Showing posts sorted by relevance for query Vamp. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query Vamp. Sort by date Show all posts

Saturday, October 31, 2020

Vamp

Vamp (pronounced vamp)

(1) The portion of a shoe or boot upper that covers the instep and toes.

(2) Something patched up or pieced together (rare).

(3) In music, an accompaniment, usually improvised, consisting of a succession of simple chords.

(4) A seductive (and not necessarily conventionally attractive) woman who uses her sensuality to exploit men.  In this context a clipping of vampire.

(5) To use feminine charms upon; to seduce.

(6) Slang for vampire (rare, presumably to avoid confusion with vampish women).

(7) Modern urban slang for the act of leaving an area or scene, due usually to wishing no longer to be there.

(8) Modern urban slang for late (or all) night sessions, an allusion to the nocturnal habits of vampires.

1175-1225: From Middle English vampe, borrowed from Anglo-French vaumpé and Old French avantpié (front part of a shoe (hence, something patched)), from avant (to the fore, front) + pié (foot) derived from the Latin pēs.  As applied to music, meaning dates from 1789 but from the early twentieth-century associated mostly with jazz.  Popular usage, as a descriptor of the seductive femme fatale, was first noted in 1911, derived from film and theatre performances inspired by the Kipling poem, The Vampire.  Vamper is verb and noun, vampish the adjective.  The term "re-vamp" (updating or refreshing something) is based upon the use by cobblers (to replace the vamp in a shoe).

The etiquette of toe cleavage

Analogous with other displays, toe cleavage is the partial exposure of toes in shoes cut low at the vamp and specialists in the field have offered opinions.  Noted shoe stylist Manolo Blahnik, although an early advocate, urged some restraint in suggesting one should show “…only the first two cracks" but, given anatomical variation and the production-line standardization of all but the rare bespoke creations, it’s a rule difficult to enforce.  Christian Louboutin, he of the red soles, is less prescriptive, liking toe cleavage and more rather than less.  His designs emphasize the curved form of the foot, the instep, and he tends to conceal “…the heel and reveal the arch, culminating in a low-cut vamp."  Vogue’s venerable editor Anna Wintour, doesn’t specify how much toe cleavage should be displayed but agrees it’s an essential part of a voguette’s dress code; her point being the look "must never be combined with stockings".

Vampish: Lindsay Lohan’s ample toe cleavage on show in Christian Louboutin stilettos.  Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Madrid, 2014.

Saturday, May 16, 2020

Vampire

Vampire (pronounced vam-pahyuh)

(1) A preternatural being, commonly believed to be a reanimated corpse, said to suck the blood of sleeping persons at night.

(2) In the folklore of the Balkans, Eastern & Central Europe, a corpse, animated by an un-departed soul or demon, that periodically leaves the grave and disturbs the living, until it is exhumed and impaled or burned.

(3) A person who preys ruthlessly upon others; an extortionist or blackmailer.

(4) A woman who unscrupulously exploits, ruins, or degrades the men she seduces (usually truncated to vamp although nuances in meaning exist).  Despite many early references, vampiress and vampirina never caught on.

(5) A type of blood-sucking bat.

(6) A species of crab.

(7) In the theatre, a stage trapdoor.

(8) In medicine, a colloquial term for a patient suffering from systemic lupus erythematosus, with effects such as photosensitivity and brownish-red stained teeth.

1732: From the now archaic vampyre (spectral being in a human body who maintains semblance of life by leaving the grave at night to suck the warm blood of the living as they sleep), from the French vampire and German vampir, from the Hungarian (Magyar) vampir, from the Old Church Slavonic opiri (related to the Serbo-Croatian vampir, Bulgarian vapir & Ukrainian uper).  The Serbian vàmpīr, was an alteration of earlier upir (by confusion with doublets such as vȁzdūh, ȕzdūh and with intrusive nasal, as in dùbrava, dumbrȁva (grove)) and was related to the Czech upír, the Polish upiór, the Old Russian upyrĭ & upirĭ and the Russian upýr.  Some etymologists suggest the ultimate source was the Kazan Tatar ubyr (witch) but not all agree, many suggesting a Macedonian origin more probable.  An Eastern European creature popularized in English by late nineteenth century gothic novels but scattered English accounts of night-walking, blood-gorged, plague-spreading un-dead corpses have been traced back to 1196 and few doubt there was an oral tradition long pre-dating this.  Influenced by the literature, the blood-sucking bat was named in 1774 by the French gentlemen scientist, Georges-Louis Leclerc, the Comte de Buffon (1707–1788).  Related adjectival forms are vampiric and vampirish, the noun vampirism dating from 1737.

In Among the Shadows (2020 (released in some markets as The Shadow Within)), Lindsay Lohan played a vampire (top left), one married to a European Union (EU) politician no less and it’s hard to imagine a more complementary relationship.  In May 2011, Lindsay Lohan was the subject of a vampire-themed session by photographer Tyler Shields (b 1982), called Life is not a fairytale.

The figurative sense of "person who preys on others" is from 1741, the idea of “one who sucks money from others” being little worse than “one who sucks their blood”.  The word vamp (a seductive woman who uses her charms to exploit men" dates from 1911 and was short for vampire; it’s entirely unrelated to the earlier term “vamp” from the trade of cobbling.  Dracula was the name of the vampire king in Bram Stoker's (1847-1912) Gothic horror novel Dracula (1897), a borrowing from Prince Vlad III of Wallachia (circa 1430-circa 1477; remembered in English as Vlad the Impaler and in Romania (where he is celebrated as a national hero) as Vlad Drăculea.

It was Lord Byron (1788-1824) who did most to popularize in Western literature all things vampiric in his epic poem The Giaour (1813), but it was John Polidori (1895-1921) who in 1819 authored the first true vampire story, called The Vampyre.  Polidori was Byron’s personal physician and the vampire of the story, Lord Ruthven, is based partly on him and the "ghost story competition" that spawned this piece was the same contest which tempted Mary Shelley (1797-1851) to write her 1818 Gothic novel Frankenstein (or The Modern Prometheus).  Other early texts include Samuel Taylor Coleridge's (1772-1834) unfinished poem Christabel (circa 1799) and Sheridan Le Fanu's (1814-1873) lesbian vampire story, Carmilla (1872) which remains influential to this day in the depiction of vampires but it’s Bram Stoker's Dracula which remains the definitive version in popular fiction.  The portrayal of vampirism as a disease of contagious demonic possession, with an undertone of sex, blood, and death, suited the zeitgeist of Victorian Europe where tuberculosis, syphilis, typhoid and cholera were common.

On screen, the best evocations of the vampiric remain the Nosferatu films, especially the 1979 re-make of the 1922 original.  Aspiring vampires meet here:

De Havilland Vampire (DH-100) Mark 1.

