Thursday, March 9, 2023

Hem

 Hem (pronounced hemm)

(1) To fold back and sew down the edge of (cloth, a garment, etc.); form an edge or border on or around (short for hemline).

(2) To enclose or confine (usually followed by in, around, or about).

(3) An edge made by folding back the margin of cloth and sewing it down.

(4) The edge or border of a garment, drape, etc, especially at the bottom.

(5) The edge, border, or margin of anything.

(6) In architecture, the raised edge forming the volute of an ionic capital.

(7) In literature, a device (sometimes explicitly oral) to indicate hesitation or faltering.

(8) In textual transcription, a representation of the sound of clearing the throat, used to gain attention, express hesitation, etc (onomatopoeic).

Pre-1000: From the Middle English hemm, from the Old English hem (probably akin to hamm (enclosure)), from the Proto-Germanic hamjam, from the Old Norse hemja (to bridle, curb).  Related words included the Swedish hämma (to stop, restrain), the Old Frisian hemma (to hinder), the Middle Dutch and German hemmen (to hem in, stop, hinder), the ultimate root apparently kem (to compress) and it was concurrent with other, geographically distributed forms, hemo and haem.  Later, in the US there was briefly the variant haemo.  The same Germanic root yielded also the Old English hamm, common in place names where it means "enclosure, land hemmed in by water or high ground, land in a river bend".  In Middle English, hem also was a symbol of pride or ostentation.  The representation of the clearing of the throat, an imitative form, was first recorded in the 1520s.  The literary device, hem (and the now almost extinct haw) first recorded in 1786, haw being derived from hesitation.  The now common meaning of a border or fringe emerged in the late-fourteenth century, the variation of which “shut-in or confined”, dates from fifty years later.  Hem & hemming are nouns, verbs & adjectives, hemmer is a noun and hemmed is a verb; the noun plural is hems.

The importance of weighted hems

Chanel’s original bouclé cardigan jacket with weighted hems (1955, left), Audrey Hepburn's (1929–1993) take on the little black dress (1960, centre) and Bridget Bardot (b 1934) in Rome (1963, centre).

Coco Chanel (1883–1971) introduced weighted hems in 1955 as a feature of her bouclé cardigan jackets.  Paired usually with a straight skirt, and simple blouse made from fabric matching the jacket lining, its signature design feature was the weighted hem, engineered with a small gilded chain.  A weighted-hem’s purpose is to add weight so the jacket or skirt hangs close to the body and sits properly when worn.  It also serves as a counterbalance if a jacket has large, potentially heavy, buttons which can cause the garment to pull forward on the shoulders.  The slight weight helps any wrinkles to hang out, especially if, like linen, the fabric is prone to them.

The idea proved helpful for photographers and film-directors.  They'd long been used to fashioning all sorts of ad-hoc structural devices (wire, cardboard, tape etc) to make hair or clothing sit exactly where was needed for a shot and, if sufficiently rigid, such superstructure could even withstand all but string winds.  The rakish swish of Audrey Hepburn's LBD was achieved with internal supports which ensured the wind-blown look could be both perfected and maintained; it was the weighted hem writ large.  To have garments made with channels for a metal chain proved very handy, the chain able quickly to be swapped for something less flexible when a skirt or jacket needed to be maintained in position while photographs were taken.  In this case the weighted hems were used as a structural member, providing the rigidity which lent the garment the desired shape.

By the time Bridget Bardot was being photographed in Rome in the 1960s, for the adventurous, hem-lines were rising further above the knee so the functionality of the weighted hem assumed a new importance, particularly on windy days.  Marilyn Monroe (1926–1962) of course made famous the dramatic possibilities the combination of a well-directed draft and billowing fabric could achieve but that was a staged "wardrobe malfunction" with cameramen assembled.  Weighted hems were helpful in avoiding unplanned malfunctions.

Jaguar E-Type (XK-E), 1961.

Jaguar devoted a lot of time to testing the E-Type but one thing which slipped through the pre-production process was a buffeting the roadster’s fabric soft-top exhibited at certain speeds.  It seems an obvious thing not to notice but, like the Hubble telescope's mis-shaped mirror, it was just one of those things.  With the E-Type’s release date locked-in, it was too late to redesign the components.

Jaguar's quick and dirty solution was to weigh-down the affected area with a chain of lead-shot, sewed into the fabric in effectively the same way weighted hems are used in fashion.  Just over half an inch (14mm) diameter, the lead-shot bag was wrapped in a sisal cord with two twelve inch (300mm) draw-cords to permit it easily to be pulled through the pocket in the top.  It was such a rush-job Jaguar never allocated a part- number and it’s only ever been part of hood cloth assembly #BD20582.  Both the Series 1 (1961-1968) and Series 2 (1968-1971) E-Types had the lead-shot bag, even though the soft-top’s frame was re-designed for the later cars, the S1 having three bows, the S2, two and for the S2, the size of the shot-bag was reduced slightly to accommodate a change in placement, now beneath the centre strap between the bows.  Interestingly, despite presumably having at least slightly different aerodynamic properties, there seems to have been no difference in the buffeting suffered by the early cars with mohair fabric and the later which used Everflex.  The top on the Series 3 E-Type (1971-1974) was again re-designed, this time in a way which rendered the lead-shot chains unnecessary.

