Silk

Silk (pronounced silk)

(1) The soft, lustrous fibre obtained as a filament from the cocoon of the silkworm.

(2) Thread or cloth made from this fibre.

(3) In law, a slang term to describe a Queen's or King's Counsel and the silk gown they wear in court (UK & Commonwealth).

(4) In arachnology, very fine fibre produced by a spider to build its web, nest, or cocoon

(5) In agriculture, the tuft of long fine styles on an ear of maize (corn).

(6) In computing (as SiLK), Skype’s 2009 audio codec.

(7) In sport, a slang term for the working uniforms of both pugilists and jockeys.

(8) In fashion, a clipping of "silk stockings".

Circa 1300: From the Old English seoloc & sioloc (silk, silken cloth), from the Latin sericum (plural serica) (silken garments, silks) which translates literally as "Seric stuff," neuter of sericus, from the Ancient Greek sērikón (silken), derived from an oriental people of Asia from whom the Greeks got silks.  Western cultivation began 552 AD when Byzantium spies disguised as monks smuggled silkworms and mulberry leaves out of China, an early example of industrial espionage and the theft by the west of intellectual property from China; these things have a long tradition.  The Old English deoloc & sioloc were cognate with the Old Norse silki but the mode of transmission from the Ancient Greek sērikón is uncertain.  Greek picked up the word from Chinese, as a derivative of sêres, probably as a derivative of the Chinese si (silk) although some scholars cite both the Manchurian sirghe and the Mongolian sirkek as a possible root but this is speculative.  It’s found also in Old Norse as silki but not elsewhere in Germanic.  The more common Germanic form is represented by the Middle English say, from Old French seie; the Spanish seda, the Italian seta, the Dutch zijde and the German seide are from the Medieval Latin seta (silk), perhaps elliptical for seta (serica) or else a particular use of seta in the sense of "bristle or hair".

Silk was used as an adjective from the mid-fourteenth century.  The reference to the "hair" of corn is from 1660s American English while the figurative use of silk-stocking is from the 1590s.  It was once used as a pejorative adjective meaning "wealthy", attested from 1798 as a reference to silk stockings, especially when worn by men as extravagant, reprehensible and suggestive of effete habits.  Silk-screen was first used in 1930; in English, the ancient “Silk Road” was first so-called in 1931, a use revived in the twenty-first century as a place on the dark web which was a clearing house for those selling narcotics, other unlawful stuff and (allegedly) contract killing, the latter never verified.  Silk is a noun & verb, silky is a noun & adjective, silkiness is a noun and silken is a verb & adjective; the noun plural is silks.

Silks

Lindsay Lohan in Catherine Malandrino silk pin-tuck dress with bubble skirt (2008).

In the early years of the common law, the barristers known as serjeants-at law enjoyed precedence in court.  That remained until 1596, when Francis Bacon (1561–1626) prevailed upon Elizabeth I (1533–1603; Queen of England & Ireland 1558-1603) to create him Queen's Counsel Extraordinary (QC), a new office which granted him precedence over the Serjeants although that legal hierarchy wasn’t confirmed for some years.  Initially an appointment by virtue of the royal prerogative, it was formalised by the issue of letters patent in 1604 but the numbers of KCs & QCs remained exclusively small until the nineteenth century.  The office of KC ensured the obsolescence of the once senior serjeants-at-law by (gradually) superseding them.  The attorney-general and solicitor-general had similarly supplanted the serjeants as leaders of the bar in Tudor times but, interestingly, were not technically senior until 1623 (except for the two senior King's Serjeants) and 1813 respectively.  In the Commonwealth, whenever a King replaces a Queen, the QCs become KCs (or the other way around as the case may be.  QCs & KCs wear silk gowns when appearing in court and their appointment is known informally as "taking silk"; individually, they are often referred to as "silks".

Japanese silkworm farmers.

Silk was of great cultural significance in Japan and among the military and the aristocracy, were one to be presented with a dagger wrapped in silk, it was a suggestion from one's peers that, having committed some social or other transgression, it would be the honorable thing were one to commit an act of 切腹 (Seppuku (literally "cutting [the] belly"), the ritualistic method of suicide by disembowelment and and better known in the West as hara-kiri (腹切り(literally "abdomen or belly cutting")).  It had a long tradition but apparently was never as widespread as is often depicted by Hollywood, always anxious to believe the orientalists. 

