-rate among ethnic minorities and the poor, the toll of the high-profile caught the attention of the White House staff and in May 1997, President Clinton became involved, his speech on the subject a carefully choreographed interruption to a prayer breakfast in which he condemned heroin chic, saying “You do not need to glamorize addiction to sell clothes, the glorification of heroin is not creative, it’s destructive. It’s not beautiful; it’s ugly. And this is not about art; it’s about life and death. And glorifying death is not good for any society.”

Still, the thought police can only suppress but not kill an idea.  Given the political pressure, the industry remains too timid to reprise the look on covers or cat-walks but there remains a counter-culture which finds irresistibly alluring the sight of a slender models walking as if in a drug-induced stupor and although it never entirely went away, impressionistically, it does appear heroin-chic is enjoying, on-line and on the street, a post-pandemic renaissance.  The pro-ana community, always supportive of forks of fashion which build on their framework, will sometimes include style-guides but does caution it’s an aesthetic which works only on the thin (you need not be statuesque; any height can work but not any weight).  So, the first goal is to be thin and pro-ana is there to help with any number of guides available and all work but only if rigidly they’re followed.  Techniques can vary but an indicative approach to the mechanics of heroin-chic is:

(1) Get thin.

(2) Begin the process formerly when able successfully to shop in the (US) size zero to one section.  Clothes need to be loose and baggy (if they’re not, return to step (1)).

(3) Never buy anything clingy or with a bare back.  Structurally, the core elements you’re trying to achieve are emaciation and androgyny.

(4) Never buy anything with giant polka dots or made with fabrics of bright colors.  It sounds an unimportant point but is essential; heroin-chic simply doesn’t work with vibrant colors or certain designs.  The preferred colors are black, white, grey, the darker purples and navy blue.

(5) Buy layered items or those made with fluffy fabrics.

(6) Avoid vertical lines unless the stripes are really wide and the color contrasts distinct.

(7) Wear boots wherever possible.

(8) Prime the eyelids, then use a medium to dark brown eye shadow, packing it on to the eyelids.  Unlike the conventional approach to eye-styling, using the fingers is best because it creates an inherently messy finish and the result will inevitably be asymmetric which is good.  When content, add some eye shadow under the eyes and again, strive to achieve coverage but not neatness.

(9) Wait a few minutes (which isn’t a necessity with all eye shadows but there are variations even within the ranges of the one manufacturer.  When ready, run jet-black eye shadow along the top and bottom lash-lines.  This is best done with a small eye shadow brush and, once applied, smudge as desired using the fingers.  Experienced users claim Nyx Cosmetics eyebrow cake is the best product available and for touch-ups or quick corrections, recommend Urban Decay’s 24/7 pencils.

(10) The look is convincing only with clumpy eyelashes.  Take a mascara and use the tip to stick the lashes together, forming something which looks vaguely what you imagine spider legs so treated might resemble.  What you’re after is a variation of what eyelash stylists call “the spiky” except instead of being neatly separated, the lashes are in irregular clumps.

(11) The rest of the make-up should tend to the neutral.  The aim remember is pale skin (avoid exposure to sunlight) so use just a BB cream rather than foundation, accentuated only with just a bronzer to emphasize the shape of the cheekbones.  Illamasqua’s cream pigment is highly regarded.

(12) Perhaps counter-intuitively, the hair needs to be washed and conditioned according to the normal routine (heroin-chic is a look, not a consequence).  The idea is to achieve a stringy, un-kept look but, again counter-intuitively, that can really be constructed only if the hair is clean and well kept and with most hair-types, it’s not difficult using nothing more exotic than inexpensive product such as spray, wax or fudge.  In most cases the styling technique is a variation of what hair-dressers call the JBF but because hair types vary, you may need to experiment.  However it’s done, heroin-chic works best with straight hair so, if you’re after the optimal look, straighten first.

(13) There’s no consensus about which color should be used on the lips or even if it should be glossy or matt.  However, unlike the eyes, lip-stick should be applied with precision; it’s just a convention of use.

(14) Juxtaposition.  As a look, heroin-chic works only if at a second glance it's apparent everything is expensive (think of it as a sub-set of shabby chic); it's not something done with cheap clothing and needs a pair of diamond studs and a good watch to complete the effect but jewelry should be chosen with some restraint, too much and it detracts from what is a very specific construction and silver will always work better than gold. 

Caesura

Caesura (pronounced si-zhoor-uh, si-zoor-uh or siz-yoor-uh)

(1) In modern prosody, a break (especially a sense pause), usually near the middle of a verse, and marked in scansion by a double vertical line (‖ or ||).

(2) In classical prosody, a division made by the ending of a word within a foot, or sometimes at the end of a foot, especially in certain recognized places near the middle of a verse.

(3) Any break, pause, or interruption, applied to poetry, music, literature, architecture and any creative work (used even by the odd (presumably literary-minded) coder).