Lindsay Lohan in red bubble hem dress, attending the twentieth anniversary party for Uno de 50, Grand Palacio de Saldaña, Madrid, June 2016.  Uno de 50 translates as "One of 50", an allusion to the company producing its jewelry pieces in small runs of no more than fifty.

A "hem dress" is one with a hemline with an edge of the fabric turned under and stitched, usually with a fold or seam to prevent the fabric from unraveling and the technique can be applied to a variety of styles, including empire-line, sheath, shift, wrap, and maxi dresses, and can be made from any number of fabrics including cotton, silk, chiffon, or lace.  The length of a hem dress varies according to the design and can be adjusted to suit individual preferences.  Often added a flourish, hem can be worn on formal occasions, in work settings or as everyday wear.  Although not a technically challenging project for a seamstress, making a bubble dress into a hem dress does demand a thoughtful design because it's all too easy to end up with something just too busy above the knee and, the bubble line being inherently "bubbly", they can end up looking untidy and even unfinished.  Designers recommend that where possible, the hem detail should be matched with a similar duplication of horizontal lines at the waist and above the bustline.

Ivanka Trump (b 1981) critiques fashion sense of Narendra Modi (b 1950; Prime Minister of India since 2014), Global Entrepreneurship Summit, Hyderabad, India, 28 November 2017.

Wednesday, March 8, 2023

Effeminate

Effeminate (pronounced ih-fem-uh-nit (adjective) & ih-fem-uh-neyt (verb))

(1) Of the human male, not manly, having traits, tastes, habits etc, traditionally considered feminine (softness or delicacy et al).  Historically it was usually used as a slur and use is now probably offensive except as a self-descriptor).

(2) Characterized by excessive softness, delicacy, self-indulgence etc (often as “effeminate luxury”) and now rare although “feminized product packaging designed to appeal to women remains common).

(3) By extension, of objects, concepts, literature etc, lacking firmness or vigor.

(4) To make or become effeminate.

1350-1400: From the Middle English, from the Latin effēminātus (womanish, effeminate), past participle of effēmināre (to make into a woman), from fēmina (woman), the construct being e(x)- (out-) + fēmin(a) + + -ātus.  In Italian, it became the feminine plural of effeminate.  The ex- prefix was from the Middle English, from words borrowed from the Middle French, from the Latin ex (out of, from), from the primitive Indo-European eǵ- & eǵs- (out).  It was cognate with the Ancient Greek ἐξ (ex) (out of, from), the Transalpine Gaulish ex- (out), the Old Irish ess- (out), the Old Church Slavonic изъ (izŭ) (out) & the Russian из (iz) (from, out of).  The “x” in “ex-“, sometimes is elided before certain constants, reduced to e- (eg ejaculate).  The Latin suffix -ātus was from the Proto-Italic -ātos, from the primitive Indo-European -ehtos.  It’s regarded as a "pseudo-participle" and perhaps related to –tus although though similar formations in other Indo-European languages indicate it was distinct from it already in early Indo-European times.  It was cognate with the Proto-Slavic –atъ and the Proto-Germanic -ōdaz (the English form being -ed (having).  The feminine form was –āta, the neuter –ātum and it was used to form adjectives from nouns indicating the possession of a thing or a quality.  Effeminate is a verb & adjective, effeminateness, effeminatization & effemination are nouns, effeminatize, effeminated & effeminating are verbs and effeminately is an adverb; the noun plural is effeminations.

Role model for aspiring effeminatizers: Lindsay Lohan on the Jimmy Fallon Show with guests including Vinny Guadagnino, Barrett Wilbert Weed, Ashley Park, Kate Rockwell, Bob the Drag Queen, Dusty Ray Bottoms, Monique Heart, Aquaria, Trinity ‘The Tuck’ Taylor and Monet X Change, January 2019.

Effeminate is probably now a word to be avoided because it’s difficult to use except as a slur and even if that’s achieved, such is modern sensitivity it will anyway be interpreted thus.  For a similar effect, the recommended alternative is the early seventeenth century effete (the alternative spelling effœte is obsolete), from the Latin effētus (exhausted (literally “that has given birth).  It used to convey the meaning “substances exhausted, spent or worn-out” but that is obsolete and it now means (1) weak, decadent, lacking strength or vitality; feeble, powerless and (2) someone or something (usually speech or writing) affected, over-civilized or refined to the point of absurdity.

Ladies 45 piece tool kit in pink with pink carry-case.

The verbs feminized & effeminized are sometimes confused and there was a time when them was some overlap of meaning but conventions of use have emerged.  In fields such demographics feminized is used to describe aggregate outcomes such as a preponderance of females in an occupational sector while in botany & zoology it’s a technical term which refers to instances of plant or animal life tending more to the feminine, the latter often suspected to have been induced by human-induced    environmental factors.  In thus refers to physiology though in medicine it’s used in fields like sex & gender-reassignment where it’s applied also in behavioral therapy.  By contrast, effeminized is used only of appearance and behavior.  It’s thus possible to feminize products yet not effeminize them.  Hardware stores every Saint Valentine's Day benefit from this adaptation by capitalism when sales spike of tool kits with tools finished in pink or purple.  There is nothing inherently effeminate about a pink hammer and the irony is that while pink to appeal to women, it appears the buyers are almost exclusively men.

Dodge in 1955-1956 had advertising for men (horsepower, speed and V8 engines, left) and for women (everything pink, the paint, the rosebuds on the upholstery, the handbag, compact, lipstick case, cigarette case, comb, cigarette lighter, change purse, rain coat, rain-cap and umbrella, right).