By the 1920s, the backbone of Japanese agriculture was rice, “the king of grains” and, in aggregate terms, the nation’s industry was the most productive in the world despite a great volume of the harvest coming from the efforts of peasants who worked tiny rural plots which Rudyard Kipling (1865–1936) on a visit noted they tended with “comb and toothpick”.  The other crop on which they relied was the one regarded as the “God-sent merchandize” of raw silk, the silkworm styled “the honourable little gentleman”.  In the god years of the late 1920s, this meant stability but the Wall Street crash of 1929 which was the trigger (though not wholly the causative event) of the long slump of the 1930s affected Japan more immediately and more severely than just about anywhere; having few natural resources, the country was reliant on international trade and thus exposed as few others to movements in commodity prices.  In 1930, the rice harvest fetched a third less than the year before and the collapse in the silk trade was even more dramatic because the rayon produced in vast quantities by the US petro-chemical concerns flooded the market, undercutting the work of the the honourable little gentleman and the hard-working peasants who tended to him so assiduously.  The resulting immiseration of much of the anyway poor rural population of Japan was one of the factors which enabled certain military factions essentially to stage a (not quite bloodless) takeover of the Japanese state and in 1931 begin the aggressive overseas expansion which some fifteen years later would end in the atomic bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. 

Cravat

Cravat (pronounced kruh-vat)

(1) A cloth, usually of wool or silk and trimmed with lace, worn about the neck by men; especially popular in the seventeenth century.

(2) A decorative fabric band or scarf worn around the neck by women (obsolete).

(3) In modern use, a type of necktie worn by men, having long ends hanging in front, the most elaborate form of which is the “dress cravat”, “Ascot band” or “Ascot tie”.

(4) In medicine, a bandage made by folding a triangular piece of material into a band, used temporarily for a fracture or wound.

(5) As “hempen cravat” a euphemism for the hangman’s noose (hemp a fibre used to make rope.

1650-1660: From the French cravate, an appellative use of the French Cravate (Croat), from the Dutch Krawaat, from the German Krawatte, from the Serbo-Croatian/Хр̀ва̄т (Hr̀vāt) (Croat).  The name was adopted because the neck adornments were worn by Croatian mercenaries serving in the French army during the Thirty Years' War and was quickly absorbed into French fashion.  Cravat is a noun, cravatting is a verb and cravatted is an adjective (both verb & adjective are now rare); the noun plural is cravats.

Military influences in fashion are not unknown and cravats came into fashion in France in the mid-seventeenth century in imitation of linen scarves worn by the Crabats, formations of light cavalry forces which as mercenaries were attached to forces which fought on the side of the Catholic League in the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648).  The word cravates in French meant “Croatians” and the name in this context has come to be thought an ethnic label but in the narrow technical sense it was a generic designation of the light cavalry from the Hapsburg Military Frontier, which included Croats, Hungarians, Serbs, Wallachians, Poles, Cossacks and Tatars.

Methods of tying a cravat in eighteenth century France,

When first it came into use in French fashion, it was commonly made of lace & linen or muslin edged with lace, the long flowing ends tied in a variety of ways and it has evolved, the modern cravat more of a necktie, passed once round the neck, and tied in front in a bow although in popular culture one of the most popular depictions seems to be the style popular in the early-mid nineteenth century: a triangular silk kerchief (usually black), wrapped twice round the neck, in imitation of the stock; prior to that, starched linen cravats were worn by gentlemen (an those aspiring to be thought one) and a perfectly tied example was thought one of the markers of the class.  The cravat differs from the scarf which, whether tied, passed through a ring, or held by a pin, hangs down over the shirt front and in some ways is functionally similar to a muffler.

Like many of the symbols of civilizations associated with Europe, the cravat’s antecedents lie to the east, similar arrangements in cloth used as signifiers of high social status in both Ancient Egypt and China while in the art of the Rome of Antiquity, there are many depictions of jewels and other decorative constructions appearing around the neck which strikingly resemble the later cravats.  Throughout Europe too, a scarf around the neck was an old custom and part of the costumes of many European nations, worn in all climates although those in colder places were obviously thicker and often purely functional.  The tied scarf was well known as a visible part of national costumes in various Croatian provinces: In Omišalj it was the facol (which the Ancient Romans called the focale), in Baranja in the east it was the poša, and in the north the rubec.  Cultural anthropologists trace the earliest know reference to such garments in the region to the area surrounding of the village of Turopolje where they were known as podgutnica or podgutnjak.

The legend is that girls and women would give their scarves to boyfriends and husbands going to war and when tied around their necks, they represented ownership papers by which a man would display his loyalty.  This apparently did happen in some villages but seems not to have been a national tradition and quite how long a young man’s promise of fidelity lasted once the troops had marched isn’t known but the idea proved useful to military commanders who came to value a distinctive scarf as a way of distinguishing one soldier from another in the clatter of battle.  Europe being for centuries a blood-soaked place, the black and red colors of the Croatian scarfs became well-known on European battlefields because the Croats were highly-valued mercenaries in the Habsburg, Bavarian, Spanish, Danish and French armies, noted for their efficiency, innovations in tactic and tight discipline.  Napoleon Bonaparte (1769–1821), a fair judge of such things, said more than once “I never had more braver and better soldiers.  Croats, they are the best soldiers in the world.  If I had only 100,000 Croats, I would conquer the entire world!”

Chanel jacket with cravat.

