Glamour

Glamour (pronounced glam-er)

(1) The quality of fascinating, alluring, or attracting, especially by a combination of charm, good looks and elegant or expensive clothing & accessories.

(2) Excitement, adventure, and unusual activity.

(3) Magic or enchantment; spell; witchery; to enchant; to bewitch (archaic).

(4) An item, motif, person, image that by association improves appearance (archaic).

(5) Suggestive or full of glamour; glamorous.

(6) A kind of haze in the air, causing things to appear different from what they really are (also used figuratively and now rare).

1710–1720: From the Scots gramarye, glamar & glamer (magic, enchantment, spell), a dissimilated variant of the Middle English gramere (grammar (in the sense of “occult learning”)) from The Old French gramaire, the sense development related to the idea of magic spells cast because occult practices were popularly associated with learning (and regarded often with fear and suspicion); a doublet of glamoury, gramarye, grammar and grimoire.  There are suggestions the ultimate source was Old Norse and in one dictionary of Old Icelandic there’s an entry for glám-sýni (illusion), presumed to be from the same root as gleam.  The standard short-form is “glam” which (formerly & informally) frequently is used as a modifier is (glam clothing, glam rock etc) as in glamour (glamour photography, glamour party etc) and non-standard creations are common (glamourpuss, beglamour, beglamourment, reglamoured deglamoured etc).

The Scottish sense of “magic, enchantment” was best known in the phrase “casting the glamor” which referred to “scholarship (which could be the possession of literacy)”, regarded as a form of the occult learning, that idea noted also in fourteenth century English but etymologists believe it was more common still in Medieval Latin. The words was popularized in English in the works of Sir Walter Scott (1771-1832) and the modern sense of “magical beauty, alluring charm” seems to have begun to evolve in the mid-nineteenth century; by the 1930s it was most associated with the life styles of Hollywood film stars, high-fashion & celebrity.  Danish, Dutch, Finnish, French, German, Swedish & Norwegian (Bokmål & Norwegian Nynorsk) all adopted the spelling used in English while the Russian was гламур (glamur) and the Catalan glamur (Spanish picked up both the Catalan & English forms).  Glamour is a noun & verb, glamorousness is a noun, glamourise, glamourising & glamourised are verbs, glamorous is an adjective (the spelling glamourous is now rare), glamorously is an adverb; the noun plural is glamours.

Glamourous: Lindsay Lohan in a shimmering nude and silver bugle-beaded fringe gown from Theia Couture’s spring 2011 collection, amfAR’s (American Foundation for AIDS Research) New York Gala, February 2013.

The curious evolution of glamour is another example of the power exerted by words and their relationship to the possession of knowledge, the power elites in many societies keeping learning & knowledge exclusively in their hands.  To the priests in Ancient Egypt reading & writing was “a matter of the temple” which meant that for most people they were the only source of enlightenment and men were burned at the stake for publishing the Bible in the vernacular language of the common people rather than the Greek or Latin known only to scholars and clerics.  Such was the ritualism and mysticism attached to such learning that in many societies, people looked upon these skills with superstitious awe and regarded it all as the spells of magicians.  Those who could read & write were said to be skilled in the “Latin grammar” and, in the way familiar as Middle English evolved the “r” changed to “l” as “r” sometimes does as language mutates.  As other changes crept in, glamour was the final form and it carried over the cabalistic overtone which originally conveyed “magic charms & spells” or “occultism”.  So the meanings really differ only by application and there’ still the idea of a kind of spell which might cause one to see objects in a form that differs from reality, typically to make them more desirable of beauteous.

Writing Explained tracked the pattern of use of the alternative spellings of glamour found in US & UK use (glamour is red and glamor blue).

The pattern of spelling in the US is unusual because glamour & glamor still peacefully co-exist but the latter has for decades been in decline and never really caught on elsewhere.  Most US spellings make more sense that the UK originals in that they are (1) simpler & (2) more phonetic but the US preference for glamour (most sources list it as the standard US form) is not only an outlier but idiosyncratic in that the derived forms (such as glamorize) follow the conventions but deleting the pointless “u” and substituting a “z” for “s”.  Etymologists suggest the creation of glamor may be a back-formation of the dropped “u” in the derived forms (glamorous the most frequently used in the US).

Demimonde

Demimonde (pronounced dem-ee-mond or duh-mee-mawnd (French))

(1) That class of women existing beyond or on the margins of respectable society because of their indiscreet behavior or sexual promiscuity; typically they were mistresses but not courtesans and certainly not prostitutes (classic meaning from the mid-late nineteenth century).

(2) A group, the activities of which are ethically or legally questionable (later use).

(3) Any social group considered to be not wholly respectable (though vested sometimes with a certain edgy glamour).

(4) By extension, a member of such a class or group of persons.

1850–1855: From the French demi-monde, the construct being demi- (half) + monde (world (in the sense of “people”)), thus literally “half world” and translatable as something like “those really not ‘one of us’”.  It may have been coined by the French author and playwright Alexandre Dumas (1802-1870) but certainly was popularized in his comedic play, Le Demi Monde (1855).  The hyphenated original from French (demi-monde) is sometimes used in English.  Demimonde is a noun; the noun plural is demimondes.