Pink tool kits continue reliably to appear in prominent spots as Valentine's Day approaches and at least some women probably enjoy the joke.  However, more blatant attempts at feminized products seem no longer in vogue, the implication of condescension just too blatant.  Chrysler offered the La Femme package in 1955 and 1956 on certain Dodge models, a creation that was not a stylistic whim but a response to sociological changes in an unexpectedly affluent post-war US society in which women were found to be exerting a greater influence on the allocation of their family’s rising disposable income and of most interest to Chrysler was that those increasingly suburban families were buying second cars, women getting their own.  Adventurous color schemes were nothing new to Detroit, the cars of the art deco era noted for their combinations though things had been more subdued in the years immediately after World War II (1939-1945) but that changed with the exuberance of 1950s experimentation.  However, sales of the La Femme proved disappointing and within a decade, the manufacturers would work out what women wanted was better designs, cars which were smaller, more manageable and with practical features, not the existing lines “feminized” with pink finishes and accessories.

Actually looking good: Men in lingerie in the PRC.

The economic and political systems of the modern People’s Republic of China (PRC) has many differences from those familiar in the West but, as the ruling Chinese Communist Party (CCP) increasingly coming to realize, there are also many similarities, one of which is after when laws are passed and regulations promulgated, there are sometimes “unintended consequences”.  It was only in 2020 that the CCP’s Central Committee, having decided California’s most recent Republican governor, Arnold Schwarzenegger (b 1947; governor of California 2003-2011) was right in identifying “girly men” as a bit of a problem and cracked down, declaring a war on androgyny, young men deemed too effeminate banned from some very popular television programmes.  Aiming to eradicate the androgynous, the state’s regulator of television content ruled broadcasters must "resolutely put an end to sissy men and other abnormal aesthetics", telling them to ban from the screens the niang pao (derisive slang for girly men which translates literally as "girlie guns”).

That worked well and, presumably encouraged, the CCP decided to eliminate another form of deviance, women modeling underwear on on-line shopping live-streams.  The ban was imposed overnight and streamers were warned that any site flouting the ban would be shutdown, the regulator warning transgressors might be charged with disseminating obscene material.  The streamers of course complied because defying the rules of the CCP is a bad career move but they complied only with the letter of the law, the streams converting instantly to use male models, an appropriately androgynous group presumably in ample supply after being banned from the TV shows.  A classic unintended consequence, in attempting to remove one form of behavior for some reason thought deviant (women wearing women’s underwear), the CCP have created a whole new mass-market genre (men in women’s underwear).  In the West, men in women’s underwear is just another niche segment on the web but for the CCP, truly it must be a ghastly thought that not only has this decadence reached the Middle Kingdom, but it’s all their fault.

April 2022: A new painted portrait (left) of a (then) slimmed-down Kim Jong-un which analysts suggest was based on an earlier photograph (right).

The keen watchers of the endlessly entertaining antics of the DPRK’s (North Korea, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea) ruling family are a small industry; they don’t have a snappy title like “Kremlinologist” but in geopolitics it’s a genuine specialty.  Monitoring a dynasty that depends so much on symbolism and representational objects, one thing noted of late has been the increasing proliferation of new portraits of Kim Jong-un (Kim III, b 1982; Supreme Leader of DPRK since 2011).  The portraits began to appear in 2021, coinciding with celebrations of the Supreme Leader’s first decade of rule and their widespread deployment has been interpreted as one of the building blocks of his cult of personality.  In the decade after he assumed office, the only portraits usually seen were those of father and grandfather: Kim Il-sung (Kim I, 1912–1994; Great Leader of DPRK 1948-1994) & Kim Jong-il (Kim II, 1941-2011; Dear Leader of DPRK 1994-2011).

Everywhere one you look, the Great Leader and the Dear Leader are looking at you.  Given the number which exist and their size (there are also paired statutes, many paid for by the imposition of a "metals tax"), it would be a big job to add the Supreme Leader's portrait nationwide.  Still, the Kims have never been afraid of projects at a grand scale and ideologically, it may be unavoidable, the DPRK operating under a "three generations" (G3) hereditary system which (1) permits soldiers to wear the medals awarded to their fathers & grandfathers and (2) under the criminal justice system means "three generations of punishment" in which individuals found guilty of a crime are sent to the labor camps with their entire family, the subsequent two generations of the family born in the camp, remaining locked up for life.  This includes those convicted of “unspecified offences” all of whom, although never quite sure of the nature of their offence, are certainly guilty.  The Pyongyangologists are divided.  Some think it likely a third portrait may appear but that a variation of G3 will be established in that Kim Il-sung (already the DPRK's "Eternal President") will for G3 purposes be also the nation's "eternal grandfather", his portrait remaining forever while the other two will be the two most recent successors.  Thus there will never be more than three portraits.  Others think it's too early and it may be a third will be added only when (God forbid) the Supreme Leader dies.   

