Knickers (pronounced nik-erz)
(1) Loose-fitting short
trousers gathered in at the knees.
(2) A bloomers-like
undergarment worn by women.
(3) A general term for the panties
worn by women.
(4) In product ranges, a
descriptor of certain styles of panties, usually the short-legged underpants
worn by women or girls.
(5) In slang, a mild
expression of annoyance (archaic).
1866: A clipping of knickerbockers
(the plural and a special use of knickerbocker). The use is derived from the short breeches
worn by Diedrich Knickerbocker in George Cruikshank's illustrations of
Washington Irving's (1783-1859) A History
of New York (1809), published under the pen-name Dietrich Knickbocker. The surname Knickerbocker (also spelled
Knikkerbakker, Knikkerbacker, and Knickerbacker) is a American creation, based on
the names of early Dutch early settlers of New Netherland, thought probably
derived from the Dutch immigrant Harmen Jansen van Bommel(l), who went
variously by the names van Wy(y)e, van Wyekycback(e), Kinnekerbacker,
Knickelbacker, Knickerbacker, Kinckerbacker, Nyckbacker, and Kynckbacker. The precise etymology is a mystery, speculations
including a corruption of the Dutch Wyekycback, the Dutch knacker (cracker) + the
German Bäcker (or the Dutch bakker (baker)), or the Dutch knicker (marble (toy))
+ the German Bäcker (or the Dutch bakker).
Aside from the obvious application (of or relating to knickerbockers),
it was in the US used attributively as a modifier, referencing the social class
with which the garment was traditionally associated; this use is now listed as archaic. Knickers is a noun and is one of those words which serves also as a plural.

Men in knickerbockers.Washington Irving was a US writer, historian and diplomat, most remembered today
as the author of Rip Van Winkle (1819).
Although the bulk of his work was that of a conventional historian, his
early writing was satirical, many of his barbs aimed at New York’s high society
and it was Irving who in 1807 first gave NYC the nickname "Gotham"
(from the Anglo-Saxon, literally “homestead where goats are kept”, the
construct being the Old English gāt (goat)
+ hām (home)). The name Diedrich Knickerbocker he introduced in 1809 in A History of New York (the original
title A History of New-York from the
Beginning of the World to the End of the Dutch Dynasty). A satire of local politics and personalities,
it was also an elaborate literary hoax, Irving through rumor and missing person
advertisements creating the impression Mr Knickerbocker had vanished from his
hotel, leaving behind nothing but a completed manuscript. The story captured the public imagination and,
under the Knickerbocker pseudonym, Irving published A History of New York to critical and commercial success. The name Diedrich Knickerbocker became a
nickname for the Manhattan upper-class (later extended to New Yorkers in
general) and was adopted by the New York Knickerbockers basketball team
(1845-1873), the name revived in 1946 for the team now part of the US National
Basketball League although their name usually appears as the New York Knicks. The figurative use to describe New Yorkers of
whatever status faded from use early in the twentieth century. Knickerbocker was of course a real name, one
of note the US foreign correspondent HR Knickerbocker (1898–1949) who in 1936
was a journalist for the Hearst Press, accredited to cover the Spanish Civil
War (1936-1940). Like many foreign reporters, his
work made difficult by the military censors who, after many disputes, early in
1937 deported him after he’d tried to report the retreat of one of the brigades
supplied by Benito Mussolini (1883-1945; Duce (leader) & prime-minister of Italy 1922-1943) with the words “The
Italians fled, lock, stock and barrel-organ”.

Kiki de Montparnasse lace knickers, US$190 at FarFetch. It was in the Knickerbocker tale of 1809 that Washington made the first known reference in print to the doughnut (after the 1940s often as "donut" in North American use although that spelling was noted as early as the mid-nineteenth century) although the “small, spongy cake made of dough and fried in lard”) was probably best described as “a lump” because there seems to be no suggestion the size and exact shape of the things were in any way standardized beyond being vaguely roundish. It’s not clear when the holes became common, the first mention of them apparently in 1861 at which time one writer recorded that in New York City (the old New Amsterdam) they were known also as olycokes (from the Dutch oliekoek (oily cake) and some food guides of the era listed doughnuts and crullers as “types of olycoke”.