At the time, the scarves worn by the military were called podgutnjak or podgutnica and mode of different materials ranging from the rough linen or wool items of ordinary soldiers, to the fine silk and cotton-wool of officers.  Whatever the construction, it quickly was adapted to become a functional piece of military kit which served purposes beyond identification because, attached to the neck by knot it also fulfilled the basic purpose of holding the rest of the clothes together, something vital in close combat.  Tied around the neck, it protected against cold and could be used to cover the lips, preventing dust from coming into his mouth while in the heat, it was protection from the sun and a rag with which to wipe away sweat.  Usefully too, the fabric protected a soldier’s neck from irritation, insect bites or scratches from rough military clothing (something which was quickly understood by fighter pilots in the Battle of Britain (1940) who soon discarded collars and ties for silk scarves) and for soldiers on horseback, silk in particular proved its worth in deflecting sabre strikes.  Finally, the scarf served also a tourniquet or field dressing.

Lindsay Lohan in Gucci Porcelain Garden Print Silk Gown featuring an all-over Dutch toile in blue and white with a high ruffled collar and bib, ruffles at the sleeve, pussy bow at the neck, and a blue and red patent belt at the high waist (Stg£4,040 (US$7,300)), One Family charity launch, Savoy Hotel, London, June 2017.  The cravat should not be confused with the pussy bow although visually, they can be similar.

The cavalry must have been a dashing sight because before the mid-seventeenth century the custom of the knotted scarf around the neck was unknown urban Europe and it was the acceptance and rapid adoption by the French court which lent the sartorial innovation the respectability needed for it to become a fashionable garment among the nobility.  They phrase at the time was a la Croate (in the Croatian way) which was the root of the French word cravate and such was the impression made that in 1643 a special regiment of Royal Cravates was formed, named after the Croats who were in its ranks, the first cravat officially presented in 1656.  Despite the military origins, the cravat eventually became a symbol of progress in France and during the French Revolution a black tie was worn as a sign of protest against backward, outdated ideas.  From there, although revolution was suppressed, the ties spread to the Belgians, the Dutch and the English and Charles II (1630–1685; King of Scotland 1649-1651, King of England, Scotland and Ireland 1660-1685), upon on his return from exile uttered the words “Bring me a tie or I shall die”.

Donald Trump (b 1946; US president 2017-2021) with Boris Johnson (b 1964; UK prime-minister 2019-2022) (left) & Benjamin Netanyahu (b 1949; Israeli prime-minister 1996-1999, 2009-2021 & probably soon again) (right).  Fashionistas derided Donald Trump for his extravagantly long ties; he ignored them and does seem to have influenced the easily-led.

After this, the cravat became a cult and eventually a tie (the word derived from “to tie a cravat”).  The English had first favored white but as technology made things possible, colors and patterns became popular but in the nineteenth century, it was the Americans who made the notable structural change of cutting the fabric in three parts, then sewing them together, the advantage being they became both cheaper to produce and easier to tie.  According to two researchers from the University of Cambridge, theoretically there are 85 possible ways to bind a standard tie knot, assuming the number of “moves” is limited to nine (and it’s a scandal no Ignoble Prize was won for determining this).  One particular interesting finding which emerged from the mathematical modeling was that of the seven-dozen odd, only ten knots corresponded to conventional symmetry although most used with the modern tie are symmetrical including the plain knot, the double knot, the small knot, the classic Windsor, the semi-Windsor, the Albert knot and the American knot.  One convention is that ties should not be too long, something more-or-less observed until Donald Trump decided to pay tribute to the codpiece.  Ties of late have fallen from favor in the west although the Japanese remain big buyers, the uniform of the salaryman apparently still a lure and for those who wish to mark the tradition, international cravat day (Hrvatska in Croatian) is celebrated annually on 18 October.

Portrait of Ivan Gundulić (Dživo Franov Gundulić or Gianfrancesco Gondola in the Italian) (1589-1638), circa 1622-1630, oil on canvas by an unknown artist.  The most prominent of the Baroque poets from the Republic of Ragusa (now in modern-day Croatia), Gundulić is regarded as the Croatian national poet and this portrait is the oldest known image of a man wearing a cravatte (cravat).

Noted Instagram influencer, German-born Ivana Knoll (b 1992) was a finalist in the Miss Croatia competition in 2016 and the best-known fan to appear at the 2022 FIFA World Cup in Qatar, always attired in a variety of outfits using the Croatian national symbol of the red and white checkerboard, matching the home strip worn by the team.  Her outfits were much admired and she was a popular accessory sought by Qatari men for their selfies but she missed an opportunity by not including a checkered cravat which, if strategically tied to drape in just the right way, would have been most photogenic.

Velvet

Velvet (pronounced vel-vit)

(1) A fabric fashioned from silk with a thick, soft pile formed of loops of the warp thread either cut at the outer end or left uncut.

(2) In modern use, a fabric emulating in texture and appearance the silk original and made from nylon, acetate, rayon etc, sometimes having a cotton backing.