Interestingly, at one of the events conducted under a portrait of the Supreme Leader, a forty-minute long televised series of speeches marking the tenth anniversary of him becoming first secretary of the Workers’ Party of Korea (WPK), in addition to being praised for (1) leading the DPRK through the worst hardships, (2) completing the project of acquiring nuclear weapons and (3) ending the history of threats of nuclear war or invasion by imperialists, he was referred with a previously unknown title: Great Guardian.  Whether that’s of any significance isn’t clear but after the death of his father, Kim Jong-un was briefly known as the “Great Successor” so title changes in the third generation of the dynasty are not unknown.  Among the Pyongyangologists, there’s no consensus about whether the authorities are likely to add the portrait to all or any of the thousands of pairs featuring the Great Leader and the Dear Leader.  Such a move would clearly place the Supreme Leader on the same level as his late predecessors and currently, no painted portraits or statues of Kim Jong-un are known to be displayed in the country and artists are not permitted to paint his likeness.

Among those looking forward to a new series of portraits of the Supreme Leader are the meme-makers who found the contours of his soft, fleshy features made him ideally suited to effeminatization.  At top left is an official photograph issued by DPRK Foreign Ministry, the other five are digitally modified. 

Typology

Typology (pronounced tahy-pol-uh-jee)

(1) The doctrine or study of types or pre-figurative symbols.

(2) A systematic classification or study of types and the systematic classification of the types of something according to their common characteristics.

(3) In linguistics, the study and classification of languages according to structural features, especially patterns of phonology, morphology, and syntax, without reference to their histories.

(4) In archaeology, the result of the classification of things according to their characteristics.

(5) In Biblical scholarship, the study of symbolic representation, particularly the origin and meaning of Scripture types.

(6) In theology, the doctrine or study of types or of the correspondence between them and the realities which they typify.

1835–1845:  A compound word, the construct being typo- + -logy.  The Middle English type (symbol, figure, emblem) was from the Latin typus, from the Ancient Greek τύπος (túpos) (mark, impression, type), from τύπτω (túptō) (I strike, beat).  The –ology suffix was also a construct, built from -o- (an interconsonantal vowel) + -logy.  The English -logy suffix originates with loanwords from the Greek, usually via Latin and French, where the suffix (-λογία) is an integral part of the word loaned such as astrology from astrologia, the practice since the sixteenth century.  The French -logie is a continuation of the Latin -logia, ultimately from the Ancient Greek -λογία (-logía).  In Greek, the suffix is an -ία (-ía) abstract from λόγος (logos) (account, explanation, narrative), itself a verbal noun from λέγω (légō) (I say, speak, converse, tell a story).  In English, the suffix has long been productive, especially to form the names of scientific disciplines, analogous to names of disciplines loaned from the Latin, such as geology from geologia.  Original compositions of terms with no precedent in Greek or Latin become common in the late eighteenth century, sometimes imitating French or German templates; insectology (after the French insectologie (1766) and terminology after German terminologie (1801).  From the nineteenth century, the suffix was applied to words with no Greek or Latin origin, such as undergroundology (1820) and hatology (1837).  In the twentieth century, it began liberally to be applied to for amusing yet useful words (such as Kremlinology) and sometime satirically (garbageology, burgerology, footballology et al).  Typology & typologist are nouns and typological & typologic are adjectives; the noun plural is typologies.

The Myers-Briggs Type Indicator (MBTI)

In pop-psychology, one of the most popular tests is the so-called "16 Personalities Test", a multi-choice exercise in typology which determines one’s place in the sixteen.  The model is that of the original Myers-Briggs Type Indicator (MBTI) which uses a combination of four letters to represent different personality types.  The four letters are drawn from:

(E) Extraversion: How much one focuses on the outer world versus inner world.

(I) Introversion: How much one focuses on the inner world vs. outer world.

(S) Sensing: How one processes information through the senses and concrete experience.

(N) Intuition: How one processes information through patterns and possibilities.

(T) Thinking: How one makes decisions based on objective analysis and logic.

(F) Feeling: How one makes decisions based on subjective values and emotions.

(J) Judging: How one prefers a structured, organized, and planned lifestyle.

(P) Perceiving: How one prefers a flexible, adaptable, and spontaneous lifestyle.

Bolted on to the four letter string is an additional –A or –T.  The (-A) applies to those who are Assertive Advocates who see things through a filter that values humanity and want to have people (in limited introverted doses) in their lives.  The (-T) people are Turbulent Advocates who are more likely to go beyond merely wanting people in their lives.

Lindsay Lohan, suspected ESFP

Most sites which list celebrities as illustrative examples of the type categorize Lindsay Lohan as ESFP (Entertainer) although some also put her in the INFJ (advocate) list and variation between tests is not unusual because a single different answer can change the allocation.  For an actor to be found to be "an entertainer" is obviously uncontroversial, the interest presumably in the appended -A or -T which would depend on variations in the answers.  The test has always been popular although the profession doesn’t regard as serious science and its origin actually was a reaction by someone who though the orthodox scientific approaches were needlessly complex.  In its original form it was first published in 1944 and has been often since revised.  Pseudoscience or not, it’s great fun and there are worse ways of deciding whether or not to marry one’s boyfriend.  Grouped into four categories, the sixteen types are:

Analysts

(1) Architect (INTJ-A / INTJ-T): Imaginative and strategic thinkers, with a plan for everything.

(2) Logician (INTP-A / INTP-T): Innovative inventors with an unquenchable thirst for knowledge.

(3) Commander (ENTJ-A / ENTJ-T): Bold, imaginative and strong-willed leaders, always finding a way – or making one.

(4) Debater (ENTP-A / ENTP-T): Smart and curious thinkers who cannot resist an intellectual challenge.