In English, demi dates from the mid-1300 and was from the Middle English demi (half, half-sized, partial), from the twelfth century Anglo-Norman demi (half), from the Vulgar Latin dimedius, from the Classical Latin dīmidius, the construct being dis- (apart; in two) + medius (middle).  The French demi (which English borrowed) was a combining form which existed as noun, adjective, and adverb.  The French monde was from the twelfth century Old French monde, a semi-learned form of the tenth century mont (etymologists trace the alteration to ensure the word was distinct from the unrelated mont (mountain)), from the Latin mundus which could mean (1) clean, pure; neat, nice, fine, elegant, sophisticated, decorated, adorned or (2) universe, world (especially the heavens and heavenly bodies with the sense “universe” being a calque of the Ancient Greek κόσμος (kósmos)).or mankind (as in "inhabitants of the earth").  In Medieval Latin it was used also the mean "century" and "group of people".  The Latin mundus may have been from the Etruscan munθ (order, kit, ornament) or the primitive Indo-European mhnd- (to adorn) which was cognate with the Old High German mandag (joyful, happy; dashing).  As well as the historically pejorative sense in demimonde, “demi” appeared in other loanwords from French meaning “half”  including demilunes (in the shape of a half-moon (semi-circular)) and demitasse (a small coffee cup of the type associated with the short black) and, on that model, is also prefixed to words of English origin (eg demigod).

Treading Water Perfume's Demimonde.  The Trending Water brand is described as “queer-owned” and the products are “hand crafted”.

Similar forms in French included beau monde (literally “beautiful world”, the plural being beaux mondes) which meant “the fashionable part of society” (ie the “beautiful people”) and demi-mondaine (plural demimondaines) which was used in a variety of ways ranging from “women of equivocal reputation and standing in society” to “a sexually promiscuous woman” (ie, one of the demimonde).  Of lifestyles in some way disreputable (or at least unconventional), the terms “bohemian” and “demimonde” are often used although if one is to acknowledge the history of use, they should be differentiated despite both being associated with non-conformity.  Bohemianiam is best used of artistic and intellectual milieus where there’s a pursuit of the non-orthodox and often a rejection of societal norms (or they are at least ignored).  Demimonde, reflecting the specific origin as describing a social class of women financially able to sustain a lifestyle deemed morally dubious, retains to this day the hint of something disreputable although with the decline in the observation of such things, this is now more nuanced.  The gradual distancing of the word from its origins in the intricacies of defining the sexual morality of nineteenth century French women meant it became available to all and in her politely received novel The Last Thing He Wanted (1996), Joan Didion (1934-2021) explored the murky world of the back-channel deals in politics as it is practiced, a demimonde in which individuals are “trying to create a context for democracy” but may be “getting [their] hands a little dirty in the process.”

The Canyons (2013), Lindsay Lohan's demimonde film.

It was Alexandre Dumas’ play Le Demi Monde (1855) which popularized the use but in earlier works, notably La Dame aux Camélias (1848), the character of the demi-mondaine is identifiable although in that work the doomed protagonist is more of a courtesan whereas as used during the second half of the century, the term really wasn’t applied to that class and was most associated with women on the margins of “respectable society” who lived lavishly thanks to wealthy patrons; subtly different from a courtesan.  The literal translation “half-world” implied an existence halfway between the “proper" world and that of the disreputable and that was the sense in the late Victorian era of the Belle Époque era: glamorous but morally ambiguous women, living on the margins of high society in a state of the tolerably scandalous.  Social mores and moral codes are of course fluid and in the first half of the twentieth century the meaning shifted to encompass some other marginalized or shadowy subcultures and ones which encompassed not only women and the association was no longer of necessity associated with sexual conduct.  Thus bohemian artists, the underground nightlife, those who live by gambling and later the counter-cultural movements all came to be described as demimonde.  What that meant was these was less of a meaning shift than an expansion, the word now applied to many groups existing in some way not wholly outside the mainstream but neither entirely in conformity.  There were thus many demimondes and that use persists to this day although the air of the glamorous depicted by Dumas is now often absent, some demimondes distinctly squalid and definitely disreputable.

By the late nineteenth century the notion of the demimonde had attracted the avant-garde and non-conformists, their circles of artists, writers and intellectuals in their own way vested with the edgy glamour of the type attached to the salons the well-kept mistresses conducted in parallel with those of the establishment ladies and it’s easy to draw parallels with Andy Warhol’s (1928–1987) Factory in the 1960s which was a magnet for New York’s non-mainstream “creatives” as well as the flotsam and jetsam of the art schools.  Sometimes too, there are echos, the demimonde of Berlin after the fall of the wall (1989) drawing comparisons with that described in the city during the last years the Weimar Republic (1918-1933).  So, the track of demimonde has been (1) mistresses, and women not quite respectable but with funds enough to defy conventions (nineteenth century), (2) the more subversive of the avant-garde added (early twentieth century), (3) bohemian subcultures, various “underground” scenes (mid-late twentieth century) and (4) reflecting the implication of post-modernity, anyone who likes the label.