(3) Something likened to the fabric velvet, an allusion to appearance, softness or texture,

(4) The soft, deciduous covering of a growing antler.

(5) In informal use (often as “in velvet” or “in the velvet”), a very pleasant, luxurious, desirable situation.

(6) In slang, money gained through gambling; winnings (mostly US, now less common).

(7) In financial trading, clear gain or profit, especially when more than anticipated; a windfall profit.

(8) In mixology, as “Black Velvet”, a cocktail of champagne & stout (also made with dark, heavy beers).

(9) A female chinchilla; a sow.

(10) An item of clothing made from velvet (in modern use also of similar synthetics).

(11) In drug slang, the drug dextromethorphan.

(12) To cover something with velvet; to cover something with something of a covering of a similar texture.

(13) In cooking, to coat raw meat in starch, then in oil, preparatory to frying.

(14) To remove the velvet from a deer's antlers.

1275–1325: From the Middle English velvet, velwet, veluet, welwet, velvette, felwet veluet & veluwet, from the Old Occitan veluet, from the Old French veluotte, from the Medieval Latin villutittus or villūtus (literally shaggy cloth), from the classical Latin villus (nap of cloth, shaggy hair, tuft of hair), from velu (hairy) and cognate with French velours.  The Latin villus is though probably a dialectal variant of vellus (fleece), from the primitive Indo-European wel-no-, a suffixed form of uelh- (to strike).  Velvet is a noun, verb & adjective, velvetlike & velvety are adjectives, velveting & velveted are verbs & adjective; the noun plural is velvets.

The noun velveteen was coined in 1776 to describe one of first the imitation (made with cotton rather than silk) velvets commercially to be marketed at scale; the suffix –een was a special use of the diminutive suffix (borrowed from the Irish –in (used also –ine) which was used to form the diminutives of nouns in Hiberno-English).  In commercial use, it referred to products which were imitations of something rather than smaller.  The adjective velvety emerged in the early eighteenth century, later augmented by velvetiness.  In idiomatic use, the “velvet glove” implies someone or something is being treated with gentleness or caution.  When used as “iron fist in a velvet glove”, it suggests strength or determination (and the implication of threat) behind a gentle appearance or demeanor.  “Velvet” in general is often applied wherever the need exists to covey the idea of “to soften; to mitigate” and is the word used when a cat retracts its claws.  The adjective “velvety” can be used of anything smooth and the choice between it and forms like “buttery”, “silky”, “creamy” et al is just a matter of the image one wishes to summon.  The particular instance “Velvet Revolution” (Sametová revoluce in Czech) refers to the peaceful transition of power in what was then Czechoslovakia, occurring from in late 1989 in the wake of the fall of Berlin Wall.  Despite being partially in the Balkans, the transition from communism to democracy was achieved almost wholly without outbreaks of violence (in the Balkans it rare for much of note to happen without violence).

Ten years after: Lindsay Lohan in black velvet, London, January 2013 (left) and in pink velour tracksuit, Dubai, January 2023 (right).

The fabrics velvet and velour can look similar but they differ in composition.  Velvet historically was made with silk thread and was characterized by a dense pile, created by the rendering of evenly distributed loops on the surface.  There are now velvets made from cotton, polyester or other blends and its construction lends it a smooth, plush texture appearance, something often finished with a sheen or luster.  A popular modern variation is “crushed velvet”, achieved by twisting the fabric while wet which produces a crumpled and crushed look although the effect can be realized also by pressing the pile of fabric in a different direction.  It’s unusual in that object with most fabric is to avoid a “crumpled” look but crushed velvet is admired because of the way it shimmers as the light plays upon the variations in the texture.  The crushing process doesn’t alter the silky feel because of the dense pile and the fineness of the fibers.  Velour typically is made from knit fabrics such as cotton or polyester and is best known for its stretchiness which makes its suitable for many purposes including sportswear and upholstery.  Except in some specialized types, the pile is less dense than velvet (a consequence of the knitted construction) and while it can be made with a slight shine, usually the appearance tends to be matte.  Velour is used for casula clothing, tracksuits & sweatshirts and it’s hard-wearing properties mean it’s often used for upholstery and before the techniques emerged to permit vinyl to be close to indistinguishable from leather, it was often used by car manufacturers as a more luxurious to vinyl.  The noun velour (historically also as velure & velours) dates from 1706 and was from the French velours (velvet), from the Old French velor, an alteration of velos (velvet) from the same Latin sources as “velvet”.

US and European visions of luxury: 1974 Cadillac Fleetwood Talisman in velour (top left), 1977 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham in leather (top right), 1978 Mercedes-Benz 450 SEL 6.9 in velour (bottom left) & 1979 Mercedes-Benz 450 SEL 6.9 in leather (bottom right).  Whether in velour or leather, the European approach in the era was more restrained. 