Diplomats

(5) Advocate (INFJ-A / INFJ-T): Quiet and mystical, yet very inspiring and tireless idealists.

(6) Mediator (INFP-A / INFP-T): Poetic, kind and altruistic people, always eager to help a good cause.

(7) Protagonist (ENFJ-A / ENFJ-T): Charismatic and inspiring leaders, able to mesmerize their listeners.

(8) Campaigner (ENFP-A / ENFP-T): Enthusiastic, creative and sociable free spirits, who can always find a reason to smile.

Sentinels

(9) Logistician (ISTJ-A / ISTJ-T): Practical and fact-minded individuals, whose reliability cannot be doubted.

(10) Defender (ISFJ-A / ISFJ-T): Very dedicated and warm protectors, always ready to defend their loved ones.

(11) Executive (ESTJ-A / ESTJ-T): Excellent administrators, unsurpassed at managing things – or people.

(12) Consul (ESFJ-A / ESFJ-T): Extraordinarily caring, social and popular people, always eager to help.

Explorers

(13) Virtuoso (ISTP-A / ISTP-T): Bold and practical experimenters, masters of all kinds of tools.

(14) Adventurer (ISFP-A / ISFP-T): Flexible and charming artists, always ready to explore and experience something new.

(15) Entrepreneur (ESTP-A / ESTP-T): Smart, energetic and very perceptive people, who truly enjoy living on the edge.

(16) Entertainer (ESFP-A / ESFP-T): Spontaneous, energetic and enthusiastic people – life is never boring around them.

The difference between between Typology and Allegory in Biblical scholarship

Typology is an approach to the interpretation of the Scriptures found in the New Testament itself and in the writings of the early Church, which sees certain people and events in the Old Testament (Types) as foreshadowing things fulfilled in the New Testament (Antitypes). This is related to, but distinct from, allegory.  The opinions of those in the early Church were never monolithic, the view being that Scripture had different levels of meaning which included the literal or historical sense of the text, but could also have an allegorical, or a typological meaning.  A text also has a moral sense and an anagogical or mystical sense. That a text had an allegorical or typological meaning did not negate the historical sense, it being just another way of understanding the text.

Typology stresses the connection between actual persons, events, places, and institutions of the Old Testament, and their corresponding reality in the New Testament which they foreshadowed.  Moses the Lawgiver foreshadows Christ, the ultimate Lawgiver.  Aaron, the high priest, foreshadows Christ, the ultimate High Priest.  Manna, which fed the people in the wilderness foreshadows the Christ the Heavenly Bread (the Eucharist), which provides ultimate spiritual nourishment.  The classic example is probably the The Burning Bush which foreshadows the Theotokos.  In the book of Exodus, God calls Moses on Mount Horeb from the midst of a bush which "was burning, yet it was not consumed".  The Church sees the Unburnt Bush on Horeb as a type of the Most Holy Theotokos, who gave birth to Christ while still while remaining a virgin.

Allegory finds hidden or symbolic meaning in the Old Testament, which is inherent in text and does not depend on a future historical fulfillment; for example, I Corinthians 9:8-10 sees the law forbidding the muzzling of an ox while it treads the corn as having the hidden meaning that a minister of the Gospel should be supported by the people he ministers to.  The Song of Solomon is also often interpreted as an allegory of God (the Lover), and His love for His people (the beloved). The allegorical approach also often sees multiple correspondences in a given narrative which illustrate some point. For example, St Paul explicitly uses allegory in Galatians 4, in which he sees the child of the slave woman (Hagar) as representing those under the Law, while the child of the free woman (Sarah) as representing those under the New Covenant, and the casting out of Hagar and Ishmael as representing the inferiority of the Old Covenant to the New (Galatians 4:21-31).

Tuesday, March 7, 2023

Shuttle

Shuttle (pronounced shuht-l)

(1) In weaving, a device in a loom for passing or shooting the weft thread through the shed from one side of the web to the other, usually consisting of a boat-shaped piece of wood containing a bobbin on which the weft thread is wound (ie the tool which carries the woof back and forth (shuttling) between the warp threads on a loom).

(2) In a sewing machine, the sliding container (thread-holder) that carries the lower thread through a loop of the upper thread to make a lock-stitch.

(3) In transport, a public conveyance (bus, train, ferry, car, limousine aircraft), that travels back and forth at regular intervals over a particular route, especially a short route or one connecting two transportation systems; the service provided by such vehicles.

(4) In badminton, as shuttlecock, the lightweight object, built with a weighted (usually rubber-covered) semi-spherical nose attached to a conical construction (historically of feathers but now usually synthetic) and used as a ball is used in other racquet games. Shuttlecock was also once widely used as the name of the game but this is now rare.

(5) As space shuttle, vehicle designed to transport people & cargo between Earth and outer-space, designed explicitly re-use with a short turn-around between missions (often with initial capital letters).  The term shuttlecraft is the generic alternative, “space shuttle” most associated with the US vehicle (1981-2011).

(6) To cause (someone or something) to move back and forth by or as if by a shuttle, often in the form “shuttling”.

(7) Any device which repeatedly moves back and forth between two positions, either transporting something or transferring energy between those points.

(8) In electrical engineering, as shuttle armature, a H-shaped armature in the shape of an elongated shuttle with wires running longitudinally in grooves, used in small electrical generators or motors, having a single coil wound upon a the bobbin, the latter usually formed in soft iron.