(4) In typography, the technical term for the caesura mark ‖ or ||. (as the virgule (in its obsolete form), a single slash).

(5) In historiography, a measure of history and time; where one era ends and another begins.

1550-1560: From the Latin caesūra (metrical pause; cutting, hewing (literally “a cutting” from caedere (to cut))), from caesus, the perfect passive participle of caedō (I cut down, hew).  The construct was caes(us) (cut; (past participle of caedere)) + -ūra (-ure) (the suffix -ure was from the Middle English -ure, from the Old French -ure, from the Latin -tūra and was used to create a word meaning (1) a process; a condition; a result of an action or (2) an official entity or function.  In Classical Latin, the caesura was "a metrical pause” from the primitive Indo-European kae-id- (to strike"), used as "the division of a metrical foot between two words, a break within a foot caused by the end of a word" as opposed to a diaeresis which was “a pause between feet”.  Technically, caesura can be used as a synonym for pause, break, rest, interval, interruption, intermission, lull interlude, hiatus and even (in certain contexts), lacuna; however, it's an obscure word and use is better restricted to its traditional purposes; as a general principle, plain, simple and well-understood words are best.  The now obsolete alternative spellings were cesura & cæsura and other languages use variations including the Catalan cesura, the Dutch cesuur and the French césure.  Caesura is a noun and caesural & caesuric are adjectives; the noun plural is caesuras or caesurae.

Although others have co-opted it, the usual purpose of a caesura is the technical description a pause or break in poetry, dictated by the natural rhythm of the language and enforced by punctuation (as opposed to the demands of meter although critics do complain modern poets have been inclined to impose in idiosyncratic ways).  A line may have more than one caesura or it may have none and structurally, it close to the beginning it’s called the initial caesura; if near the middle it’s the medial and if towards the end, the terminal and in English writing, the medial is by far the most common.  For those really immersed in literary theory, an accented (masculine) caesura follows an accented syllable and an unaccented (feminine) caesura an unaccented syllable.  So rigid were the conventions of use in the Old English that it was unusual for a line not to have a medial caesura as a half-line marker, the technique appearing throughout Beowulf:

þær mæg nihta gehwæm || niðwundor seon,

fyr on flode. || No þæs frod leofað

gumena bearna, || þæt þone grund wite;

ðeah þe hæðstapa || hundum geswenced,

heorot hornum trum, || holtwudu sece,

Traditionalists like William Langland (circa 1332–circa 1386), brought up in the alliterative school, maintained the model: Pier’s Ploughman (circa 1377):

Loue is leche of lyf || and nexte owre lorde selue

And also þe graith gate || þat goth in-to heuene;

English thus owes a debt to Geoffrey Chaucer (circa 1344-1400) who developed the iambic pentameter which allowed set verse free to adopt the rhythms and cadences of language as it was spoken: Prologue to The Canterbury Tales (circa 1380-1390):

With him ther was his sone, || a yong Squier

A lovyere || and a lusty bacheler,

With lokkes crulle || as they were leyd in presse.

Chaucer of course wouldn’t have had modernism in mind but he might have approved: Mirror (1961) by Sylvia Plath (1932-1963):

I am silver and exact. || I have no preconceptions.

Whatever I see I swallow immediately

Just as it is, || unmisted by love or dislike

I am not cruel, || only truthful

The eye of a little god, || four-cornered

Most of the time I meditate on the opposite wall.

It is pink, with speckles. || I have looked at it so long

I think it is part of my heart. || But it flickers.

Faces and darkness separate us over and over.

Now I am a lake. || A woman bends over me,

Searching my reaches for what she really is.

Then she turns to those liars, || the candles or the moon.

I see her back, and reflect it faithfully.

She rewards me with tears and an agitation of hands.

I am important to her. || She comes and goes.

Each morning it is her face that replaces the darkness.

In me she has drowned a young girl, || and in me an old woman

Rises toward her day after day || like a terrible fish.

Sylvia Plath in Paris, 1956.

Golgotha

Golgotha (pronounced gol-guh-thuh or gol-goth-uh)

(1) In the Bible’s canonical Gospels, the hill near Jerusalem on which Jesus Christ was crucified; the ancient (and now alternative) name for Calvary.

(2) A place of suffering, sacrifice or martyrdom.

(3) A place of burial (rare and usually without an initial capital).

(4) In eighteenth & nineteenth century Oxbridge slang, rooms of the heads of the colleges (obsolete).

(5) In UK slang, a hat (an allusion to "the place of the skulls" (obsolete)).

(6) A charnel house (an alternative name for a crypt or ossuary).

(7) In the Eastern Orthodox Church, a representation of Christ crucified.