In car interiors, the golden age of velour began in the US in the early 1970s and lasted almost two decades, the increasingly plush interiors characterized by tufting and lurid colors.  Chrysler in the era made a selling point of their “rich, Corinthian leather” but the extravagant velour interiors were both more distinctive and emblematic of the era, the material stretching sometimes from floor to roof (the cars were often labeled “Broughams”).  The dismissive phrase used of the 1970s was “the decade style forgot” and that applied to clothes and interior decorating but the interior designs Detroit used on their cars shouldn’t be forgotten and while the polyester-rich cabins (at the time too, on the more expensive models one’s feet literally could sink into the deep pile carpet) were never the fire-risk comedians claimed, many other criticisms were justified.  Cotton-based velour had for decades been used by the manufacturers but the advent of mass-produced, polyester velour came at a time when “authenticity” didn’t enjoy the lure of today and the space age lent the attractiveness of modernity to plastics and faux wood, faux leather and faux velvet were suddenly an acceptable way to “tart up” the otherwise ordinary.  At the top end of the market, although the real things were still sometimes used, even in that segment soft, pillowy, tufted velour was a popular choice.

1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham D'Elegance in velour (left) and a "low-rider" in velour (right).  The Cadillac is trimmed in a color which in slang came to be known as "bordello red".  Because of changing tastes, manufacturers no longer build cars with interiors which resemble a caricature of a mid-priced brothel but the tradition has been maintained (and developed) by the "low-rider" community, a sub-culture with specific tastes. 

At the time, the interiors were thought by buyers to convey “money” and the designers took to velour because the nature of the material allowed so many techniques cheaply to be deployed.  Compared with achieving a similar look in leather, the cost was low, the material cost (both velour and the passing underneath or behind) close to marginal and the designers slapped on pleats, distinctive (and deliberately obvious) stitching, extra stuffing, the stuff covering seats, door panels, and headliners, augmented with details like recessed buttons, leather grab-handles and the off chrome accent (often anodized plastic).  By the 1980s, velour had descended to the lower-priced product lines and this was at a time when the upper end of the market increasingly was turning to cars from European manufacturers, notably Mercedes-Benz and BMW, both of which equipped almost all their flagships destined for the US market with leather and real wood.

The Velvet Underground with Nico (Christa Päffgen; 1938–1988) while part of Andy Warhol’s (1928-1987) multimedia road-show The Exploding Plastic Inevitable (1966-1967 and known briefly as “The Erupting Plastic Inevitable” or The Exploding Plastic Invisible).  Unusually, the acronym EPI never caught on.

The (posthumously) influential US rock band The Velvet Underground gained their name from a book with that title, published in 1963, the year before their original formation although it wouldn’t be until 1965 the band settled on the name.  The book was by journalist Michael Leigh (1901-1963) and it detailed the variety of “aberrant sexual practices” in the country and is notable as one of the first non-academic texts to explore what was classified as paraphilia (the sexual attraction to inanimate objects, now usually called Objectum Sexuality (OS) or objectum romanticism (OR) (both often clipped to "objectum")).  Leigh took a journalistic approach to the topic which focused on what was done, by whom and the ways and means by which those with “aberrant sexual interests” achieved and maintained contact.  The author little disguised his distaste for much about what he wrote.  The rock band’s most notable output came in four albums (The Velvet Underground & Nico (1967), White Light/White Heat (1968), The Velvet Underground (1969) & Loaded (1970)) which enjoyed neither critical approval nor commercial success but by the late 1970s, in the wake of punk and the new wave, their work was acknowledged as seminal and their influence has been more enduring than many which were for most of the late twentieth century more highly regarded.

Marquisette

Marquisette (pronounced mahr-kuh-zet or mahr-kwuh-zet)

A lightweight open leno weave fabric of cotton, silk etc; very popular under the Raj.

1907: From the French, diminutive of marquise (a marchioness), from the Medieval Latin marchionissa (feminine form of marchion) from Late Latin marcha, from which Frankish picked up markōn (to mark, mark out, to press with the foot).  The Proto-Germanic was markō (area, region, edge, rim, border).  Marquisette fabric is constructed using a leno weave and was originally made only from silk for use in bridal wear and evening gowns.  More commonly nowadays, it is made from cotton, wool or synthetic fibres and is used for drapes and mosquito nets.  Marquisette, along with voile, was a robing fabric especially suitable for travel and for draping over other dresses.  Early in the twentieth century, Deliniator magazine adopted the light, limp fabric for the newly fashionable directorie look.

Marilyn Monroe, President Kennedy and the marquisette dress

In a marquisette dress, Marilyn Monroe (1926-1962) sang happy birthday Mr President to President John Kennedy (JFK, 1917-1963; US president 1961-1963) at a Democratic Party fundraiser at New York's Madison Square Garden on 19 May 1962, ten days before his actual birthday.  Within three months, she would be dead.