(9) In diplomacy, as shuttle diplomacy, the practice of a diplomat from a third country shuttling between two others countries to conduct negotiations, the two protagonists declining directly to meet.

Pre 900: Shuttle was a merge from two sources. From (1) the Middle English shutel, shotel, schetel, schettell, schyttyl & scutel (bar; bolt), from the Old English sċyttel & sċutel (bar; bolt), the notion being shut + -le.  Shut was from the Middle English shutten & shetten, from the Old English scyttan (to cause rapid movement, shoot a bolt, shut, bolt), from the Proto-Germanic skutjaną & skuttijaną (to bar, to bolt), from the Proto-Germanic skuttą & skuttjō (bar, bolt, shed), from the primitive Indo-European skewd & kewd- (to drive, fall upon, rush). The -le suffix was from the Middle English -elen, -len & -lien, from the Old English -lian (the frequentative verbal suffix), from the Proto-Germanic -lōną (the frequentative verbal suffix) and was cognate with the West Frisian -elje, the Dutch -elen, the German -eln, the Danish -le, the Swedish -la and the Icelandic -la.  It was used as a frequentative suffix of verbs, indicating repetition or continuousness.  From (2) the Middle English shitel (missile; a weaver's instrument), shutel, schetil, shotil, shetel, schootyll, shutyll, schytle & scytyl (missile; projectile; spear), from the Old English sċytel, sċutel (dart, arrow) (related to the Middle High German schüzzel and the Swedish skyttel), from the Proto-Germanic skutilaz, (related to the Middle High German schüzzel and the Swedish skyttel) and cognate with the Old Norse skutill (harpoon), the idea akin to both shut & shoot.  Shuttle is a noun, verb & adjective, shuttling is a noun & verb and shuttled and shuttles are verbs; the noun plural is shuttles.  The adjectival form shuttle-like is more common than the rare shuttlesque (which is listed as non-standard by the few sources to acknowledge its dubious existence).

A Lindsay Lohan advertising mural on the back of one of the airport shuttle buses run by Milan Malpensa International Airport in northern Italy.

The original sense in English is long obsolete, supplanted by the senses gained from the weaving instrument, so called since 1338 on the notion of it being “shot backwards and forwards” across the threads.  The transitive sense (move something rapidly to and fro) was documented from the 1540s, the same idea attached to the shuttle services in transport, first used in 1895 (although the intransitive sense of “go or move backward and forward like a shuttle” had been in use by at least 1843) in early versions of what would come to be known as intra-urban “rapid transit systems” (RTS), the one train that runs back and forth on the single line between fixed destinations (often with intermediate stops).  This was picked up by ferry services in 1930, air routes in 1942, space travel in 1960 (in science fiction) and actual space vehicles in 1969.  Shuttle in the sense it evolved in English is used in many languages but a separate development was the naming of the weaving instrument based on its resemblance to a boat (the Latin navicula, the French navette and the German Weberschiff).  The noun shuttlecock dates from the 1570s, the “shuttle” element from it being propelled backwards and forwards over a net and the “cock” an allusion to the attached anti-aerodynamic construction (originally of feathers) which resembled a male bird's plume of tail feathers.  The term Shuttle diplomacy came into use in the 1970s thanks to tireless self-promotion by Dr Henry Kissinger although the practice (of “good offices”) dates back centuries.

The Abbotsleigh class of 2020 pondering time flying faster than a weaver’s shuttle.

The motto of the Sydney girl’s school Abbotsleigh is tempus celerius radio fugit (Time flies faster than a weaver's shuttle), the idea behind that said to be: “As the shuttle flies a pattern is woven, with the threads being the people, buildings and events. The pattern is Abbotsleigh as it continues to grow in complexity and richness each year”.  Quite whether a weaver’s shuttle (said by some detractors to have been chosen as symbolic of the "proper" place of women being in a state of domestic servitude for the convenience of men) is appropriate for a girls’ school in the twenty-first century has been debated.  The motto came from the family crest of Marian Clarke (1853-1933), Abbotsleigh’s first headmistress (principle) and was maintained using the family’s grammatically dubious form tempus fugit radio celerity until 1924 when the correct syntax was substituted.  It’s an urban myth the mistake was permitted to stand until 1924 as a mark of respect while Ms Clarke was alive; she lived a decade odd after the change although the family’s heraldry was apparently never corrected.

The US (left) and USSR (centre) space shuttles compared with a badminton shuttlecock (right).  The shuttlecock is rendered in a larger scale than the shuttles.

The US Space Shuttle was operated by the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) between 1981-2011 as the low Earth orbital vehicle which was the platform for its Space Transportation System (STS).  The plans, based on ideas first explored in science fiction a decade earlier, for a (mostly) reusable spacecraft system were first laid down in 1969 and despite intermittent funding, test flights were first undertaken in 1981.  Five Space Shuttles were eventually built to completion and between 1981-2011, there were over a hundred missions.  The stresses imposed on the craft were considerable which meant both the mission turn-arounds were never as rapid as had been hoped and the extent to which components could be reused had to be revised.  There was controversy too about the failures of NASA’s procedures which resulted in the two accidents in which all seven crew aboard each shuttle were killed.  The programme was retired in 2011.

Lindsay Lohan getting off the NAPA Shuttle, The Parent Trap (1998).  The term "to disembark" was borrowed from nautical use and of late "to deplane" has entered English which seems unnecessary but the companion "to disemplane" was more absurd still; real people continue to "get on" and "get off" aircraft.