Sarah Bernhardt (1876), oil on canvas by Georges Clairin (1843-1919).

The Parisian Belle Époque (beautiful era) was the time between the late 1800s and the outbreak of World War I (1914-1918).  For more than a century the period has been celebrated (accurately and not) in art and literature, the great paintings mush sought by collectors.  The Belle Époque is considered still one of Europe’s “golden ages” and although its charms would have escaped most of the working population, for the fortunate few it was a time of vitality and optimism and in some ways modernity’s finest hour until ended by the blast of war.  One trend was the way the cultural hegemony of the private salons of the networks of artists, aristocrats and intellectuals lost some its hold as discourse shifted to the more public (and publicized) realm of the stage, cabriolets and cafés, lending a new theatricality to society life and an essential part was the demimonde, those who operated in the swirling milieu yet were not quite an accepted part of it, their flouting of traditional mores and bourgeois politeness perhaps a little envied but not obviously embraced.  While it could be said to include drug-takers, gamblers and such, the classic exemplar in the spirit of Dumas’ demimonde was the demimondaine, those thrusting women who maintained their elevated (if not respectable) position by parlaying their attractiveness and availability to men willing to pay for the experience.  It usually wasn’t concubinage and certainly not prostitution (as understood) but it was clear les demimondaines belonged with the bohemians and artists of the avant-garde and they were known also as les grandes horizontals or mademoiselles les cocottes (hens) among other euphemisms but for youth and beauty much is tolerated if not forgiven and in all but the inner sanctums of the establishment, mostly there was peaceful co-existence.  Among the demimondaines were many actresses and dancers, a talent to entertain meaning transgressions might be overlooked or at least not much dwelt upon.  Sarah Bernhardt (1844–1923) benefited from that and her nickname monstre sacré (sacred monster) was gained by her enjoying a status which proved protective despite her life of ongoing controversy.  The Irish writer Oscar Wilde (1854–1900) also found a niche as an amusing proto-celebrity with a good stock of one-liners and being part of the demimonde of the not quite respectable was integral to the appeal although being convicted of the abominable crime of buggery proved social suicide. 

Marthe de Florian (1898), oil on canvas by Italian-born society portraitist Giovanni Boldini (1842–1931).  The painter’s style of brushwork saw him dubbed le maître du swish (the master of swish) and he was another of Mademoiselle de Florian’s many lovers.

What tends now to be forgotten is that among the demimonde it was only figures like Bernhardt and Wilde who were well known outside of society gossip.  The once obscure Marthe de Florian (1864–1939) joined the “half worlders” by being, inter-alia, the one-time lover of four subsequent prime ministers of France (a reasonable achievement even given the churn rate in the office) although she took the name she adopted from a banker; nothing really matters except money.  When the details of her life emerged, they inspired the novel A Paris Apartment (2014) by US author Michelle Gable (b 1974), a theme of which was une demimondaine could be distinguished from a common prostitute because the former included (at least as a prelude) romance with the le grande acte (acts of intimacy) and ultimately some financial consideration.  That seems not a small difference and unlike the transactional prostitute, the implication was that to succeed in their specialized profession (debatably a calling), a demimondaine needed the skills associated with the Quai d'Orsay: tact, diplomacy, finesse, daring, low cunning and high charm.  It needed also devotion to the task because for Mlle de Florian to get where she did, she inspired “some three duels, an attempted suicide and at least one déniaisé [sexual initiation] of one lover’s eldest son”.

Flare & Flair

Flair (pronounced flair)

(1) A natural or innate talent, aptitude, or ability, a bent or knack for something; instinctive discernment or perceptiveness.

(2) Smartness of style, manner, etc; stylishness or elegance.

(3) In hunting, scent; olfaction, the sense of smell (now rare).

(4) In Scots, a word for floor.

1350–1400: From the Middle English flayre, from the Old English flōr, from the Old French flaire (scent; odour (literally “sense of smell”) which endures in Modern French as flarier), a noun derivative of flairier (to reek; to give off a smell), ultimately from unattested Vulgar Latin flāgrāre, a dissimilated variant of the Classical Latin frāgrāre (to smell sweet), source also of fragrant in Modern English).  The related Latin form was flāgrō, a dissimilated variation of the verb frāgrō (emit a sweet smell).  In modern use, the original sense (scent, sense of smell etc) is rare and restricted to niches such as hunting and historical fiction.  The sense of "special aptitude" is an invention of American English, dating from 1925, probably from hunting and the notion of a hound's innate and extraordinary ability to track scent.  Flair is a noun & verb, flairing & flaired are verbs and flairish & flairless are adjectives; the noun plural is flairs.  

The popular uses now refer to (1) matters of style or (2) a particular talent or aptitude: “He has a flair for the business”.  That was Winston Churchill's (1875-1965; UK prime-minister 1940-1945 & 1951-1955) grudging assessment in 1944 of Field Marshal Sir Alan Brooke (later Lord Alanbrooke; 1883-1963, Chief of the Imperial General Staff (CIGS) 1941-1946) as a general.  It was about as close to praise as the CIGS received from his chief; the prime-minister liked his soldiers dashing and daring rather than cautious and conscientious.  The most common synonyms now (depending on context) include chic, dash, élan, grace, verve, oomph, ability, aptitude, elegance, genius, gift, glamour, knack, mastery, taste, bent, faculty, feeling, head, panache & pizzazz.