An impressive piece of structural engineering (so body-hugging Ms Monroe had to sewn into it) and an eye-catching design, the dress was cut from a sheer, flesh-colored silk marquisette, adorned with 2500 hand-sewn (and intricately positioned) rhinestones and the famously sultry performance did nothing to dispel rumors the two might be having an affair.  In 1962 it cost US$1,440.33 (equivalent to some US$10,000 in 2022) and it remained part of Ms Monroe's estate until sold at auction by Christie's in 1999 for US$1.3 million.  Subsequently, it was purchased in 2016 for US$4.8 million by Ripley's Believe It Or Not Museum in Florida. 

RFK, Marilyn Munroe & JFK.

The first conceptual sketch of the dress was the debut project of US fashion designer Bob Mackie (b 1939) who two years earlier had left the Chouinard Art Institute to work for French costume designer Jean Louis (1907-1997) and year later, he revealed to Vogue magazine that until the pictures of the Madison Square Garden performance were published, he had no idea of the use to which his sketch was to be put.  Marilyn Munro was certainly aware of the impact the translucent look would have and was seeking a “work-around” to the problem of her employer (Twentieth Century Fox) not permitting her to be dressed too revealing in films.  Having just lost weight and concluded she was looking better than ever, she wanted an outfit with what Mackie called “the wow factor” and that she certainly got.  Sixty years on, dresses which approach functional nudity are commonplace but in 1962 the clinging, shimmering creation which moved with her, caused a sensation.  The garment is also a reminder of the way history unfolds according to the chance interaction of events.  Had JKF not won the 1960 presidential election "by an electoral eyelash", the song would doubtlessly never have been performed.  Marilyn Munroe would not have dressed as she did to sing happy birthday Mr President to Richard Nixon (1913-1994; US president 1969-1974).  

The two superstars of the 1950s.  Maria Callas and Marilyn Monroe, back-stage after the performance.

Remarkably, despite being in the limelight that evening, Ms Monroe purchased five tickets (at US$1000 each) to the event because it was the only way to guarantee her attendance at the private supper which followed.  At the after-party she enjoyed a number turns on the dance floor with the president’s brother, Robert Kennedy (RFK, 1925–1968; US attorney general 1961-1964) although it was reported she left with JFK via a basement corridor and a private elevator to his suite at the next-door Carlyle Hotel, returning the next day to Los Angeles.  There, according to her biographer, she was contacted by one of his aides telling her not to again contact him.  They would never meet again and within three months, she was dead.

At the 2020 Met Gala, Kim Kardashian (b 1980) wore the famous marquisette dress.  It couldn’t be expected to cause quite the same stir as sixty years earlier because, cut from a sheer, silk marquisette that almost exactly matched Ms Monroe’s skin-tone, the 2500 hand-sewn rhinestones were intricately positioned to respond to the particular gait she chose for that evening and, under the limelight in the darkened amphitheater, as she moved, the crystals sparkled and the dress came alive.  It was quite a design.  In the hard, white light of the Met Gala’s red carpet, it couldn’t be expected to work the magic it did all those years ago and, not shimmering in the darkness, it seemed lifeless and perhaps it would have benefited from the contrast her lustrous natural hair would have lent but Ms Kardashian wore it well, attracting admiration (and criticism from the usual suspects) too for the reasonable achievement of shedding some 16 lbs (7¼ kg) in three weeks to ensure a comfortable fit.  Digesting the implications of that, keen-eyed fashionistas noted the vintage white coat which Ms Kardashian kept strategically positioned below the small of her back for the ritual walk to and up the staircase, some taking to Twitter to wonder if it was there to conceal that things were quite fully done-up.

The theory is plausible; it’s always been known that in 1962, Ms Monroe had to be “sewn-into” the dress just before the performance.  The day after the Met Gala, photographs circulated purporting to show Ms Kardashian with a generously sized, pear-shaped lacuna between the seams, accompanied with the accusation that the images showing things done up had been digitally modified and the haters were certainly out, one distressed soul lamenting that for Ms Kardashian to wear the dress "...was an absolute disgrace, a tacky photo opportunity" and that "...one of the most important items of clothing in history, is now tainted with the stain of the Kardashians."  There are people who do take pop-culture very seriously.  The green dress she changed into after her ascent had similar lines (and perhaps slightly more generous dimensions) but was certainly done-up and anyway, in either, she looked gorgeous.

Cope

Cope (pronounced kohp)

(1) To struggle or deal, especially on fairly even terms or with some degree of success.

(2) To face and deal with responsibilities, problems, or difficulties, especially successfully or in a calm or adequate manner.

(3) To come into contact; to meet (archaic).

(4) A long mantle, especially of silk, worn by ecclesiastics over the alb or surplice in processions and on other occasions.

(5) Any cloak-like or canopy-like covering (now rare).

(6) The night sky or the sky (archaic except as a literary or poetic device, sometimes in conjunction with “heaven”).

(7) In metallurgy, the upper half of a flask.

(8) In woodworking, to join (two molded wooden members) by undercutting the end of one of them to the profile of the other so that the joint produced resembles a miter joint.

(9) To form a joint between such members in this way or to undercut the end of (a molded wooden member) in order to form a coped joint.