The de Havilland Vampire was a British jet fighter.  Although development began as early as 1941 and the aircraft first flew in 1943, the problems associated with jet propulsion meant it entered service too late to see combat during World War II, the first Vampires delivered to Royal Air Force (RAF) squadrons only in 1946.  The second jet fighter to be operated by the RAF (the first the Gloster Meteor), it was the first powered by a single engine, a configuration delayed in development because of the poor thrust delivered by the early jets and the Vampire was one of a number of aircraft released in the late 1940s which straddled the engineering and aeronautical practices of the propeller and jet eras of fighters.  The jet engine and the unusual twin-boom configuration aside, it was a conventional design, borrowing much from de Havilland’s wartime practices which had proved so effective including the use of molded plywood for the frame, assembled as a glued sandwich to which was attached the aluminum skin.

De Havilland Vampire (DH 113) NF10 prototype G-5-2.

The hybrid of old and new was a product of so much of the design work having been completed before an understanding of the advantages and possibilities of the swept wing pioneered by the Germans, notably with the Messerschmitt 262, had been gained.  Without a swept wing, the Vampire would never achieve the performance of the more cutting edge designs which increasingly appeared in the late 1940s and was the last really simple interceptor to serve with the RAF.  Despite that, for most of its operational life it was far from obsolescent and remained in front-line service until 1953, during which it set altitude records and was the first jet to fly a trans-Atlantic flight; the Sea Vampire naval variant being in December 1945 the first jet to take off from and land on an aircraft carrier.  The last Vampires were retired from RAF service in 1966 but foreign services maintained them in operational use much longer, the Swiss using them still in the 1980s.  Almost 3300 were built and their simplicity and ease of maintenance has meant many now in private hands continue to fly.

Vampire hunting used to be a thing (and debatably should still be) and for enthusiasts, Affiliated Auctions & Realty recently offered an early nineteenth century vampire slaying kit, fitted in a violin case.  The kit includes a bronze crucifix, two wooden stakes, a 15 inch (380 mm) dagger with tusk grip, sterling pommel & bolster and nickel cross-guard, a flintlock pistol with engraved barrel and functioning stock, a brass powder horn in the style of a swimming fish, a hardwood mallet (for driving stakes through the heart), a brass container for shot powder, a wooden container for silver-shot balls, a glass holy water bottle (without seam lines) and a Holy Bible with mother of pearl inlay.

Nosferatu (1979) trailer. 

Tuesday, October 5, 2021

Pump

Pump (pronounced puhmp)

(1) An apparatus or machine for raising, driving, exhausting, or compressing fluids or gases by means of a piston, plunger, or set of rotating vanes.

(2) An instance of the action of a pump; one stroke of a pump; any action similar to pumping.

(3) In engineering or building trades, a shore having a jackscrew in its foot for adjusting the length or for bearing more firmly against the structure to be sustained.

(4) In the slang of the biological sciences, an animal organ that propels fluid through the body; the heart.

(5) In cell biology, a system that supplies energy for transport against a chemical gradient, as the sodium pump for the transfer of sodium and potassium ions across a cell membrane.

(6) To raise, drive or free from fluids by means of a pump.

(7) To inflate something with a gas or viscous substance and used analogously in other contexts.

(8) To operate or move by an up-and-down or back-and-forth action.

(9) Several types of shoe, with much variation in the way the description is applied.

(10) In bodybuilding and climbing, a swelling of the muscles caused by increased blood flow following high intensity weightlifting; a specific type of exercise routine offered by gyms; as “pump iron” a generalised phrase to refer to weight-lifting.

(11) In colloquial use, a ride on a bicycle given to a passenger, usually on the handlebars or carrier (rare).

(12) In US slang, the heart, (obsolete).

(13) In (vulgar) UK slang, the vagina (obsolete).

(14) In the slang of (pre-pandemic) social interaction, vigorously to shake a hand (often as "pumping the flesh").

(15) In slang, as “pump for information”, relentlessly to question.

(16) In the slang of computer programming, to pass messages to a program so it may respond.

(17) In cosmetic surgery or non-surgical beauty treatment, as "pumped up", a general term to describe body parts (lips, breasts etc) made plumper with some artificial substance or the redistribution of the body’s natural fat deposits.

(18) In ballistics, as “pump-action”, a design which permits the rapid loading a shell or cartridge from a magazine.

1400-1450:  From the Late Middle English pumpe, cognate with Middle Low German pumpe and Middle Dutch pompe (water conduit, pipe).  Later variations were the Dutch pompen, the German pumpen, and the Danish pompe.  All are thought derived from the Spanish bomba of imitative origin, the source thought to be North Sea sailors, either an imperfect echoic or something imitative of the sound of the plunger in the water.  The earliest use in English was in reference to a device to raise and expel bilge water from ships and the Late Old French pompe probably is from something Germanic.  The mystery is that pumps are ancient machines so the late appearance in the Germanic word is odd in that no evidence has been found of a previous descriptive word.  The use as an "an act of pumping" is attested from the 1670s.  Pump & pumping are nouns & verbs, pumper is a noun, pumpy is a noun & adjective and pumped is a verb & adjective; the noun plural is pumps.

Pump-action, in reference to a type of repeating firearm equipped with a rapid loading mechanism is attested in advertisements from 1912 but it’s unknown whether this was an invention by a manufacturer or retailer or an adoption of existing slang.  The metaphoric extension in pump (someone) for information is from 1630s.  To pump iron as a term for the lifting of weights for fitness was first noted in 1972; pump-classes in gyms became popular in the 1990s although label wasn’t (virtually) universal until circa 2002.  The meaning “low shoe without fasteners" dates from the 1550s and is of unknown origin but was perhaps (very speculatively) echoic of the sound made when walking in them or, more plausibly, from Dutch pampoesje (type of sandal worn in the Dutch East Indies), derived from the Javanese pampoes and ultimately of Arabic origin.  Some sources propose a connection with pomp but it’s undocumented.  The name pump was applied to many shoes with a very low heel, convenient in situations where freedom of movement was required and thus preferred by dancers, couriers, acrobats, duellists and such.  In the shoe business, the definition soon wandered with differences noted between British and North American applications.

The now obsolete nineteenth century phrase “keep your toes in your pump” was dialectal for "stay calm, keep quiet, don't get excited", in the same sense as advice not to “get your knickers in a knot”, the latter which has survived.  In slang, to "be pumped" is (1) to be excited in anticipation of something, (2) having muscles in an engorged state following exercise, (3) in body-building, having muscles which have responded as expected to steroids or other drugs, (4) in rock-climbing, being severely fatigued, (5) in cosmetic surgery & certain non surgical treatments, having a fuller appearance (lips, breasts etc) by virtue of the insertion of implants or an injection of some chemical and (6) among models and other women, the sense of relief upon replacing fetching but uncomfortable shoes with a pair of welcoming and accommodating pumps.