For designers, conventional
knickers can be an impediment so are sometimes
discarded: Polish model Anja Rubik (b 1983), Met Gala, New York City, May, 2012. Note
JBF hair-style and commendable hip-bone definition.
Knickers
dates from 1866, in reference to loose-fitting pants for men worn buckled or
buttoned at the waist and knees, a clipping of knickerbockers, used since 1859
and so called for their because of their resemblance to the trousers of
old-time Dutchmen in George Cruikshank's (1792-1878) illustrations in the History of
New York. A now extinct derivation
was the Scottish nicky-tam (garter
worn over trousers), dating from 1911, a shortened, colloquial form, the
construct being knickers + the Scottish & northern English dialect taum, from Old Norse taumr (cord, rein, line), cognate with the
Old English team, the root sense of
which appears to be "that which draws". It was originally a string tied by Scottish
farmers around rolled-up trousers to keep the legs of them out of the dirt (in
the style of the plus-fours once associated with golf, so-named because they
were breeches with four inches of excess material which could hang in a fold
below the fastening beneath the knee, the plus-four a very similar style to the
classic knickerbocker). The word “draws”
survives in Scots-English to refer to trousers in general. It
also had a technical use in haberdashery, describing a linsey-woolsey fabric
with a rough knotted surface on the right side which was once a popular fabric
for women's dresses.

Cami-knickers,
1926, Marshalls & Snelgrove, Oxford Street, London.
The New York garment
industry in 1882 adopted knickers to describe a "short, loose-fitting
undergarment for women" apparently because of the appeal of the name. By 1884, the word had crossed the Atlantic
and in both France and the UK was used to advertise the flimsier of women’s “unmentionables”
and there have long many variations (although there’s not always a consistency
of style between manufacturers) including Camiknickers,
French Knickers and (the somewhat misleading) No
Knickers (which are knickers claimed to be "so comfortable you won't believe you're wearing them", said also to be the yardstick used to find the "perfect bra"). From the very start, women’s
knickers were, as individual items, sold as “a pair” and there’s no “knicker”
whereas the singular form knickerbocker, unlike the plural, may only refer to a
single garment. In the matter of English
constructed plurals, the history matters rather than any rule. Shoes and socks are obviously both a pair because
that’s how they come but a pair of trousers seems strange because it’s a single
item. That’s because modern "trousers" evolved from the Old Scots Trews, Truis
& Triubhas and the Middle English
trouzes & trouse which were separate items (per leg) and thus supplied in
pairs, the two coverings joined by a breechcloth or a codpiece. A pair of spectacles (glasses) is similar in
that lens were originally separate (al la the monocle), things which could be purchased
individually or as a pair. The idea of a
pair of knickers was natural because it was an adaptation of earlier use for
the men’s garments, sold as “pairs of knickerbockers” or “pairs of knickers”.

Advertisement
for French lingerie, 1958. Now owned by Munich-based
Triumph International GmbH, Valisère was in the early twentieth century founded
as a glove manufacturer by Perrin family in Grenoble, Isère (thus the name). Until 1922, exclusively it made fabric gloves
but in 1922 expanded to produce fine lingerie and instantly was successful, in
the coming years opening factories in Brazil and then Morocco.
In English,
euphemisms for underwear (especially those of women) have come and gone. In that, the churn-rate is an example of the linguistic
treadmill: Terms created as “polite forms” become as associated with the items
they describe as the word they replaced and thus also come to be thought “common”,
“rude” or “vulgar” etc, thus necessitating replacement. Even the now common “lingerie” (in use in
English by at least 1831), had its moments of controversy in the US where, in
the mid-nineteenth century, on the basis of being so obviously “foreign” and
thus perhaps suggestive of things not desirable, decent folk avoided it. It was different in England where it was used
by manufacturers and retailers to hint at “continental elegance” and imported lacy,
frilly or silk underwear for women would often be advertised as “Italian
lingerie” or “French lingerie”. That was
commercial opportunism because lingerie was from the French lingerie (linen
closet) and thus deconstructs in English use as “linen underwear” but any sense
of the exclusive use of “linen” was soon lost and the association with “luxury”
stuck, lingerie coming to be understood as those undergarments which were
delicate or expensive; what most wore as “everyday” wear wouldn’t be so
described.