(10) In steel fabrication, to cut away a flange of a metal member so that it may be joined to another member at an angle.

(11) In falconry, to clip or dull the beak or talons of a hawk.

(12) In medieval military use, for infantry forces to meet in battle.

(13) In South Africa, an acronym for Congress of the People, a political party founded in 2008 by dissident members of the African National Congress (ANC).

(14) To buy, barter; make a bargain, exchange for value (obsolete since the seventeenth century.

1175-1225: From the Middle English capa (large outer garment, cloak, mantle) which by the late thirteenth century acquired the specific ecclesiastical sense of “large mantle of silk or other material worn by priests or bishops over the alb on special occasions” from the Medieval Latin capa (cloak), from the Late Latin cappa (hooded cloak) (and source of the Old English cāp and the modern cap).  In figuratively use it was used of the night (the idea of the “cloak” of night's darkness) which was later extended to the "vault of the sky", the notion of the sky enveloping the earth as a cape covers the body, hence the late fourteenth century poetic phrase “cope of heaven”.  Cope is a noun & verb and coping is a noun, verb & adjective; the noun plural is copes.

In Medieval Europe, meanings evolved in parallel.  The verb emerged in the late fourteenth century as coupen (to quarrel) which in the early 1400s had meant “come to blows, deliver blows, engage in combat”, from the Anglo-French & Old French couper, from colper (to strike; to cut; a blow hit, punch), from colp (a blow).  The meaning evolved and by the eighteenth century meant “handle (successfully), deal with” and etymologists suspect this may have been under the influence of the obsolete use of cope to mean “to traffic, bargain for, buy”, in common use between the fifteenth & seventeenth centuries in North Sea trade, from the Flemish version of the Germanic source of English “cheap”.  The construct of København (literally “merchant's port”) (Copenhagen), the capital of Denmark, was køber (merchant (literally “buyer”)) + havn (port) (thus the idea in English of a port as a “haven in a storm”).  English picked up cope in the fifteenth century from its sense in Low German of "to buy, barter, make a bargain”, use lasting until late in the seventeenth.  The noun coping dates from the early seventeenth century as a term in architectural meaning “the top or cover of a wall, usually sloped to shed water”, an allusion to the function of a priest’s cloak-like cope in protecting the wearing from rain.  By the 1660s, this technical sense in building extended to a general description of the form and shape of a typical cope and the verb cope in this context was used to describe “forming a cope, bend as an arch or vault”.  The notion was picked up in carpentry in the 1880s as “coping saw”, a saw with a long, narrow blade used for cutting curved patterns.

Pope Benedict XVI (1927–2022; pope 2005-2013, pope emeritus 2013-2022) in red papal cope & mitre, worn when presiding over the ceremonies marking the opening of the Pauline Year, 29 June 2008.

The cope is a liturgical vestment, a long cloak, open in front and fastened at the breast with a band or clasp, known as a morse.  Always made in a great variety of colors and patterns, the cope has never been restricted to the clergy and although now, in its more elaborate forms, it's most associated with bishops and cardinals, there's no doubt it was originally a functional garment designed for no higher purpose than to protect the wearer and his clothes from the elements.  In Ancient Rome, it was known in Classical Latin as pluviale (rain coat) or cappa (cape) and in design and construction has changed little in two-thousand years.

Cardinal Pell (1941-2023) in Cappa Magna with caudatario.

Among copes, the highlight of any ecclesiastical fashion parade in the Roman Catholic Church is the silk cappa magna (great cape).  Technically a jurisdictional garment, it’s now rarely seen and worn only in processions or when "in choir" (attending but not celebrating services).  Cardinals wear red and bishops violet and both cardinals and papal nuncios are entitled to a cappa magna of watered silk.  Well into the twentieth century, a cappa magna could stretch for nearly 15 metres, (50 feet) but Pius XII’s (1876-1958; pope 1939-1958) motu proprio (literally “on his own impulse”, essentially constitutionally the same as a royal decree which unilaterally creates law) Valde solliciti (1952) laid down that they should not be longer than 7m (23 feet) and later instructions from the Vatican banned them from Rome and curtailed their use elsewhere.  Valde solliciti translates literally as “very worried” and Pius in 1952 was clearly exactly that, concerned at complaints that the extravagance of the Church’s rituals was inappropriate at a time of such troubled austerity.  There was in 1952 still little sign of the remarkable post-war economic recovery which within a decade would be critiqued in Federico Fellini's (1920–1993) film La Dolce Vita (the sweet life).  Accordingly, Pius wrote:

Being greatly troubled by the peculiar conditions of our times, which laborious experiments and changes make daily more difficult and more difficult, and which make those wishes worthy of the greatest consideration and care, for the attainment of which many strive today with a noble anxiety, We have always thought it opportune and consistent with the duty of Our conscience to respond to them with warnings which arise from it: namely, that all, and in a special way from the sacred order of men, are directed to a more sober, moderate and austere way of life.