Of pumping ship

Pumps are of great importance on ships because of the need quickly to be able to remove unwanted water from inside a hull.  At sea, when a ship is "taking on water", if pumps fail or the entry of water exceeds pumping capacity, a ship will become unstable and it may sink.  In the smallest vessels, hard-pumps are used while mechanical devices are installed on anything larger than a modest dinghy.  In admiralty jargon, the command “Pump Ship!” is an instruction to begin pumping with all pumps and, in the way sailors adapt such things, it entered naval vernacular as the phrase meaning “I intend to urinate”.

It was picked up by nautical types in civilian life but was probably unknown to most until the publication (in three volumes, 2021-2022) of the unexpurgated diaries of Sir Henry "Chips" Channon (1897–1958), a US-born English MP and socialite who quickly became "more English than the English".  Edited by Dr Simon Heffer (b 1960), the entry of interest was from 19 November 1936 when Channon hosted one of his many glittering dinners in the dining room designed by Parisian interior decorator Stéphane Boudin (1888–1967, his House of Jansen later decorating the White House for Jacqueline Kennedy (1929-1994; US First Lady 1961-1963)) and modelled on the interior of the Amalienburg, an eighteenth century hunting lodge in on the grounds of the Nymphenburg Palace Park outside Munich, a place notorious for the intricacy of its fittings, even by the standards of Rococo.  The Amalienburg was built for someone who would later be Holy Roman Emperor, just the sort of crew with whom Channon identified and he had the elaborate style replicated in the dining room of his London house in Belgrave Square, including even the Bavarian national colors of blue & silver.  Unfortunately, no color photographs appear to have survived and the room was later disassembled, the extendable mirrored table, which could expand to a length of 25 feet (7.7 m), occasionally offered at auction.  By all accounts, the room truly was “breathtaking” and it was one of the few things in life of which Channon could find no grounds for criticism, it living up to his expectation it would “shimmer in blue and silver” and “shock and stagger London”.  For that alone he seemed to think the Stg£6,000 (mostly money he had married) cost (some Stg£525,000 adjusted for 2023) well worth it.  To illustrate the relativities, the next year he would purchase a 7.3 litre (447 cubic inch) V12 Rolls-Royce Phantom III (1936-1939) for a sum (Stg£1900 for the chassis & another Stg£1100 to have a coach-builder fabricate a body) which would then have bought six houses in a middle-class London suburb although it’s not known if that’s something he’d have known, “middle class” being about the worst thing he could think to say of anyone.

Dining Room with table in eight-place configuration, 5 Belgrave Square, London, circa 1937.

On that November evening the guest of honor was King Edward VIII (1894–1972; King of the UK & Emperor of India January-December 1936, subsequently Duke of Windsor) and Channon noted in his diary his surprise at the monarch’s “modern” turn of phrase when he rose and announced “I want to pump shit.”  A dutiful host, Channon recorded he “…led His Majesty to our loulou! He proceeded to pass water without shutting the door, talking to me the while”.  That fragment of royal history was printed in the first volume (2021) of the published diaries (it was a measure of the deference which still applied in the England of 1965 that when first they appeared in heavily redacted form the passage was omitted) but comments soon appeared suggesting neither Channon nor Dr Heffer were well-acquainted with the sailors' slang the king would have learned during his brief naval career.  Dr Heffer responded by examining closely the original entry in the diarist’s hand and concluded the relevant character really was a “t” and not a “p” so the words on the night were either “misheard or misunderstood” and there’s little doubt what was said was “pump ship” and not “pump shit”.  He added that like Channon, he had “no naval connections” and was as thus just as “unfamiliar with the sea-dog slang” but that when the paperback edition was proofed, the text would be changed and an explanatory footnote (the diaries worth reading just for Heffer’s detailed footnotes) added.  Rising to the occasion, he observed this meant the “the hardback edition is destined to become a collector's item.”  The dinner proved the apogee of Channon’s social life because he’d backed the wrong royal horse, Edward VIII abdicating within weeks of having pumped ship in Belgrave Square.  

Of pumping breasts

Illustration of breast pump types by Pregnancy Birth & Baby.

Unambiguously, breast pumps do exactly what is said on the tin: They pump milk from the breasts.  Confounding the expectations of some, there is no direct correlation between breast size and the volume of milk produced; as a general principle, all else being equal (general health, stress levels, nutrition etc), the determining factor is the performance of the milk glands.  Breasts are comprised mostly of (1) glandular tissue (which produces milk) and (2) fatty tissue (which determines breast size), it being the glandular tissue which affects milk production, not the overall breast mass.  What most influences milk production is (1) Hormonal balance (prolactin and oxytocins the most significant), (2) the frequency of breast-feeding sessions (the more frequent the feeding (or pumping), the more milk the glands are instructed by the brain to produce (the process works on a supply-and-demand basis), (3) overall health and nutrition and (4), efficiency of latching to the nipple by the baby (inefficient latching can affect the supply & demand curve).  There is though some (sketchy) evidence to suggest women with larger breasts enjoy a greater “milk storage capacity” so, although they don’t produce more, they might have more of a “buffer”, meaning they can go longer between feeding or pumping.

Pumping on the move: A wearable breast pump set (supplied as a pair).

Breast pumps are devices to extract milk from the breasts and can be manually operated (hand pumps) or electric, both of which work by emulating the “sucking” technique of a baby, as opposed to the “hand expressing” method which is simply what for centuries milk-maids did when “milking the cows”.  Whether manual or electric, the basic design of a breast pump includes (1) a suction cup that fits over the nipple, (2) a tube through which the milk flows and (3) a collection bottle.  Generally, women use breast pumps for convenience, the advantage being they can “pump and store”, enabling them to give their babies the advantage of being fed with breast milk without being tied to the time-consuming activity of nursing.  Additionally, women often complain breast-feeding is tiring; to those who will never breast-feed, its sounds a pleasant relaxation rather than anything tiring but they all say it so it must be true.  Milk can be refrigerated and stored for months and there are now “milk banks” where those whose output is extraordinarily high can donate, their surplus output re-distributed to those with low production or who can for whatever reason not successfully breastfeed.  One recent innovation is the battery-powered “wearable pump”, worn inside the bra with the collection bottles directly attached.  Most sites recommend these are best suited to being worn at home, the advantage being one can, hands-free, go about one’s tasks.

Of Pumps, Courts and Flats

Lindsay Lohan in curved-heel stiletto pumps.

The homogenization of English was well-advanced long before the ubiquity of the internet but well into the twentieth century, different meanings for words could evolve in parallel in different regions of the same country, let alone between different states or provinces.  In British English, a court shoe was a woman’s shoe with a low cut vamp, sometimes with no instep fastening and otherwise adorned with a shoe buckle or a bow as an ostensible fastening.  In US English, such a shoe is a pump; pumps and court shoes may or may not have an ankle strap.  Pumps today, on either side of the Atlantic, are almost exclusively worn by women but historically were also formal shoes for men, the male variation called an opera slipper or patent pump.  For men, the pump gained ascendency over the dress boot as modern road-making techniques rendered cities less muddy places and dress pumps remained the standard for evening full-dress until the Second World War.  They remain the usual choice for black tie events and are obligatory with white-tie; the original design with steel-cut buckles, otherwise long extinct, still part of British court uniform and dress.