Flares worn with flair: Lindsay Lohan (left) in peach colored flared trousers with lampasse (the "general staff" side-stripe), Los Angeles, 2012 and (right) out shopping in flared jeans, Milan, 2015.

Flare (pronounced flair)

(1) To burn with an unsteady, swaying flame, as a torch or candle in the wind; the flame of this type.

(2) To blaze with a sudden burst of flame (often followed by up); the flame of this type.

(3) To start up or burst out in sudden, fierce intensity or activity (often followed by up).

(4) To become suddenly enraged; express sudden, fierce anger or passion (usually followed by up or out).

(5) To shine or glow.

(6) To spread gradually outward, as the end of a trumpet, the bottom of a wide skirt, or the sides of a ship.

(7) To display conspicuously or ostentatiously to display.

(8) To signal by flares of fire or light.

(9) To cause (something) to spread gradually outward in form.

(10) In metallurgy, to heat a high-zinc brass to such a high temperature that the zinc vapors begin to burn; to increase the temperature of (a molten metal or alloy) until a gaseous constituent of the melt burns with a characteristic flame or (of a molten metal or alloy) to show such a flame.

(11) In hydrocarbon extraction, to discharge and burn (excess gas) at a well or refinery.

(12) A bright blaze of fire or light used as a signal, a means of illumination or guidance etc; the device or substance used to produce such a blaze of fire or light.

(13) In fashion, a gradual spread outward in form; as in a skirt or trousers (known also as bell-bottoms).

(14) In engineering, an outward extension, usually as a curvature.

(15) In automotive design, an extension at the wheel arch of the fender (mudguard) to ensure tyres don’t extend beyond the bodywork.

(16) Something that spreads out.

(17) In optics, light, often unwanted or extraneous, reaching the image plane of an optical instrument, as a camera, resulting from reflections, scattering by lenses, and the like.

(18) In photography, a fogged appearance given to an image by reflection within a camera lens or within the camera itself.

(19) In astronomy (commonly as solar flare), a sudden and brief brightening of the solar atmosphere in the vicinity of a sunspot that results from an explosive release of particles and radiation.

(20) In US football (NFL), a short pass thrown to a back who is running toward a sideline and is not beyond the line of scrimmage.

(21) In television, a dark area on a CRT picture tube caused by variations in light intensity (mostly archaic).

(22) In aviation, the final transition phase of an aircraft landing, from the steady descent path to touchdown; to operate an aircraft to transition from downward flight to level flight just before landing.

(23) In pathology, an area of redness on the skin surrounding the primary site of infection or irritation.

(24) In engineering, as flare tube fitting, a flare nut being used to secure the flared tubing’s tapered end to the also tapered fitting, producing a pressure-resistant, leak-tight seal.

(25) In baseball (also as blooper or Texas leaguer), a low-fly ball that is hit in the region between the infielders and the outfielders.

(26) An inflammation such as of tendons (tendonitis) or joints (osteoarthritis).

(27) In pyrotechnics (also as Bengal light or fusee) a colored flare used as a warning on a railroad.  In US use, a parachute flare or Very light.

1540-1550: Of uncertain origin, the verb not appearing in English until the mid-sixteenth century, most etymologists thinking it probably related to the Latin flagrō (I burn) and may be from a Scandinavian source or the Dutch vlederen.  The Norwegian flara (to blaze; to flaunt in gaudy attire) has a similar meaning, but the English word predates it so it’s presumed derivative.  There may be some relationship with the Middle High German vlederen (to flutter (and represented in modern German by flattern)) but the evidence is scant.  In English, the original meaning was “spread out” (as applied to hair (and later structures such as the sides of ships)) leading to a comparison with the Old English flǣre (either of the spreading sides at the end of the nose).  The meaning "shine out with a sudden light" dates from the 1630s while the notion of "spreading out in display" emerged in the 1640s and is the source of the modern association with things which "spread gradually outward".

The hauntingly lovely Brigitte Bardot (1934-2025), Paris, France, 1961.  The car from which she's alighting is a Simca Chambord (1958-1961), powered by a French-built version of the old US Ford Flathead V8-60 with the displacement increased from 2.2 litres (136 cubic inch) to 2.4 (144) and rated at 84 HP (horsepower).  It was an example of the Europeans untypically getting a larger version of something than US buyers.

Mademoiselle Bardot is wearing what the industry called a “fit-and-flare dress”, the first element an allusion to the closely-fitted “shirtwaist”, the latter referencing the exaggerated lairing of the skirt.  The garments were produced as dresses but the same look could be achieved on a mix & match basis with a top/skirt combo.  Either way, the defining features were (1) a fitted bodice (often structured or darted), (2) a nipped-in waist, a voluminous skirt (often with a lightweight internal structure or a similarly supportive petticoat and (3) a knee-length hemline.  Although there were many interpretations, on catwalks or in catalogues, the fashion houses presented them usually with short sleeves and vertical stripes were popular, a trick use to create a visual perception of height, counter-balancing the sheer width created by the flaring.  Even more than most styles, the “fit-and-flare” look really worked well only on the slender and preferably tall.  Historians of fashion regard “fit-and-flare dress” as a continuation of the silhouette defined by the “New Look–influenced day dress” associated with Christian Dior’s (1905–1957) late-1940s collections.