For this reason, which also concerns Us, it was decided to set an example in these matters: it was decided to moderate somewhat the external rites which belong to the fulfilment of Our Apostolic office, that is, to reduce the sacred ceremonies to a simpler and shorter form; and for this reason above all we are moved with joy, because we see all men of heart, when in the habit of acting of individuals, as well as in the actions of public life, even in regard to the clergy, more than pride, we are amazed at the painstaking concern for the needs of human society.

It is our intention, therefore, to issue some regulations concerning the vestments of the Cardinal Fathers, who indeed are very dear to Us, and are present to Us so much in the whole Church that we govern. Indeed, we know that they do not look to the admiration of their admirers, but to place their own excellent dignity and authority in their own light; and in the same way it was seen by Us not only to abhor them from empty luxury, but rather those who have attributed to them the piety of the ecclesiastical patrimony of the Christian faithful, and sometimes also family wealth, to spend liberally in projects of beneficence when they are deeply convinced of themselves, to respond to the precepts of evangelical wisdom, as those who the results that remain, even those that arise from a more moderate way of living and dressing, will be invested in divine worship, in charity, in the education of the youth, and in apostolic works.

Therefore, while we honor them with due honor, we think that We will make their laudable Christian plans and purposes easier by these, which we have established by Motu Proprio, norms pertaining to the attitude of the Cardinal Fathers:

(1) Of the robe of the Cardinal Fathers, the cord or tail is to be removed, either of a red or purple color.

(2) The string or tail of their cap, which will not be worn in the Supreme Pontifical Chapels, nor in the Sacred Consistory, should be reduced to half, considering its size, which is in use today.

(3) Their clothes of a purple color (talar clothes, mantles, mozeta) are woolen; that the Cardinal Fathers, who had previously had silk vestments of a purple color, may continue to wear them for the same period.

(4) The norms of the ceremonies in the Roman Court will be reintegrated, according to the habit of those Cardinal Fathers who are recruited into the Sacred College either from among the Canons Regular, or from the Clergy Regular, or from the Religious Congregations.

Amanda Seyfried (b 1985) in cloak, Little Red Riding Hood (2011).

The caudatari need a practical understanding of physics when dealing with the challenge of stairs; note the parabolic curve a Cappa Magna assumes in ascent.

Over the centuries, there was certainly a bit of mission creep in the cope.  Originally garments like other cloaks of at most of ankle-length, by the mid-twentieth century, those used by cardinal could trail for 7 metres (23 feet).  Formerly introduced as an ecclesiastical vestment by Pope Nicholas III (circa 1225–1280; pope 1277-1280), even when of more modest length, in those dustier, muddier times, the need for an aide (familiar in English as “Page of the Robes”), saw the appointment of those who would follow behind, carrying the tail of the robe and preventing it dragging on the ground.  The first aides were laymen but the role was later assigned to junior clerics, often trainee priests and, in the way of bureaucracy, as bishops and other more junior clerics began to lengthen their trains, their numbers grew, not least because sometimes two were required when a cardinal might be negotiating tricky obstacles like stairs.  In the Church these aides were styled as caudatario (plural caudatari), (from Italian and literally “train-bearer”) and their sole role was to carry the train of the cassock or cappa magna during solemn ceremonies but, again in the way bureaucracies tend to grow, they began to assume the role of a personal assistant (PA) taking charge of the vestments’ cleaning, repair and storage (the role in England of the “Master of the Robes”) and during services, holding the cardinal’s cap or books and prompting him to recall (as required) what came next in the order of service.  However, Pope John XXIII (1881-1963; pope 1958-1963), either moved by the spirit of La Dolce Vita or responding to cardinals complaining about their sartorial emasculation, restored things, setting the Cardinals' copes to 12 meters (40 feet) and the bishops’ to 7m (23 feet).  One quirk in the Orthodox Church is the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem is required to don an ermine-lined winter cappa, because he is bound by the unalterable rules of the Status quo, an 1852 Ottoman firman (a word from the Persian (فرمان) meaning "decree") which regulates relations between the various religious groups caring for sites in the Holy Land.

Lindsay Lohan in Lavish Alice cape.  Lindsay Lohan is believed to have good coping skills.

In modern use, people seem often to use the words cloak & cape interchangeably, presumably because (1) both are now less common and (2) both are made from a single piece of fabric (though often lined), is sleeveless and hangs loose.  Properly though, capes are shorter, often of hip-length while cloaks are calf-length or descend to the floor.  Perhaps what misleads is the tendency in popular culture (especially film) to depict super-heroes (Superman and his many imitators) in flappy capes which extend sometimes almost to the ankles.  Cloaks also often have hoods which are less common on capes.  Cloak is from the French word cloche (bell), implying a wrap narrow at the top, flaring at the bottom and the envelopment they provide saw the word adopted to mean conceal, used in fields as diverse as coatings which resist detection by radar and masking agents used to suppress the presence of drugs.