The construction of pumps is simple, using a whole-cut leather top with a low vamp, lined with either quilted silk or plain leather, trimmed with braid at the opening. The full leather sole is either glued onto the bottom, common on cheaper styles, or sewn, as on more costly bespoke styles still made traditionally, using a shallow slit to lift a flap of leather around the edge to recess and hide the stitching. The sole is, as on ordinary shoes, several layers of leather put together. The bow is made of grosgrain silk or rayon, in a pinched or flat form.  Pumps, which may have an ankle strap, if also constructed with a strap across the instep, are called Mary Janes.

Lindsay Lohan in ballet flats / pumps / slippers.  Ballet pumps in the UK, ballet flats in US English.

Most of the UK fashion business adopted the US use of pump because it simplified the mechanics of trade.  Otherwise, in the UK (and most of the Empire and Commonwealth) a pump implied a flat or low-heel ballet slipper or even rubber-soled canvas plimsolls.  Ballet slippers (now more often called flats) date from the medieval period, their popularity declining in only in the seventeenth century when higher heels became fashionable.  After a brief nineteenth century revival, heals again prevailed until the 1960s when they became suddenly and wildly popular after Brigitte Bardot (1934-2025) appeared in a pair of Rose Repetto’s (1907-1982 hand-stitched ballet flats.  These days, between heals and flats, it seems a draw although the trend increasingly to prefer the comfort of the flat as the years pass is noted.

Lindsay Lohan in kitten-heeled pumps.

Except for court dress, historic references or the exact (if not always enforced) rules for white-tie, there’s now less precision attached to the use of pump and the word should be thought of as referencing a range of closed and open-toed shoes, with and without straps, bows or buckles, the other useful modifier being some reference to the height or type of the heel.  This means anything from a modest kitten to an elongated stiletto and, depending on the airport at which one lands, a flat may be a ballet flat or a ballet pump.

In US use, pumps are exclusively women's shoes with a kitten or higher heel; flats are never pumps and Canada, always more influenced by US linguistic imperialism, followed; that influence is now almost universal and the notion of the flat pump, while not extinct, has declined.  Heels for pumps vary, from the kitten 1-2 inch (25-50 mm) to the stripper (200-250 mm), the bulk of stiletto sales in the 3-5 inch (75-125 mm) range.  They can be made from any material though the classic is patent leather and, under rules formalised by Donald Trump's (b 1946; US president 2017-2021 and since 2025) Miss Universe contests, white, stiletto pumps were once obligatory in the swimsuit section of beauty pageants.  Perhaps surprisingly to some, the swimsuits have survived much criticism as have the stilettos although they're no longer exclusively white and, open-toed and strappy, in most places they wouldn't be thought of as pumps.

Of the Holley Double Pumper

Even in an age when electronic fuel-injection (EFI) has long been the standard form of induction in ICEs (internal combustion engine), there remain silos in which the now arcane languages of carburetors are spoken and while there is some commonality of terms among the shortcuts, abbreviations & euphemisms of these vernaculars, a trained ear can pick the differences between the flavours to tell which dialect (SU, Weber, Holley, Rochester, Carter etc) is in play.  One part of the Holley tongue is “double pumper”.  A Holley double pumper is a four barrel carburettor with two accelerator pumps (the source of the moniker) and a mechanical linkage connecting the primary and secondary sides of the device.  Widely used during the classic era (1964-1974) of the US muscle cars, the main advantage of the design was the twin accelerator pumps prevented the transitory leanness in the fuel-air mixture which could happen during rapid throttle blade movements if only a single pump was fitted.  All multi-barrel carburetors use an accelerator pump circuit but many have only one feeding the primary barrel(s).  These pumps spray a quick shot of the mix to compensate for the split-second lag which will happen before the main circuit fully responds to a throttle pushed suddenly wide open.  All double pumper carburetors use an accelerator pump circuit on both the primary and the secondary sides.

Holley 850 CFM (cubic feet per minute) double pumper carburetor (part number 0-4781C) (left).  The double accelerator pump outlets for both the primary and secondary throttle bores are are arrowed (right), in this case on a HP (high-performance) version in which the choke housing has been removed to optimize the air inlet path, making it less suitable for street use but ideal for competition.

It’s important not to refer to vacuum secondary carburettors (VSC) as any sort of pumper.  A VSC uses a secondary opening controlled by a vacuum diaphragm which opens the secondary barrels only when there is sufficient airflow demand to require it so no accelerator pump is required on the secondary side.  So, a VSC is technically a “single pumper carburettor” but that term is never used and anyone referring to one as such will lose face.  There's also a point of etiquette of which to be aware.  While “VSC” is an accepted term, a double pumper is never referred to as a “DP” because use in the pornography industry has made “DP” exclusively their own and it seems mere politeness not to intrude on their noble linguistic traditions.

Weiland tunnel ram inlet manifold for big block Chevrolet V8 (396-402-427-454) with dual Holley 750 CFM double pumpers.  What the "tunnel ram" did was use the physics of fluid dynamics (ie of the fuel-air mix) to create a slight "forced induction" effect. 

There is an (unverified) industry legend that the "double buffer" terminology adopted in 1991 when Microsoft released version 4 of the Smart Drive (smartdrv.exe) disk cache was the coining of a coder who used a Holley Double Pumper in his (unspecified) muscle car.  That may or may not be true but "double buffer" lives on in the memory management of graphics processing units (GPU) as a description of the temporary storage areas in main memory where data is held during the transfer process.  The trick is that rather than processes being sequential, while program x is being read, program y can be written and vice versa.  It's not exactly quantum mechanics but means things simultaneously are happening in two places; for the gamers for whom GPUs are a fetish, every millisecond matters.

Wednesday, November 17, 2021

Upper

Upper (pronounced uhp-er)

(1) Higher, as in place, position, pitch, or in a scale.

(2) Superior, as in rank, dignity, or station.

(3) In geography (as place or regional names), at a higher level, more northerly, or farther from the sea.

(4) In stratigraphy, denoting a later division of a period, system, or the like, (often initial capital letter).

(5) The part of a shoe or boot above the sole, comprising the quarter, vamp, counter, and lining.

(6) A gaiter; made usually of cloth.

(7) In dentistry, as upper plate, the top of a set of false teeth (dentures), the descriptive prefix for teeth in the upper jaw.

(8) In bicameral parliaments, as upper house (senate, legislative council, House of Lords etc), the body elected or appointed often on a less representative basis than a lower house.

(9) Slang for a stimulant drug, especially an amphetamine, as opposed to the calmative downer.

(10) In mathematics, (of a limit or bound), greater than or equal to one or more numbers or variables.

(11) In Taoism, a spiritual passageway through which consciousness can reach a higher dimension.