Christmas
lights in the centre of Eislingen, Germany, 3 December 2015.
A town of over
20,000 souls in the district of Göppingen in Baden-Württemberg which lies in
Germany’s south, the (presumably unintentional), “knickers theme” Christmas
lights the good burghers choose in 2015 seem to have induced much envy because
on social media there were many posts claiming them for other places including Tomsk,
Sevastopol and Kutaisi.
Although apparently seen
used in 1866 and by the early 1880s in general commercial use to describe “underpants”
(dating from 1871) for women or girls”, “knickers” was not the last word on the
topic, “undies” (1906), “panties” (1908) and “briefs” (1934) following. However, for those with delicate
sensibilities, mention of “knickers” (one’s own or another’s) could be avoided
because there evolved a long list of euphemisms, including “inexpressible” “unmentionables”
(1806); “indispensables” (1820); “ineffable” (1823); “unutterables” (1826); “innominables”
(1827); “inexplicable” (1829); “unimaginable” (1833), and “unprintables”
(1860). In modern use, “unmentionables”
is still heard although use is now exclusively ironic but the treadmill is
still running because as the indispensable Online Etymology Dictionary noted
when compiling that list, “intimates” seems (in the context of knickers and such
to have come into use as recently as 1988; it’s short for “intimate apparel”,
first used 99 years earlier.

Beknickered or knickered: Lindsay
Lohan in
cage bra and knickers, Complex Magazine photo-shoot, 2011. In the technical sense, were the distinctive elements of a cage bra truly to be structural, the essential components would be the
underwire and
gore.
The bra, like a
pair of knckers, is designed obviously to accommodate a pair yet is described
in the singular for reasons different again.
Its predecessor, the bodice, was often supplied in two pieces (and was
thus historically referred to as “a pair of bodies” (and later “a pair of
bodicies”)) and laced together but that’s unrelated to the way a bra is described:
It’s a clipping of the French brassière
and that is singular. Brasserie entered
English in the late nineteenth century although the French original often more
closely resembled a chemise or camisole, the adoption in English perhaps influenced
by the French term for something like the modern bra being soutien-gorge (literally, "throat-supporter") which
perhaps had less appeal although it may be no worse than the more robust rehausseur de poitrine (chest uplifter)
which seems more accurate still. Being
English, "brassiere" was soon clipped to "bra" and a vast supporting industry evolved, with global annual sales estimated to exceed US$60 billon in 2025 although since Donald Trump's (b 1946; US president 2017-2021 and since 2025) imposition of increased tariffs, just about all projections in the world economy must be thought "rubbery".

Danish
model Nina Agdal (b 1992), Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Summer of Swim Fan
Festival & Concert Bash, Coney Island Beach and Boardwalk, Brooklyn, New
York, 28 August, 2016.
Ms Agdal can
be described as being “unknickered” or “knickerless”, the choice depending
presumably on what best suits the rhythm of the sentence. Those adjectives reference the absence of
knickers whereas “deknickered” describes their removal. For serious students of fashion, “unknickered”
or “knickerless” are used literally but a trap for young players is that there
are dresses designed to produce the effect when worn with specially-designed
knickers. In the same way, there is no
difference in meaning between “knickered” and “beknickered”, both a reference
to having a pair on; they’re now rare but in the US when the wearing of knickerbockers
was quite a thing, both would often appear in print. The phrase “all fur and no knickers” (also as
“all fur coat and no knickers”) conveys the critique: Having a superficially
positive appearance that is belied by the reality. That’s a slur suggesting the apparent beauty
is but a surface veneer concealing something common and differs from “beauty is
only skin deep” in that latter refers to someone or something genuinely
beautiful but in some way ugly whereas the former implies the “beauty” is fake. In that “all fur and no knickers” is related
to “mutton dressed-up as lamb” (the even more cutting put-down being “mutton
dressed as hogget”) and “all hat and no cattle”, reputed to have originated in
Texas. To “get one's knickers in a knot”
or “to get one's knickers in a twist” is to become overwrought or needlessly upset
over some trivial matter or event. Used
usually as the admonition: “Don’t get your knickers in a knot (or twist)”, the
companion phrase being “keep your knickers on” which means much the same thing:
“stay calm and don’t become flustered”. The
term “witches' knickers” is UK slang describing discarded, wind-blown plastic
bags snagged in trees and bushes. Gym
knickers traditionally were the large, loose shorts worn by girls during school
sports, the style very similar to what are now sold as “French knickers” (known
in the US also as “tap pants”).
Camiknickers are a women's undergarment covering the torso; often worn (sometimes
in decorated form) under short dresses or with slacks, the industry mostly has
switched to marketing them under the names Teddy, Tedi or bodysuit.