Brigitte Bardot posing with her 1954 Simca Type 9 Weekend Cabriolet at the family home, Louveciennes, France, 1955.  Whatever she wore, she wore with flair.

Mademoiselle Bardot for some years (apparently contentedly) drove a 1954 Simca Type 9 Weekend Cabriolet which was a fully-finished, pre-production prototype.  The factory provided her with the car to generate publicity and in what was apparently a rather loose contra-arrangement, she did some promotional work for Simca (such as being photographed adoring their cars) and after some six years in her hands, the car was passed (either sold or gifted, both tales appear) to her friend and neighbour, the French sculptor César Baldaccini (1921–1998).  The cabriolet still exists and is on permanent display at the Lane Motor Museum in Nashville, Tennessee.

1968 Porsche 911S (left), 1978 Porsche 911 Turbo (930, centre), the flared wheel arches meaning the style came to be called the “wide-body”, a term later applied to machines in this style from other manufacturers and a modified 1979 Porsche 930 (right) with the even wider flares often seen on such cars.

The noun flare (a giving off of a bright, unsteady light) dates from 1814 and was derived from the verb; from this followed (by 1883) the sense of "signal fire" (1883). Astronomical use dates from 1937.  The general meaning "a gradual widening or spreading" is emerged circa 1910, the best known modern example probably the “flares” (flared trousers), first noted in 1964, actually an adaptation of earlier forms of design but a fashion trend which is associated with the hippie era and lasting until the mid 1970s.  Flares then became suddenly unfashionable but revivals since have been frequent and they now enjoy a standardized niche in the industry.  In idiomatic use, the flare-up (a sudden burst) applied by 1827 to an argument and by 1858 to light, derived from the verbal phrase and contemporary publications noted the vogue flare-up enjoyed as a street expression in 1830s London.  The 1660s noun flatus (wind in the bowels) was a direct borrowing from the Latin flatus (a blowing, breathing, snorting; a breaking wind), past participle of flare (to blow, puff) from the primitive Indo-European root bhle- (to blow).  From this came the 1590s adjective flatulent (affected by digestive gas), from the sixteenth century French flatulent, from the Modern Latin flatulentus, from Latin flatus.  Synonyms, depending on context, include flame, erupt, explode, flash, blaze, blaze, boil over, break out, burn, explode, flare up, flash, flicker, glow, seethe, widen, burst, dart, dazzle, flutter, fume, glare, rant, shimmer & broaden.  Flare is a noun & verb, flared is a verb & adjective and flaring is a verb; the noun plural is flares.

1963 AC Shelby Cobra 289 (left) and 1967 AC Shelby Cobra 427 S/C (right) with flared wheel arches.  Aspects of the bulge-bodied 427 had actually already been seen on competition versions of the 289 and it has for decades been the most popular style of body (regardless of the engine installed) used by producers of replicas, there now being in excess of 50,000 of these, dwarfing the production of the thousand-odd originals.  One way to upset the Cobra purists is to refer to genuine Shelby American AC Cobras in the original body-style (1963-1965) as the "slab-side", a term created to distinguish between the two designs used by the replica Cobra ecosystem.

1974 Holden LH Torana SL/R 5000 L34.

For many years, most cars have used slightly flared wheel arches but more exaggerated extensions often are added to high-performance models to enable wider wheels and tyres to be fitted.  If the high-performance version is to be a regular-production model, the usual practice is the integrate the flares into the fender.  Limited production models however often have flares added which are obviously “tacked-on” and that can be part of the attraction, giving the things the appearance of something obviously intended for competition, emphasizing too their “limited production” status.  Holden's Torana L34 (1974) & A9X (1977) were produced to homologate various pieces of equipment for competition including the fibreglass flares and part of their brutish appeal lies in them being so clearly "tacked on", the securing bolts attaching them to the fenders left exposed, thus generating an alluring "race car" vibe.

2023 Dodge Challenger SRT Demon 170 Jailbreak in Panther Pink with two-piece "underwires".

Some versions of the Dodge Challenger (2008-2023 and a revival of the style of the 1970-1974 (E-body) range) were fitted with wheel-arch flares and whether a pair appeared only at the rear or at all four corners depended on specification, the former optimized for straight-line performance (ie drag-racing), the latter as all-purpose, high performance variants.