1300-1350: From the Old English upp, from the Proto-Germanic upp and cognate with the Old Frisian up, the Old Saxon up, the Old Dutch up, the Old High German ūf and the Old Norse upp.  Similar formations were the Middle Dutch upper, the Dutch opper, the Low German upper and the Norwegian yppare.  The –er suffix (added to verbs to form an agent noun) is from the Middle English –er & -ere, from the Old English -ware (suffix denoting residency or meaning "inhabitant of"), from the Proto-Germanic (w)ārijaz (defender, inhabitant), from the primitive Indo-European wer- (to close, cover, protect, save, defend).  It was cognate with the Dutch -er, the German –er and the Swedish -are.  The Proto-Germanic (w)ārijaz is thought most likely a borrowing from the Latin ārius.

The phrase “upper hand” (advantage) was first noted in the late fifteenth century, possibly the jargon of wrestling (“over-hand” existed with the same meaning nearly two-hundred years earlier and “lower hand” (condition of having lost or failed to win superiority) was documented in the 1690s but both are rare compared with “upper hand).  Upperclassman is recorded from 1871 and upper crust is attested from the mid-fifteenth century in reference to the top crust of a loaf of bread tending to be reserved for the rich.  Upper middle class was in use by 1835 and, in an echo of the modern “one percenters”, “upper ten thousand” appears first in 1844 and was common by mid-century to refer to the wealthier strata of society; a companion term of the time was “uppertendom”.  As a descriptor of the part of a shoe above the sole, use emerged in 1789.  The slang use to describe amphetamines and other pep-pills is an Americanism dated usually from 1968 but which may have been in use earlier; the companion term for drugs with a calmative effect was "downer".

In bicameral parliaments, in almost all systems it's common to refer to "upper" & "lower" houses.  In the democratic age, lower houses evolved to be the places which were most directly representative of the electorate and a member able to gain the support of a majority of those elected to a lower house was able to form a government, a process long almost always mediated through party politics.  Upper houses were more varied in composition, sometimes elected, sometimes appointed (in some cases, for life) and they tended to be representative more or established (and entrenched) interests than the wider electorate.  In federal systems, many upper houses were conceived as representatives and defenders of the rights and interests of the constituent states but in the West, this aspect of the history has been subsumed by the influence of the parties and only in rare cases will the interests of the state transcend party loyalty.  The upper chambers have undergone many changes and one of the oldest, the UK's House of Lords, was radically transformed by the New Labour administration (1997-2010) although its powers had already dramatically been pruned earlier in the twentieth century and no prime-minister has sat in the Lords since 1903, something not again contemplated since the 1920s (and under unusual circumstances in the 1950s).  An exception to the use of upper & lower in the context is in the US where the congress and almost all the state assemblies are bicameral.  In the US, historically, there was no conception of "upper & lower" in that sense, the two being regarded as co-equal but with different roles.  That was influenced both by the circumstances of the origin of the nation and the fact the executive branches are not drawn from the memberships  of the assemblies.  However, in recent decades, the use of "upper house" & "lower house" has crept into use, essentially because the standards of journalism are not what they were and this seems to have infected even some US reporters.  Some systems (notably New Zealand) actually abolished their upper house and from time-to-time there are doubtless a number of prime-ministers elsewhere who wish they could.    

For most of the twentieth century, the landlocked West African nation of Burkina Faso was known as the Upper Volta (the name indicating the land-mass contained the upper part of the Volta River), initially as part of the French colonial empire, later as an independent republic.  A self-governing republic of the French Community between 1958–1960, it was granted full independence in 1960 and re-named Burkina Faso in 1984.  When president, Richard Nixon (1913-1994; US president 1969-1974), used “Upper Volta” sarcastically, as a reference to any unimportant country, especially if he was compelled by the conventions of diplomacy to spend time meeting with their delegations, talking about things in which he just wasn't interested.

Lindsay Lohan wearing Louis Vuitton Star Trail ankle boots, fashioned with a Jacquard textile and glazed calf leather upper, treaded rubber sole, 3.1 inch (80mm) heel and patent monogram-canvas back loop (made in Italy, LV part-number 1A2Y7W, RRP US$1360.00), New York, January 2019.

Tuesday, September 28, 2021

Siren

Siren (pronounced sahy-ruhn)

(1) In classical mythology, one of several sea nymphs, sometimes depicted as part-woman, part-bird (and sometimes as sisters) who, with their seductive singing (their “siren song” or “siren call”), lured mariners to destruction on the rocky shore.

(2) A woman who sings sweetly and charms.

(3) In slang, a seductively beautiful or charming woman, especially one who beguiles men; a seductress, temptress or vamp; a dangerous woman who preys on the weaknesses and susceptibilities (there are a few of both).

(4) An acoustical instrument for producing musical tones, consisting essentially of a disk pierced with holes arranged equidistantly in a circle, rotated over a jet or stream of compressed air, steam or the like, so that the stream is alternately interrupted and allowed to pass.

(5) An variation of this implement, making a piercingly loud sound and used as a whistle, fog signal, or warning device; the sound made by such a device.

(6) In zoology, (1) any of several aquatic, eel-like salamanders of the family Sirenidae, having permanent external gills, small forelimbs and no posterior limbs, (2) a member of Sirenia, an order of mammals or (3) any of various nymphalid butterflies of the genus Hestina.

(7) Anything seductive or tempting (especially if potentially dangerous or harmful (something said to exert “a siren call” on one’s desire).

(8) In music, a musical instrument (one of the few aerophones in the percussion section of the symphony orchestra).

(9) An instrument for demonstrating the laws of beats and combination tones.

(10) In astronomy & astrophysics, an astrophysical event able to be used for calculating cosmic distances.

(11) As “siren suit”, an overall-like one-piece garment introduced in the UK during the “Blitz” as something to be worn by those in air-raid shelters.  

1300-1350: From the Middle English siren & serein, from the Old French sereine, (the Modern French sereine dating from the twelfth century), from the Late Latin sīrēna and the Classical Latin Sīrēn & Sīrēna, from the Ancient Greek Σειρήν (Seirn).  The Seirēnes were the alluring sea nymphs of classical mythology and the figurative sense of “one who sings sweetly and charms” was first noted in the 1580s although the classical descriptions of them were mangled in medieval translations, resulting in some odd and fantastical notions of their appearance and it wasn’t unusual for them to be conflated with mermaids.  The Vulgate (the Biblia Vulgata, the fourth century translation of the Bible which, through the choices of words and senses made by the translator(s) had a profound effect on Christianity and Christendom) also gifted to Middle English the use of the word to describe an imaginary species of flying serpents, based on glossary explanations of the Latin sirenes in Isaiah 13:22 (“And the wild beasts of the islands shall cry in their desolate houses, and dragons in their pleasant palaces: and her time is near to come, and her days shall not be prolonged.”  (King James Version of the Bible (KJV, 1611)).  In the Greek, the word was used also to mean "a deceitful woman" although etymologists note that may have been to suggest she was “a binder, an entangler”, the sense from seira (cord, rope).  In zoology, the mammalian sense appeared first in French in Les entretiens d'Ariste et d'Eugène (Conversations between Ariste & Eugène) by the French Jesuit priest Dominique Bouhours (1628–1702) while the use to describe the aquatic salamander was introduced in 1766 by Swedish zoologist & physician Carl Linnaeus (1707–1778 and styled as Carl von Linné after 1761) for a genus of reptiles.  In organic chemistry, scientists noted the attraction exerted by the sirens of mythology and coined “sirenin” to describe a sexual attraction pheromone in some fungi of the genus Allomyces.  Less charmingly, in early twentieth century Australian urban slang, a “stem siren” was a prostitute; in the Australian way, often it was clipped to “stem”.