The Soviet Union’s space shuttle, construction of which began in 1980, unsurprisingly, was visually very similar to the US vehicle, there being only so many ways optimally to do these things.  The USSR’s effort was the Буран (Buran) (Snowstorm or Blizzard), the craft sharing the designation with the Soviet spaceplane project and its spaceships, known as "Buran-class orbiters".  Although more than a dozen frames were laid down, few were ever completed to be flight-ready and the Buran’s only flight was an un-crewed orbital mission in 1988 which was successful.  The deteriorating economic and political situation in the Soviet Union meant the programme stalled and in 1993 it was abandoned by the new Russian government.  The striking similarity between the profile of the US & Soviet space shuttles and a badminton shuttlecock is coincidental but not unrelated.  The space craft are designed as aerodynamic platforms because, although not of relevance in the vacuum of space, they did have to operate as aircraft while operating in Earth’s atmosphere whereas the shuttlecock is designed deliberately as an anti-aerodynamic shape.  The shuttle’s shape was dictated by the need to maximize performance whereas a shuttlecock is intentionally inefficient, the shape maximizing air-resistance (drag) so it slows in flight.

Henry Kissinger, shuttling between dinner companions (left to right), Dolly Parton (b 1946), Diane von Furstenberg (b 1946), Diana, Princess of Wales (1961-1997) and Carla Bruni (b 1967).

The term shuttle diplomacy describes the process in which a mediator travels repeatedly between two or more parties involved in a conflict or negotiation, in circumstances where the protagonists are unable or unwilling to meet.  Ostensibly, the purpose of shuttle diplomacy is to facilitate communication between the parties and reach a resolution of the dispute(s) but, being inherently political, it can be used for other, less laudable goals.  The practice, if not the term has a long history, instances noted from antiquity and the Holy Roman Empire was renowned for the neutral diplomats who would travel back and forth between kings, princes, dukes and cardinals.  During both the Conference of Vienna (1814-1815) and the Paris Peace Conference (1919-1920) the negotiations were marked by intransigent politicians sitting in rooms while a (notionally) disinterested notable shuttled between them, giving and taking until acquiescence was extracted.  A celebrated example of the process played out between 1939-1940 when Swedish businessman Birger Dahlerus (1891-1957) played a quixotic role as amateur diplomat, shuttling between London and Berlin in what proved a doomed attempt to avoid war.  It was for years seen as something romantic (if misguided) and it was only years later when the UK Foreign Office’s papers on the matter were made available the extent of the Swede’s conflicts of interest were revealed.

Richard Nixon meets Henry Kissinger.

The term entered the language in 1973 when Dr Henry Kissinger (1923-2023; US national security advisor 1969-1975 & secretary of state 1937-1977) used it to refer to his efforts to negotiate an end to the Yom Kippur War between Israel and its Arab neighbors.  Kissinger shuttled between Tel Aviv, Cairo and other Middle Eastern capitals in an attempt to broker a ceasefire and improve diplomatic relations, enjoying some success, achieving a bilateral peace between Egypt and Israel as well as a number of disengagement agreements.  Some historians and foreign policy scholars however, while acknowledging what was achieved, have suggested that it was the Kissinger’s approach to the region in the years leading up to the war which contributed to the outbreak of hostilities.

Kissinger has also been criticized on the basis that shuttle diplomacy was never anything more than him playing a game of realpolitik on a multi-dimensional chessboard rather than an attempt to imagine a regional architecture which could produce a comprehensive peace plan in the Middle East, his emphasis on securing something in the interest of the US (a treaty between Egypt and Israel) meaning the vital issue of Palestine and its potential to assist in securing long-term peace in the region was not just neglected but ignored.  Cynics, noting his academic background and research interests, compared his shuttle diplomacy with the travels of emissaries in the Holy Roman Empire who would travel between the Holy See, palaces and chancelleries variously to reassure the troubled, sooth hurt feelings and cajole the diffident.  There was also the idea of Henry the self-promoting celebrity who could bring peace to Vietnam and Nixon to China, the political wizard who solved problems as they arose.  Certainly, the circumstances in which Kissinger was able to use shuttle diplomacy as a political narrative were unique.  He’d first undermined and then replaced William Rogers (1913–2001; US secretary of state 1969-1973) as secretary of state and even before becoming virtually the last major figure still standing from Richard Nixon’s (1913-1994; US president 1969-1974) first term as the Watergate affair took its toll, essentially took personal control of the direction of US foreign policy.  As he put it “one of the more cruel torments of Nixon’s Watergate purgatory was my emergence as the preeminent figure in foreign policy”.

So, opportunistic his initiatives may have been but there were after all real problems to be solved and it seems unfair to criticize Kissinger for doing what he did rather than constructing some counter-factual grand design which might have created a permanent, settled peace in the Middle East.  However, among realists (and Kissinger was dean of the school), even then there were few who believed such a thing was any longer possible possible (certainly since the conclusion of the six-day war in 1967) and Kissinger certainly achieved something and to do that it’s necessary to understand there are some problems which really can only endlessly be managed and never solved.  Some problems are insoluble, something lost on many US presidents infected more than most by the diminishing but still real feelings of optimism and exceptionalism that have for centuries characterized the American national character.  Until he met Elizabeth Holmes (b 1984; CEO of US biotech company Theranos 2003-2018), nothing fooled Henry.