The “Panther Pink” Challenger was one of a small build in the "Demon 170 Jailbreak program" which included 40 exclusive paint colors, access to these by manufacturer’s invitation only.  The option was documented as providing a “one of one” finish (a US$29,995 option) and the color range included a number of the “heritage shades” on the charts for the 1970 Challenger which in many ways was the season of "peak craziness".  Only one was finished in Panther Pink (M3) and its unique “one-of-one” status saw it in February, 2025 realize US$450,000 when auctioned on Bring-a-Trailer, an impressive capital gain against the original invoiced cost of US$195,946, the option a good investment.  The 1970 color chart is remembered not only for the lurid hues which grabbed the psychedelic moment of the era but also the imaginative names which included Plum Crazy, In-Violet, Tor Red, Sub Lime, Sassy Grass, Panther Pink, Moulin Rouge, Top Banana, Lemon Twist & Citron Yella.  Although it may be an industry myth, the story told is that Plum Crazy & In-Violet (shades of purple) were late additions because the killjoy board refused to sign-off on Statutory Grape.  That all this weirdness happened during the administration of Richard Nixon (1913-1994; US president 1969-1974) & Spiro Agnew (1918–1996; US vice president 1969-1973) is one of the footnotes in cultural history.

2023 Dodge Challenger SRT Super Stock in White Knuckle with satin black accents over black Laguna leather.

Unexpectedly, during the 2010s, "underwire" entered the lexicon of automotive slang when it was used to describe a plastic part fitted temporarily as a protective piece.  The yellow plastic fitting (pictured above on the leading edge of the Challenger's splitter) was called a "splitter guard" which was unimaginative but the factory didn't envisage them as consumer items and the term was merely explanatory for the information of those preparing cars for sale.  Installed to prevent damage during shipping, it was part of dealer preparation instructions to remove the pieces but leaving them attached became a cult and some cars were even retro-fitted.  Dealers cautioned against the trend, noting the pieces weren't specifically molded to ensure a perfect fit so dirt and moisture were prone to being trapped in the gaps and this could scuff the paint.  They were known also as "damage guards" and "scuff guards" but more imaginative souls dubbed them the "underwire" while serious students of such things suggested a better simile might have been "pastie", while acknowledging Chrysler followed the lead of the underwear manufacturers in having available both single and two-piece "underwires" although this was coincidental and deterministic, dictated by the splitter design.  Women have been known to remove from bras especially intrusive underwires (a "comfort thing") but whether on splitters they were kept or discarded might have seemed an improbable subject for dispute but with cars, men always find a reason to argue about something.  Although probably it would have preferred to discuss horsepower, superchargers and such, Chrysler noted the cultural phenomenon and, while obviously reluctant to upset either faction, did issue a statement to a magazine which had requested comment:

"The splitter guards on Dodge Charger and Challenger have taken on a life of their own. They originally made their debut in the 2015 model year to protect the performance fascias on SRT models during shipment from the manufacturing facility to the dealer, and, yes, they are designed to be removed before delivery.  But today, they have their own Facebook page, and many of our performance enthusiasts have active debates on whether to keep or remove them. Some owners say they are even selling them in the aftermarket.  Obviously, they weren't part of the original design, so we started with yellow guards and shifted to pink, but they are still so popular that we may shift them yet again to black. Wherever we land, this is another example of how our customers are passionate about every part of their Dodge muscle cars."

Peter Brock, Austin A30-Holden with "square flares", Hume Weir, 1969.

In Australia, what became the “sports sedans” began in the mid-1960s as a distinctly amateur form of racing called “Sports Racing Closed” which was closer to Formula Libre than any of the rule-bound categories in the mainstream.  What rules there were initially demanded little more than the use of some sort of saloon car (loosely interpreted) with certain safety fittings such as a roll-cage but beyond that builders were limited only by their budget and imagination.  As a non-professional, semi-official category, budgets tended to be tight but deeply imaginations (along with wrecking yards) were mined to compensate and Peter Brock’s (1945-2006) Austin A30 (1951-1956) was illustrative of the approach taken by many, the body shell coming from one wrecking yard while the 179 cubic inch (2.9 litre) straight-six came from a written-off Holden HD (1965-1966 and the “highly dangerous” in the local slang) in another.  The theory was to find the smallest and lightest car and install the biggest, most powerful engine one could afford and Brock’s A30 was thus transformed from a small, economy car (one originally fitted with a 803 cm³ (49 cubic inch) engine) from the 1950s into a genuinely fast (if somewhat unstable) race car.  Under the skin was a frame constructed from the square-section tubing of a Triumph Herald (another find at a wrecker) and because, in a quest for stability, the front and rear tracks significantly were widened, the protruding tyres had to be covered and that was done in the most simple way known: square flares, fibre glass extensions extending at right angles from the sides, neatly integrated in this case with the front spoiler.  Very powerful and on a short wheelbase, stability was never more than marginal but Brock won over a hundred races with the thing before going on to bigger and better things.  The racing establishment looked (down) upon the Sports Racing Closed category disapprovingly and would liked it to have gone away but, fast and loud, the crowds loved it so race organizers were anxious to invite the little hot rods to compete, knowing they’d draw a large (paying) audience.  By 1969, things had developed to the point where rather than just stage stand-alone races, what was planned was the “Australian Sports Sedan Championship” but CAMS (the Confederation of Australian Motor Sport, then the sport’s national regulatory body) refused to grant these upstarts the dignity of a “championship” and would concede only that they may contest a “trophy”.  The dam had however been breached and from that beginning, the sports sedans entered the mainstream, becoming one of the most popular categories of the 1970s.