The use to describe the mechanical device “making a warning sound” was first recorded in 1879 when they were installed on steamboats and this may have been imitative of the similar French word.  In the course of the twentieth century, the things were adapted as audible warning devices for many purposes including air raids, emergency service vehicles and fire alarms (now mandatory in residential accommodation in many jurisdictions).  In schools, workplaces and other geographically large sites, they were used to mark the start and finish of shifts, lessons, meal breaks etc.  The Elizabethan era (1558-1603) adjectives sirenean, sirenian, sirenic, sirenical & sireny) went extinct but as late as the 1940s, the spelling variation sireen still occasionally appeared and not always as a deliberate archaism.  The writer & critic John Ruskin (1819–1900 and known for his fondness for young. beautiful creatures), used the rare sirenic so with that imprimatur, some modern aesthete might be tempted to revive the form.  Siren is a noun & verb, sirenize is a verb, sirenlike, sirenless, sirenical & sirenic are adjectives; the noun plural is sirens or (the rare) sirenes.

Odysseus and the Sirens

In Greek mythology, the Sirens were sea demons, half-woman and half bird (although there were variants in the tales).  They were said to be the daughters of Achelous and either Melpomene, Sterope or Terpsichore, Phorcys often named as their father, while it was also related they were born of the blood of Achelous when he was wounded by Heracles. There were two Sirens in the Odyssey (Homer’s eighth century BC epic poem following the ten year trek of King Odysseus (Ulysses) returning to his home island Ithaca after the decade-long Trojan War) but in the works of later authors there could be four (more often three).  Historians attribute variations in the myths to (1) authorial innovation or (2) in an age of limited literacy, poetry spread in oral performance, meaning details could become blurred.  What was consistent was the musical virtuosity of the Sirens, a popular depiction of them as a three-piece ensemble, one playing the flute and one the lyre while another sang her songs.

Sirens and the Night (1865), oil on canvas by William Edward Frost (1810-1877).

The Sirens used their lyrical and earthly charms to lure sailors to their death; attracted by the enchanting music and voices, the seduced seafarers would sail their ships too close to the rocky coast of the nymphs' island and there be shipwrecked.  Not untypically for the myths of Antiquity, the Sirens are said to have had many homes.  The Romans said they lived on some small islands called Sirenum scopuli while later authors place them variously on the islands of Anthemoessa, on Cape Pelorum, on the islands of the Sirenuse, near Paestum, or in Capreae.  All were places with rocky coasts and tall cliffs and thus for ships potentially lethal places although the fate of sailors was more gruesome, the Sirens devouring them.  The Argonauts sailed close to the Sirens, but, using the same principle as “radio jamming” in the twentieth century, Orpheus sang as long as the crew was within earshot of them (“drowning out their signal”), so none were lured (except the unfortunate Butes, carried away by Aphrodite after he fell victim).

Temptress in Siren mode: Lindsay Lohan, First Point (2011).

It was Odysseus who most famously escaped the sirens.  Longing to hear their songs but, forewarned by Circe and having no wish to be shipwrecked and devoured, he had his sailors fill their ears with beeswax, rendering them deaf.  Then, he ordered he be tied to the mast, telling his crew that whatever he said, they were not to release him but instead tighten the knots, not cutting the bonds until the ship had sailed far from the coast.  Of course, approaching the rocks, he heard the lovely voices and implored the crew to release him but they followed their skipper’s orders, not setting him free until the danger had passed.  Some writers claimed the Sirens were doomed to die if a man heard their singing and escaped and, as Odysseus sailed off, they flung themselves into the waters and drowned but, among the myths, that was not always their fate.  The idea of the Sirens persists in idiomatic use: the term “siren sound” refers to words or something exerting a particularly compelling attraction but “siren song” or “siren call” can be used of something not directly audible, such as the thoughts evoked by a painting or even a concept; populism, fascism & communism have all been described thus.  That idiomatic use describes an enticing but dangerous appeal, especially a misleading one.

The Roman Poet Ovid (Publius Ovidius Naso; 43 BC–17 AD) wrote that the Sirens were once ordinary girls, companions of Persephone; in his telling they were something “nice girls from good families who got led astray by mixing with the wrong crowd”.  When Persephone was abducted by Pluto, they asked the gods for wings so they could soar in the skies to help them search for their lost companion; that’s the most romantic explanation for the “half-woman and half bird” motif.  More unforgiving writers attributed the transformation to (1) the anger felt by Demeter when the Sirens failed to prevent the abduction of her daughter or (2) the wrath of Aphrodite who sought to deprived them of their feminine beauty because they scorned the pleasures of love.  A twist on that was that after their transformation, they made the mistake of trying to rival the muses who avenged the slight by plucking the Sirens’ feathers.  In a literary sense, the nymphs certainly exerted on authors a siren call.  The tomb of the Siren Parthenope was said to be in Naples, where her body had been cast upon the shore and that geographical connection is in the narrative strand in which Parthenope was a hauntingly beautiful Phrygian girl who fell in love with Metiochus but could not bring herself to break her vow of chastity.  She cut off her hair and ran off into exile in Campania (close to Naples) where she dedicated herself to Dionysus, something possibly the origin of Aphrodite’s disapprobation; it was Aphrodite who turned Parthenope into a Siren as punishment for abandoning her love.  The Sirens were also said to sing for the blessed in the Islands of the Blessed; because they could play the celestial harmonies, they were often depicted on sarcophagi.

First Point (2011) by Richard Phillips (b 1962), hosted by Vimeo by courtesy of Richard Phillips and Gagosian Gallery.  Lindsay Lohan as a siren; it would seem almost a calling.  Screened in conjunction with the 54th international exhibition of the Venice Biennale (June 2011), First Point was a short film said by the diredctor to represent a “new kind of portraiture.”  Filmed in Malibu, California, the piece was included in the Commercial Break series, presented by Moscow's Garage Center for Contemporary Culture (now Garage Museum of Contemporary Art); although the promotional notes indicated it would include footage of the ankle monitor she helped make famous, the device doesn't appear in the final cut.