Mistress

Mistress (pronounced mis-tris)

(1) A woman who has authority, control, or power, especially the female head of a household, institution, or other establishment; a woman employing, or in authority over, servants or attendants.

(2) A female owner of an animal or formerly, a slave.

(3) A woman who has the power of controlling or disposing of something at her own pleasure; the companion term to master (sometimes initial capital letter).

(4) A woman who has a continuing, extramarital sexual relationship with one man, especially a man who, in return for a continuing (and hopefully exclusive) liaison, provides her with financial support.

(5) A senior female schoolteacher; a schoolmistress, a unique New Zealand form of which was Senior Assistant Mistress (SAM), the highest teaching position (ranking below assistant principle (or headmaster)) available to women until the mid-1970s.

(6) A term of address in former use and corresponding to Mrs, Miss, or Ms (should be with initial capital letter but often misused).

(7) A dialectical word for sweetheart (archaic).

(8) The term for a woman who specializes in the niche BDSM (a abbrevation traditionally of "bondage, discipline & sadism masochism" (in modern use dominance & submission sometimes also added or substituted) market, female equivalent of a master in the same context; a dominatrix.

(9) A married woman; a wife (archaic Scots dialectal form).

(10) A title (either official or courtesy) granted to certain positions in royal households or religious orders (eg Mistress of the RobesMistress of the Cloisters et al).

(11) In the games of bowls, the jack (obsolete).  

1275–1325: From the Middle English maistresse from the Old & Middle French maistresse (maîtresse in modern French), feminine of  maistre (master), from the Latin magister (chief, head, director, teacher) the construct being maistre (master) + -esse or –ess (the suffix which denotes a female form of otherwise male nouns denoting beings or persons).  In yet another example of the patriarchal domination of language, when a woman is said to have acquired complete knowledge of or skill in something, she’s said to have “mastered” the topic.  Mistress is a noun and verb, mistressship (or mistress-ship), mistresspiece,  mistresshood & mistressdom are nouns, mistressing is a verb and mistressly is an adjective; the noun plural is mistresses.  The noun plural mistresses has been used by many and the pragmatic advice is mistresses should be enjoyed sequentially rather than concurrently.  That said, plenty who have had the odd mistress might reflect things would have been better had they followed the advice of the English poet Arthur Hugh Clough (1819–1861), published in The Latest Decalogue (1862):  Do not adultery commit; Advantage rarely comes of it.

In English, the original meaning (circa 1300) was "a female teacher, governess; supervisor of novices in a convent", reflecting the senses in the Old French maistresse although in the Old French it could be used to mean also "lover" & "housekeeper" (though there would have been some overlap in those roles).  The notion of a mistress being a "a woman who employs others or has authority over a household and servants" developed in the early fifteenth century, the use to describe "a woman who has mastered an art or branch of study" emerging some decades later.  The familiar modern sense of "a kept woman maintained by a married man" dates from the early fifteenth century and, perhaps surprisingly, by the mid-1600s it was used as a polite form of address to a woman, a extension presumably of a sense other than adulterous women.  The meaning "woman who is beloved and courted, one who has command over a lover's heart" is from the turn of the fifteen century.

Thought crime

Associated Press (AP) tweeted in early May 2020 it would no longer use the term “mistress” to describe adulterous women, noting it thought the word “archaic and sexist”, preferring the alternatives “companion” or “lover”, adding the AP Stylebook had been updated to include this proscription among some two-hundred changes.  The AP Stylebook has for generations been a standard reference for many news organizations, often referred to by working journalists as the “style bible” and widely used in journalism courses.

Barnaby reflects: Vikki Campion (b 1985) & Barnaby Joyce (b 1967; thrice deputy prime-minister of Australia 2016-2022).

Linguistically, AP’s attempt to avoid hurting the feelings of adulterers isn’t a great deal of help, banning as it does a word with a precise meaning, well-understood for centuries, replacing it with terms ambiguous or misleading; there’s no other single word (or term of convenient brevity) which conveys the same meaning of “mistress” in the sense which so disturbs AP.  The revisions make much of the need to adopt “gender-neutral language”, another “inclusive” transformation being the pursuit of criminals at large will no longer be “manhunts” but rather “searches”, a further example of dilution of meaning, an unfortunate trend for a news organization to pursue.  AP are correct that “mistress” is both “loaded” and “gendered” given there’s no similarly opprobrious term for adulterous men but the word is not archaic; archaic words are those now rare to the point of being no longer in general use and “mistress” has hardly suffered that fate.  AP’s agenda appears to be the creation of doctrinaire neutrality and are constructing their own newspeak to save its readers from their own thought crime.

Ashley Horn before (left) & after (centre) and Lindsay Lohan (right).

Ashley Horn (b 1995) is Lindsay Lohan's half sister, her father being Michael Lohan (b 1969), her mother, Kristi Kaufmann Horn (b 1963), a Montana massage therapist who briefly was Michael Lohan's mistress.  In 2013 it was reported by In Touch Magazine (a famously reliable source) that Ms Horn had paid some US$25,000 on five rounds of cosmetic surgery with the intention of more closely resembling her older half-sister.  As detailed by Ms Horn, she had "...rhinoplasty, a bit of refinement underneath my cheeks and jawline, some fat injected into my chin and some fat injected into my upper cheeks", the specific instruction being to emulate Lindsay Lohan's look in her late teen-age years, Ms Horn's age at the time.