Harry Lefoe in Hillman Imp-Ford.  Still with small square flares, trying to find traction, Oran Park 1970 (left), be-winged in an attempt to stay on the track, Hume Weir, 1971 (centre) and in final (wing plucked and flares added) form, Hume Weir 1974 (right).

That drew in television coverage, sponsorship and the involvement of factories, a new professionalism which doomed the era of hybrid machines built with parts salvaged from wrecking yards.  In the last days of amateurism however there were still a few old-school machines fielded and there was one even wilder than Brock’s A30.  The Hillman Imp's (1963-1976) light weight and diminutive dimensions held great appeal for Australian earth-moving contractor Harry Lefoe (1936-2000) who had a spare 302 cubic inch (4.9 litre) Ford (Windsor) V8 sitting in his workshop.  By 1969 the Imp was a Chrysler product and the recently formed Australian Sports Sedan Association (ASSA) had published guidelines which included restricting engines to those from cars built by the manufacturer of the body-shell but because the Windsor V8 had earlier been used in the Sunbeam (a corporate companion to Hillman) Tiger (1964-1967) the mix qualified.  So the big lump of an iron V8 replaced the Imp's 875 cm3 (53 cubic inch) aluminium four and such was the difference in size that Lefoe insisted his Imp had become "mid-engined" although it seems not to have imparted the handling characteristics associated with the configuration, the stubby hybrid infamous for its tendency to travel sideways.  It was never especially successful but even more than most at the time it was loud, fast, spectacular and always a crowd favourite.  Again the prodigious power and short wheelbase made the thing “twitchy” and in an attempt to improve traction and keep the rear wheels in contact with the road Lefoe fitted an elevated wing in the style which had been briefly popular in Formula One and the Can Am until being banned following a number of accidents caused by component failure.  In Australia a similar ban was soon imposed so Lefoe’s only obvious path to grip was to fit wider tyres which necessitated the fashioning of enveloping flares.  The approach brought some success but it was the end of an era as the fields increasingly were filled by highly developed (and expensive) machines, created often with factory support and the use of chassis not far removed from open-wheel racing cars.  Lefoe’s Imp was most influential because the car which in the mid 1970s was the dominant sports sedan was a (much modified) Chevrolet Corvair, another rear-engine machine transformed into something mid-engined.  So dominant was it the rules were changed limiting how far an engine could be moved from the original location.

1974 Ford Cologne Capri.  Factories with bigger budgets used wind-tunnels (these days computer modelling handles much of this) to optimize the shape of flares, often using them to direct airflow to radiators or brakes as well as permit the fitment of wider tyres.  Even in the early 1970s the flares were being shaped to contribute to downforce as well as provide the mandated coverage of the tyres.

1987 Mercedes-Benz 300 E (left) and 1991 Mercedes-Benz 500 E; note the modest flared wheel arches on the 500E which added about two inches to the width of the car, something which proved surprisingly significant.

In 1991, Mercedes-Benz finally gave the W124 (1984-1995 (body-styles other than the four-door sedan would remain in production until 1997 and 46 500 Es were actually built in 1990)) an engine with the power to exploit the fine underpinnings.  The 500 E (later E 500 when the naming system was updated) was a response to demand from those who hankered after something like the old 300 SEL 6.3 (W109 1968-1972) as well as a long-overdue model to compete with BMW’s M5 but, with development of the new S-Class (W140 1991-1998) over-budget and behind schedule, the production work on the 500 E project was out-sourced to Porsche.  Porsche’s engineers did a good job mating the 5.0 litre (303 cubic inch) V8 to the chassis, a task which included some modifications to the suspension and a flaring of the wheel arches to accommodate the wider track.  So subtle were the flares that they’re almost imperceptible to the casual viewer and without a standard W124 with which to compare, probably few notice.  That’s not surprising given the 500 E was a modest 56 mm (2.2 inches) wider than the more prosaic models (1,796 mm (70.7 in) vs 1,740 mm (68.5 in)).

1993 Mercedes-Benz E 500 Limited.  The variegated leathers used in the E500 Limited were much admired.  

However, those two-odd inches of additional width created by the wheel arch flares proved an unanticipated obstacle to volume production, the prototype found to be too wide to proceed at several points where the W124 production line turned corners.  As a glitch (in communication and systems management rather than engineering), it recalled an incident which afflicted the somewhat more ambitious Hubble Space Telescope (HST) which, upon deployment, was found to have one incorrectly ground mirror, blurring the images.  In software and hardware, NASA (National Aeronautics and Space Administration) found a solution, a part of which was effected during a celebrated (and anyway scheduled) servicing mission.  On Earth, things were simpler for Mercedes-Benz which contracted with Porsche to handle part of the production process, the cars shuttled by truck between the two factories, located a few miles apart in Stuttgart.  That was inconvenient for Mercedes-Benz but fortuitous for Porsche, which, hard-hit by the recession-induced downturn in the sports car market, needed something to with which to make use of their now substantially idle facilities.  The well-publicized arrangement meant it took eighteen days to complete every 500 E but it added to the allure of the car and even at a very high price, 10,479 were sold and they were in many ways the blueprint for the AMG range which followed.  Encouraged by the success, the factory released the 400 E (1991-1995 and later renamed E 420) which, with a 4.2 litre (256 cubic inch) V8, didn’t demand the fitment of the five litre car’s wider track and flared wheel arches.  Being thus able to use the standard W124 production line, it was built at a much lower cost and 22,802 were sold.  The W124 line is regarded still as "peak E-Class" and nothing since has matched its build-quality or integrity of design.