Directed by: Richard Phillips & Taylor Steele
Director of Photography: Todd Heater
Costume Designer: Ellen Mirojnick
Creative Director: Dominic Sidhu
Art Director: Kyra Griffin
Editor: Haines Hall
Color mastering: Pascal Dangin for Boxmotion
Music: Tamaryn & Rex John Shelverton

The Chrysler Air Raid Siren and the Firepower V8  

According to Guinness World Records, the loudest sirens ever were the 350-odd built in the early 1950s by Chrysler for the US government and installed around the country to warn of an impending nuclear attack by the Soviet Union.  The maximum volume the devices generated was recorded (at a distance of 100 feet (30.5 m)) as 138 dB (decibels), a level at which a human would suffer at least temporary deafness if within around 200 feet (60 m) during operation.  Guinness noted the compressor discharge throughput at peak volume was 74 m³ (2,610 cubic feet at 7 lb per square inch) of air per second and the physics of fluid dynamics (air a fluid in this context) was such this would have caused a sheet of paper in the path spontaneously to ignite.  By comparison the now retired SST (supersonic transport) airline Concorde at take-off produced noise levels between 112-114 dB at a distance of 100 feet and even afterburner equipped military jets (F-16, F-35 etc) haven’t been recorded as generating levels as high as 138 dB.

Although there were ebbs in the tensions, the “High Cold War” is defined usually as the time between the early 1950s and late 1960s, the public's fear of thermo-nuclear war at sometimes acute. In popular culture, the subject was a popular with authors and film-makers, the best known including the book On the Beach (1957) by Neville Shute (1899-1960) and the memorable film Dr. Strangelove or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb (1964), based on the novel Red Alert (1958) by Peter George (1924–1966).  The US government made many preparations for such an event, notably building vast underground facilities where essential personnel (members of the administration, the Congress, their families and servants) could live until it was safe for them to emerge into the post-apocalypse world and stake claim to whatever habitable real-estate remained.  The taxpayers who paid for these facilities were of course rather less protected but the government in 1952 did install warning sirens in cities; people might still be vaporized by comrade Stalin's (1878-1953; Soviet leader 1924-1953) H-Bombs but they would know what was coming so there was that.

US war-room film set for Stanley Kubrick's (1928-1999) film version of Dr Strangelove.  Upon becoming president in 1981, Ronald Reagan (1911-2004, POTUS 1981-1989) was reported as being disappointed nothing quite so dramatic actually existed, the White House's “Situation Room” something like what would be used by an insurance company to conduct sales training seminars.  The story is thought likely apocryphal but there is documentary evidence Mr Reagan did sometimes confuse historic fact with what he's seen in movies.

The early version of the warning siren was co-developed by Chrysler and Bell Labs and named CBVS (Chrysler Bell Victory Siren) which, given the consequences of nuclear war, seems at least optimistic.  Technically, although the acoustic properties met the specification, the drawback was the devices manually were activated and controlled, requiring someone physically to be on-location to start the thing and, being directional, rotate it so the sound would be broadcast 360o.  The obvious flaw in that was, were  there to be a nuclear attack in the area, the job-description, at least potentially, was self-sacrificial, something comrade Stalin doubtless would have thought just the part of the cost of war with the unfortunate patriotic soul posthumously to be awarded the coveted Герой Советского Союза (Hero of the Soviet Union) decoration.  However, neither the White House or the Pentagon liked the optics and revised specifications for the sirens were issued.

Photograph by Rob Storms of Chrysler Air Raid Siren atop Rochester Fire Department Maintenance Building, Rochester, Monroe County, New York.

Chrysler's engineers responded with a more elaborate device, automated and remotely administrated; because it was developed wholly in-house, the corporate-themed acronym CARS (Chrysler Air Raid Siren) was coined.  Introduced in 1952, the new design was powered by Chrysler’s new, 331 cubic inch (5.4 litre) Hemi-head V8, rated at what was then a stellar 180 HP (134 kW), a three-stage compressor added to increase output.  Instead of demanding a doomed operator, there was a control panel connected (with nothing more than the two-pair copper cables that became familiar as Cat3 “phone-wire”) to dedicated phone lines so it could be activated either by local civil defense authorities or the military.  The big V8 provided sufficient power to both increase the dB and the geographical coverage, the siren able to be heard over an area of some 15.8 square miles (41 km2), an impressive number given the electric sirens used today for tornado and tsunami warnings have an effective footprint of only some 3.9 square miles (10 km2).

Chrysler Air Raid Siren being delivered on the back of a Dodge flatbed truck, 1953.

In 1952, there was no engine better suited to the task than Chrysler’s new “FirePower” Hemi V8.  Applying their wartime experience building a number of high-output, multi-cylinder engines (the most remarkable a V16 aero-engine rendered obsolete by jet technology before it could be used), the FirePower featured hemispherical combustion chambers and was the corporation’s first use of OHV (overhead valves) in passenger vehicle engines.  Both OHV and hemispherical combustion chambers had been around for decades but, before long, Chrysler would make a (trade-marked) fetish of “Hemi”, continuing cheerfully to use the name for a range of V8s introduced in 2003 even though they no longer used a true hemi-head, the design unable to be adapted to meet modern exhaust emission laws.  The so-called “third generation” Hemi remains available still although how long it will last will be a matter of the interplay of politics and demand.  Doubtless, it’s on Greta Thunberg’s (b 2003) long (and expanding) hit-list and that she and the engine arrived on planet Earth in the same year won't much impress her.

Chrysler FirePower 392 cubic inch (6.4 litre) V8 in 1957 Chrysler 300C Convertible.  In the jargon, the pair of four barrel carburetors were dubbed  “dual quads”.

First sold in 1950, the FirePower appeared first as a 331, growing over the decade to 354 (5.8) and then 392 (6.4) before being retired in 1959, the wedge-headed alternative with increased displacement a cheaper path to power (the hemi heads needing special machining and the valve-train was heavy and labor-intensive to assemble).  Chrysler and Imperial shared the engines but remarkably, in an approach that would today shock accountants and efficiency experts, the companion divisions (De Soto & Dodge) produced nine different hemi-head V8s with capacities between 241 (4.0) and 345 (5.6) with relatively little commonality of components between them all.  The last of the FirePowers were noted also for being one of the first engines offered with electronic fuel injection (built with analogue components) but while that offered real advantages over the mechanical systems then available in a handful of models in Europe and the US, the technology was then too fragile to be reliable and most of the 16 sold (reputedly all but one) were recalled and retro-fitted with a pair of faithful four barrel carburetors.  In 1964, the hemi-head was revived for a racing engine and, to satisfy the regulatory body that had been unimpressed with the use of such a thing in a series for “stock” cars, it was made available to the public between 1966-1971, this time called “Street Hemi”.  In 426 cubic inch (7.0 litre) form, it gained a reputation Chrysler would exploit for decades after production ended.