1590–1600: From the Late Latin Golgotha, from the Ancient Greek Γολγοθᾶ (Golgothâ) from the Aramaic (Semitic) גּוּלְגּוּלְתָּא‎ (gulgultā) (literally “place of the skull”) and cognate with the Hebrew gulgōleth (skull).  The hill gained the name because its shape was skull-like.  In Dutch the spelling was originally Golgota which influenced use in some early English translations of the Bible.  The use of Calvary to refer to the mount on which Christ was crucified dates from the late fourteenth century.  It was from the Latin Calvariae, Calvariae & Calvaria (related to calvus (bald)), from the Ancient Greek Kraniou topos, a translation of the Aramaic gulgultā and the Old English used Heafodpannan stow as a loan-translation.

A cleaning woman on the steps of Munich's Roman Catholic Cathedral, washing a carving of Christ crucified on his Cross, Munich, 1939.  In the Eastern Orthodox Church, these installations are called Golgothas.

Historians agree Golgotha lay immediately beyond Jerusalem's city walls but there’s no certainty about the exact location although the tradition of pilgrimage has since the early Medieval period focused on the southern chapels of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, probably because the site received the imperial imprimatur within a century of Rome adopting Christianity.  However, speculation has always been encouraged by the apparently contradictory passages in surviving texts which can be interpreted in different ways, thus the suggestions of alternative sites, a matter of some interest to scholars in the field but ignored usually by most of Christendom for whom the Church of the Holy Sepulchre has for so long been a place of veneration.  Beginning in the nineteenth century, there have been archeological excavations but, two-thousand years on, the fragments and remains unearthed have provided only material for speculative interpretation.

The uncertainty about the exact location of Golgotha casts no doubt on the crucifixion of Jesus Christ as a historical event, described in the Book of Mark 15:22-27 (King James Version (KJV (1611)):

And they bring him unto the place Golgotha, which is, being interpreted, The place of a skull.  And they gave him to drink wine mingled with myrrh: but he received it not.  And when they had crucified him, they parted his garments, casting lots upon them, what every man should take.  And it was the third hour, and they crucified him.  And the superscription of his accusation was written over, THE KING OF THE JEWS.  And with him they crucify two thieves; the one on his right hand, and the other on his left.

From what was done of the slopes of Golgotha followed the resurrection, the central event of Christianity and the only vital component for if one accepts the story of the resurrection then Christianity makes sense.  If one’s faith can’t make that leap, Christianity is just another of the competing constructs of moral theology. 

For if we believe that Jesus died and rose again, even so them also which sleep in Jesus will God bring with him.  For this we say unto you by the word of the Lord, that we which are alive and remain unto the coming of the Lord shall not prevent them which are asleep.  For the Lord himself shall descend from heaven with a shout, with the voice of the archangel, and with the trump of God: and the dead in Christ shall rise first:  Then we which are alive and remain shall be caught up together with them in the clouds, to meet the Lord in the air: and so shall we ever be with the Lord.  Wherefore comfort one another with these words.  1 Thessalonians 4: 14-18 (King James Version (KJV (1611)).

Canada's Golgotha (1918), sculpture in bronze by Francis Derwent Wood RA (1871-1926), photograph by F Hilaire d'Arcis (1845-1935), Royal Academy of Arts Collection, London.

Canada's Golgotha is a sculpture in bronze depicting a Canadian soldier allegedly crucified on a barn door in occupied Belgium, surrounded by the jeering German troops responsible for the atrocity, said to have taken place in 1915.  There was during the First World War (1914-1918) an extensive catalogue of atrocity stories including some quite graphical imagery and there were an accepted part of the propaganda efforts on both sides of the conflict but the event carved by Wood was never verified, the contemporary witness statements later discredited.  Immediately after the end of hostilities, the German government objected to the sculpture being put on public display unless documentary evidence could be produced which proved the incident took place.  The Canadian government asserted such evidence was in their hands but declined to furnish copies which provoked further complaints from Berlin and ultimately, the sculpture was withdrawn from the exhibition.  It was kept in storage until 1992 and has since been exhibited though the curators were careful to explain the work was to be treated as an example of Christian art rather than something part of the historic record of war.  That didn’t prevent controversy.

Controversial too was the event remembered as the Nemmersdorf massacre, a series of atrocities against civilians perpetrated by Red Army soldiers during their advance into East Prussia in October 1944.  The German army swiftly (though temporarily) retook Nemmersdorf and gathered evidence of the violence, including a number of crucified bodies.  The material was passed to the Nazi Propaganda Ministry which immediately organized a publicity campaign illustrating this “Bolshevik Barbarism”, intending to inculcate the population with a fanatical desire to resist lest they suffer a similar fate.  However, there were still memories of the false atrocity stories from the earlier war and the Nazi’s propaganda efforts, increasingly disconnected from reality, had come to be regarded by many as the “fake news” of the day and the most notable consequence of the campaign was panic and a flood of civilians evacuating the eastern territories to trek west.