Built by Ferrari: 1973 Dino 246 GTS with "chairs & flares" options.  These days, no longer dismissed as "Fiats", the Dinos are an accepted part of the family, the embrace doubtless partly induced by the high prices they command in the collector market despite being produced in a relatively high volume. 

The rhyming colloquialism “chairs and flares” (C&F to the Ferrari cognoscenti) is a reference to a pair of (separately available) options available on later production Dino 246s.  The options were (1) seats with inserts (the latter sometimes in a contrasting color) in the style used on the 365 GTB/4 (Daytona) & (2) wider Campagnolo Elektron wheels (which the factory only ever referred to by size) which necessitated flared wheel-arches.  In the early 1970s the factory wasn’t too punctilious in the keeping of records so it’s not known how many cars were originally built equipped with the wider (7½ x 14” vs 6½ x 14”) wheels but some privately maintained registers exist and on the basis of these it’s believed production was probably between 200-250 cars from a total run of 3569 (2,295 GT coupés & 1,274 GTS spyders (targa)).  They appear to have been most commonly ordered on UK & US market cars (although the numbers for Europe are described as “dubious” and thought an under-estimate; there are also an unknown number in other countries), the breakdown of verified production being:

246 GT: UK=22, Europe=5, US=5.
246 GTS: UK=21, Europe=2, US=91.

The “chairs and flares” cars are those which have both the Elektron option and the Daytona-style seats but because they were available separately, some were built with only one of the two, hence the existence of other slang terms in the Dino world including “Daytona package”, “Sebring spyder” (a strange concoction given Ferrari only ever used the spelling "spyder" for the 250 GT California Spyder (1957-1963) and otherwise used "spider") and, in the UK, the brutish “big arches”.  In 1974, the Dino's option list (in US$) comprised:

Power windows: $270.00
Metallic paint: $270.00
Leather upholstery: $450.00
Daytona type central seat panels: $115.00
Air-conditioning: $770.00
14 x 7½ wheels & fender flares: $680.00
AM/FM/SW radio: $315.00
Electric antenna & speakers: $100.00

At a combined US$795.00, the C&F combination has proved a good investment, now adding significantly to the price of the anyway highly collectable 246 and while it's hard in every instance to estimate the added value because so many other factors influence calculation, all else being equal, the premium is well over US$100,000.  Because it involves only wheels, upholstery and metal, the modifications can be emulated and while the price of a modified vehicle will not match that of an original, unlike some of the more radical modifications to Ferraris (such as conversions from berlinettas (coupés) to spiders (convertibles of some sort)), creating a C&F out of a standard 246 seems not to lower its value.  These things are always relative; in 1974 the C&F option added 5.2% to the Dino GTS's MRP (manufacturer's recommended price) or just under a third the cost of a new small car such as the Ford Pinto (then pre fuel-tankgate).  The  Dino GTS's MRP (for the US east coast) was US$15,225 while comparable MRPs for cars without options were at the time US$8475.00 for a Jaguar E-Type roadster, US$15,455 for a Mercedes-Benz 450 SL, US$10,800 for a Porsche 911 Targa and US$5,499 for a Chevrolet Corvette Convertible with the 454 cubic inch (7.4 litre) engine.  By 2024, at auction, exceptional 246 C&F cars were selling for over US$800,000 although that was still less than the earlier and visually similar 206 GT (152 examples produced between 1967-1969) which can command a million.  

Gas flaring on off-shore oil-rig.

It’s surprising gas flaring isn’t more controversial even than it is.  A practice which dates from the earliest days of oil extraction, it was originally merely a safety procedure, disposing of the surplus and unwanted gas unavoidably associated with oil production but has long been recognized as wasteful of a valuable natural resource which, if harvested, could be used to generate energy now produced by more polluting sources such as coal; the volume of gas flared annually (ie burned off in the atmosphere) is sufficient to satisfy the energy needs of all sub-Saharan Africa.  Additionally, the flaring process, which annually burns some 144 billion m³ of gas, is estimated to contribute to the atmosphere about 2.8 kilograms of CO₂ equivalent emissions for each m³, resulting in over 400 million tons of CO₂ annually and, the methane emissions resulting from the inefficiency of the flare combustion contribute significantly to global warming.  This is especially acute in the medium term because methane is over 80 times more powerful than CO₂ as a greenhouse gas so on a 20-year timeframe, the multiplier effect means the annual CO₂ equivalent emissions are increased by nearly 100 million tons.  There are technical solutions to this which would remove the need for most flaring as well as providing a valuable energy source less polluting than coal or diesel but, for the oil industry, the economics are not compelling.  Nor, given the relationships between the fossil-fuel industry and politicians, does there seem to be any hint of political will to pursue the issue.