Some 350 CARS were built, all by the Chrysler's M&I (Marine & Industrial Engine Division, based in Trenton, Michigan) with some maintained in service as late as the 1970s.  During the era of détente, the last were retired, some sold to museums or collectors while other were just abandoned because, mounted atop tall buildings to maximize their acoustic coverage, the cost of removal far exceeded their value as units to be re-purposed or scraped.  At least three fully functional CARS still exist, one in a remote part of Texas where it’s safe to stage the occasional demonstration of the sound.  During these displays, the clear zone (minimum safe distance) extends outwards 320 feet (97.5 metres) but even at this range, anyone standing directly in front of the projection horns would find the experience uncomfortable, prolonged exposure risking some damage to the eardrums.  Although directional, there’s much “sound soak” in the device's proximity so just operating the siren from the side control panel requires hearing protection (acoustic earmuffs rated at a minimum 30 dB).

CARS at the Don Garlits Museum of Drag Racing, re-awakened after decades, 1997.

One collector attracted to them was Don Garlits (b 1932) who, in the post-war years, was among the most innovative and successful drivers and builders in the then wildly popular sport of drag-racing and it was with highly-modified Chrysler Hemis (the HP (horsepower) of which would come to be generated in thousands) he built his reputation.  In 1997, a documentary crew from the UK visited Garlits and saw one of the old CARS sitting neglected in the storeroom where it’d sat for decades after having spent some 20 years in salt-laden air atop a Florida high-rise.  Remarkably, after doing little more than connecting a battery and checking the oil and coolant, once a carburetor had been bolted on with a can of gas (petrol) rigged up, it started almost immediately, a reasonable achievement given it had never before run on gasoline because the CARS always used propane.  As Garlits over the decades had discovered a ¼ mile (402 metres) at a time, the FirePower Hemi was a tough old thing.

The Siren Suit

Weldon pattern for siren suit, 1940.  Home-made clothes used to be common and wartime conditions made the practice spike.  The production and distribution of patterns was a significant industry, enduring, at a smaller scale, to this day.

Unrelated to the seductive Sirens of mythology, the “siren suit” was a World War II (1939-1945) era coining describing a garment “ideal to wear when there was a risk of an air-raid siren sounding”.  The design wasn’t new; they would have been familiar to previous generations as the “overalls” mechanics and such wore to protect their clothing from oil and dirt, the novelty being the application.  Because “the Blitz” (the bombing campaign against London and other English cities waged by the Luftwaffe (the German Air Force) in 1940-1941) was conducted at night, that meant air-raid sirens were most likely to sound when people were in bed and the attraction of the “overall-like” siren suit was it could be worn over nightwear (pyjamas, nighties and such), meaning that upon being wakened by the siren, time would not be wasted getting dressed before rushing off to seek shelter; all one need to put on was one’s shoes.  With wool, silk & cotton supplies being diverted to military production, recycled blends using the more available rayon came increasingly to be used and the versatility of the synthetic made it popular; available in a variety of weights, unlike fabrics made from natural fibres, it was not subject to creasing or shrinkage.  In 1940, the most commonly requested feature was a “hood” and these came to be included on many, often with a lining for additional warmth.  Stylistically and conceptually, the siren suit can thus be imagined as a “proto-onesie”, one of the twenty-first century’s more controversial garments, not so much for what is it (warm, comfortable, convenient) but for where some choose to frequent while wearing one (Walmart, fast food outlets and such).

Wartime individualism, circa 1941: Despite wartime privations, fashion sense didn’t die and ways were found to individualize even the most starkly functional items.

As this publicity shot indicates, gas-masks were in the UK of 1940 a piece of compulsory kit for civilians, the use of poison gas expected by many in politics and the military.  Ironically, of all the leaders in the era, it was only Winston Churchill (1875-1965; UK prime-minister 1940-1945 & 1951-1955) who was enthusiastic about the use of gas as a weapon, thinking it ideal to deploy on beaches in the event of an amphibious assault by the Wehrmacht (the German military (1935-1945)).  Even Adolf Hitler (1889-1945; Führer (leader) and German head of government 1933-1945 & head of state 1934-1945) explicitly ruled out the use of poison gas, despite the Germans also holding large stocks.  Although in 1918 Hitler had learned of Germany’s capitulation when in hospital recovering from the temporary blindness suffered after being gassed, his unwillingness to use gas was not a humanitarian gesture but because the unpredictability of the wind (in Europe the “westerly” (ie from west to east) the prevailing type) made use too risky.

As a unisexual style, by 1940, the siren suit wouldn’t have been too shocking a challenge to the fashion police.  Although the tradition is longer still, in the West, women routinely (if not universally) had been wearing “trousers” since the mid-nineteenth century (for sport, work & leisure, the light and convenient “pyjama-suit” welcomed by many) and, during World War I (1914-1918), as in increasing numbers they entered the industrial workforce to replace men conscripted for military service, the sheer functionality of trousers was compelling (and often, for safety reasons, compulsory); women in overalls became commonplace.  Given the purpose, the early siren suits (the less pleasing “blitz suit” never catching on) were designed with little in mind except comfort, warmth and speed in donning so most were fastened with a zip though the photographic record confirms buttons or snap-fittings were also used, mass-production made immediately possible because they could be sewed on the same lines used to make overalls.  Winston Churchill often was photographed in his siren suit and while that promoted use, it also confirmed the style was not “slimming”.  Even more than overalls, siren suits seem to have featured generously-sized pockets, a thoughtful addition permitting those disturbed from their slumber quickly to stash valuables and the essentials needed for a few hours in an air-raid shelter while retaining the recommended “hands-free” status.  Coincidentally, the siren suit fitted in with the wartime “fashion zeitgeist” the rationing of fabrics and other materials imposing on clothing simplicity and a reduction in bulk.  Even after that economic imperative had faded, that simplicity would remain influential in the post-war years, most obviously in the minimalist movement, effects achieved with severe cuts rather than fussy embellishments.

Winston Churchill (left) in siren suit with comrade Stalin (right), the Kremlin, Moscow, August 1942.

The prime minister had earlier worn the same Siren suit on a visit to the White House to meet Franklin Delano Roosevelt (FDR, 1882–1945, POTUS 1933-1945) and it was much admired, the FLOTUS (Eleanor Roosevelt (1884–1962; FLOTUS 1933-1945) even saying she’d like to have one made for her husband, if “…the wool shortage” would allow it.  Decades later, during his visit to Washington DC, Volodymyr Zelenskyy (b 1978, President of Ukraine since 2019) found his similar sartorial choice not as well-received.  According to Churchill, even before the war he’d been inspired by the “coveralls” worn by coal miners to commission the London tailors Turnbull & Asser to create a bespoke one for him, finding it just the thing to wear when enjoying his hobby of painting.  Upon the country being threatened by bombing, he ordered several, his specifications recorded in the company’s archives: “Generously cut, with two breast pockets, a zip fastening, roomy side pockets, a belt and pleats to the front of the trousers.”  To suit their client’s whims, Turnbull & Asser made them in various fabrics including the same pinstripe as some of his suits, a durable serge twill and one in a velvet of striking emerald green, still on display in their London store.  There’s nothing to suggest he ever worn one made from utilitarian rayon.